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Dodge Pickup Brake Job

Started by Slabs, May 11, 2006, 06:34:00 PM

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Slabs

Hey Y'all

Me and CANTHOOK are trying to do a brake and (damaged) rotor job on his 93' 250 Dodge with Cummins Diesel.  The original rotor had a minimum thickness of 1.465 " and a casting # of 210299-C.  The Rotor that the local parts place came up with is a new unit with a minimum thickness of 1.250 " and an "out-of-box" thickness of 1.292" and a casting # of 210324-C.

I know that the caliper would probably compensate for the thinner rotor with a little extra fluid but the question remains as to whether the replacement is the correct one.

Any help and suggestions would be appreciated.

Slabs & CANTHOOK
Slabs  : Offloader, slab and sawdust Mexican, mill mechanic and electrician, general flunky.  Woodshop, metal woorking shop and electronics shop.

dancan

here in nova scotia things rust so bad and fast that we never get to see what a casting number looks like let alone minimum thickness  :D
not all aftermarket parts are created equal you should check to see if the have a listing for different brake options ( heavy duty/light duty and the year before and after)  check with another parts supplier or the dealer .
using a thinner rotor than the manufacturers specs will as a rule cause grief or another brake job sooner than later so if you save money now with the thinner part you may pay again.
if you have good salvage yards in your area check with them , a good machined rotor that is within spec is better than to thin to start .

ScottAR

4x4 or 4x2?  If I think of it I'll crack the catalog at work tomorrow... 

Edit:  I got on the my co. website and it shows 4 different axles.  That could have somthing to do with it.  4500lb, 4000lb, and 3500 or 3800lb axles. 
Some companies consolidate parts into one #.

The hub casting # seems to be the tell.  The VIN won't hurt either at the parts store.   
Scott
"There is much that I need to do, even more that I want to do, and even less that I can do."
[Magicman]

Bill

I guess what you're really asking is whether the thickness is necessary. I was always taught that the thickness also related to how well the rotor ( any metal ) will stand up to heat and heat dissipation. Kinda like thinner rotors were for used for lighter vehicles. So maybe your new rotor might hold up around town but going down hill with a heavy load .  .  .   I only had brakes over heat on me once - down hill in the Sierra Nevadas the pedal went to the floor. Sure was glad there was that runaway lane that I sat in for quite some time before I even tried the brakes again standing still. In my case I just cooked the brake fluid - don't rightly know what would happen if you "cooked" a thin rotor . I've seen night time shots of race cars with red hot rotors - kinda cool glowing and all .

If it were me I'd go for the HD replacement.

Burlkraft

I had a 3/4 ton Dodge with a Cummins and put 60,000 miles on it and 5 sets of front brakes. That thing ate rotors like they were Gritz :D :D :D :D

If you can find a heavier rotor I would go with that. It doesn't seem like a lot, but the further you extend the cups in the calipers the harder it is on them. If you could get some titanium rotors with carbon fiber pads. like race cars use they might hold up better, but you could probablly buy 10 regular rotors for what 2 would cost :o :o :o
Why not just 1 pain free day?

scsmith42

Slabs, I think that you've got the wrong replacement rotor, and ought to swap it out. 
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

rebocardo

> question remains as to whether the replacement is the correct one.

No, it is not. I had problems doing my boss's Dodge Cummings (5.9?) DRW front rotors. You need the bigger rotors.

Slabs

Waaal now y'all, I just wanted to tell you that the problem has been solved by gettin the parts house troop what knowed what he was lookin at on the funny little computer screen. 

Scott  You were right.  They didn't give us the right rotor.  We finally got a clerk/computer operator that knew what to do in the button-pushing arena and found out that "we've tried two of the possibilities in stock and the third one crosses to the casting number on the originial".  Sure nuff,  It fits, the numbers on the replacement match the original and the old Dodge is rollin with good brakes and enough safety to take care of even CANTHOOK.

Miracles happen every day.

Thank all of you for your inputs and insights about replacement parts especially the "heavy duty" suggestions.  When dragging a trailer full of loblolly pine logs, one needs the best breaking available.

Again, thanks to all who responded and a best to you in your projects some of whom I may be able to help with.

Slabs
Slabs  : Offloader, slab and sawdust Mexican, mill mechanic and electrician, general flunky.  Woodshop, metal woorking shop and electronics shop.

scsmith42

QuoteScott  You were right.

Now if I could just get my wife trained to say that...   :D  :D  :D
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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