poplar wood in va

[Mitchell]

Hey I'm new to this forum,does anybody tell me about using poplar for board and batten,and what would be a good width. Thinking 1x6.

[DR Buck]

Poplar makes great b&b.    I cut it a lot for customers .   You'll be ok with most trees up to 8".    Any wider you get cupping.   Make sure you only nail center of boards if you are hanging green.  Otherwise it will split as it dries.


Take some time and update your profile to identify your location.

[samandothers]

I have cut some 1x10 with 1x3 baton.  I center screwed it.  It is not all up yet and what is up is under a shed roof.  It has not been up a year yet but I let it dry about a year before I put it up.  That was not intentional timing but just the way it worked out.  So far so good.  

[SawyerTed]

+1 on poplar for board and batten.  8" is ideal.  Many old log cabins have poplar logs in them.  As long as the poplar isn't in ground contact it will last a long time.

[shenandoahsawmill]

I put 12" wide poplar boards and 3" wide battens on my house 25 years ago. Most of it is holding up well except at the bottom corners of window frames where water accumulates and on a brick ledge where the bottom of the boards rest on the top of the bricks. I think proper flashing  and allowing a good "drip edge" would have prevented this rot. The problem is the worst on the north (shady) side of the house.

[thecfarm]

Mitchell,welcome to the forum.
Got a sawmill?

[reswire]

My Grandfather built barns, sheds in Southern Maryland for decades (1920's through 70's).  The most popular wood to use for siding was poplar.  There are hundreds of barns still standing there, most with poplar that has been hanging for 30+ years.  I'm not saying the boards are in pristine shape, but most still doing their job after all those years.  One rule he always told me, was to never use poplar horizontally, such as fence boards or ledge boards.  Always hang poplar vertically, with the knots "tear drop down", meaning the rounded side up, and the point of the grain down.  I don't recall them nailing center and then going back to nail sides.  I suppose doing so would require two trips, not something a builder would find profitable.  Mostly all sills and framing was done with White oak, foundations with brick or concrete, dried cedar heartwood on really old barns can be found.  When buildings were "pegged", they would use dried White oak pegs, and green White Oak lumber for the sills/posts.  The green posts would shrink and dry around the hardened peg, making an ultra tight bond that would never come apart...

[Mitchell]

+1 on poplar for board and batten.  8" is ideal.  Many old log cabins have poplar logs in them.  As long as the poplar isn't in ground contact it will last a long time.

Thanks for info Sawyer Ted, thought about building a cabin, and put footers in and build it up off the ground. Have enough clearance off ground for all water pipes and what ever else I need. My dad and I used to cover ground under houses to keep most moisture from coming up. Its simple but it works! I've been a carpenter for 30 years until a couple injuries and gout set in.

[Mitchell]

Mitchell,welcome to the forum.
Got a sawmill?

Nope But I know a few around here but I'd like to have one for sure, always wanted one but had to many divorces know what I mean?lol