T&G, Woodmaster or Router table?

[OneWithWood]

I need to make a few thousand feet of tongue & groove out of 4/4 tulip and 4/4 aspen for my basement remodel project.  I have the necessary moulding knives for my Woodmaster 718 and a jig I made for another project (not t&G) to support the boards.  I also have a Jessem routing table with a 3hp router.

The aspen will be used for the ceiling.  The tulip will be used for the walls and put up at a 45° angle. The basement currently has drywall that is coming out. I would rather not have to put in all the blocking it would take to run the tulip vertically and a horizontal orientation just seems boring.

I have never attempted t&g so I would appreciate any pointers anyone could provide.  The same goes for installing it. 

[pineywoods]

I have a woodmaster 718. Never had much luck making tongue and groove on it. Two problems...Feed problems, 3/4 inch is not much for feed rollers to grip on, you definitely need the slick plastic bed overlay. The biggest problem is accuracy. Even with the best of jigs, the feed stock gonna flop around a bit, can't keep the groove or tongue centered. I bought a used 3 hp shaper which works just fine, as would a good router table. A power feeder makes a big difference.

[bugdust]

I too have the 718 model and have had fairly good luck with making T&G. I just bought a Bosch T&G cutter for the shaper w/ 3 HP router and so far has proven better and faster. Regardless, I'll continue using the 718 for planing/rip sawing/sanding. I haven't tried running any flooring wider than 3" on the edge, but I can see where higher profile might have a tendancy to move. I would think using the dual routers would eliminate this problem though.

[pineywoods]

Let me re-do my post. I have a 718 but NOT the 2 outboard routers. Have a friend who has that setup and it works well, although it's a little picky to get set up right. I tried to run 3 inch wide lumber standing up vertically, that didn't work so well. For stuff like baseboard, crown molding, etc, the 718 works well. I make my own knives and have duplicated  a bunch of antique stuff that is no longer available. That's kinda hard to do on a shaper/router table.

[JV]

Personally, I'd go with the router and use a bit set like the Amana 55456.  The profile gives you a nail slot and relieves the bottom for a tighter fit.  Slower but more stabile than trying to hold a board vertical in the 718.

[WDH]

I have made a lot of T&G on a router table with a 3 1/4 HP Makita router.  Works great, but you have to have patience since it is slow.  Putting it up is easy, just use a nail gun and nail through the tongue.  Goes up a lot faster than it takes to mill it!  The 45 degree pattern will be nice.

Are you going with standard T&G or with V-groove?  The V-groove gives a nice shadow line and looks very elegant.  Random widths also give a nice look.

[OneWithWood]

Thanks for the prompt replies.
I think you all have verified my concerns with using the 718.  I have a large 1hp power feeder that I use on my tablesaw.  I may be able to swing it around and use it with the router table.
JV, I will look into the Amana 55456.  The Whiteside wedge bits were something I was looking at also.
Danny, I am thinking a flush fit for the ceiling and a V groove for the walls but the jury is still out on that.
Is there a recommended sequence for installing the boards?  I assume the last board is face nailed and the tongue is left off. 

[JV]

One thing I have seen but never done is make a double tongue starter board placing it in the center and working from both sides.  Should make the two outside boards even in size.