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drying slabs

Started by xlogger, April 05, 2015, 07:39:44 AM

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xlogger

I getting into cutting more live edge slabs lately. As of now I've not started on a kiln and just air drying them. At what point can I take them off stickers and stand them up for people to see them. I know that they will not be dried enough but some go faster than they are dry. Mostly cedar, maple, oak, ash and cherry for now.
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln

Seaman

XL,   EVERYTHING I have stood up before dry kiln , for a long period ( weeks) has cupped a little.  I do not have a lot of experience tho, some on here can add more I am sure.

FRank
Lucas dedicated slabber
Woodmizer LT40HD
John Deere 5310 W/ FEL
Semper Fi

WDH

It would be best if they were below 30% moisture content. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Ga_Boy

General rule of thumb for air drying thick material is 1 year per inch of thickness.  Use as much weight as you can to keep it flat. 

Reminder: moisture meters are not accurate above the 25-30% moisture content range.  This means you will have to have a sample for each species that you are drying and will need to weigh each sample and use the weight to calculate moisture content.  The formula for this process is in the USDA books.



10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

beenthere

Forumla is (Wet weight - dry weight) / dry weight = MC % / 100

So the difference in weights divided by the dry weight times 100 equals the moisture content.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

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