iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Question for Lucas owners

Started by urbanlumberinc, February 06, 2007, 10:27:00 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

urbanlumberinc

While cutting up a big Elm log the other day I noticed that the saw cairrage wants to bounce up and down while pulling through the vertical cut.  If I slow my feed rate it seems to help, but doesn't stop all together.  Is something out of adjustment?  I sharpened the blade, checked the vertical alignment on the front of the saw cairrage, both are good to go.  It's sawing nice clean, accurate lumber. 

Any help is, as always, appreciated. ??? ??? ???

BW_Williams

Was this a butt log with alot of grain runout?  Belt tension good?  'Bout all I can think of. 
Support your local Volunteer Fire Dept.  (not by accident)
Support your local Ski Patrol (by snowboarding:)
Mayor of Millerdale, Washington, USA (by God)!

solodan

Do a search for blade bounce. It seems that it occurs more for the Peterson owners than does the Lucas owners, so you might find some answers from those that have Petersons. I only cut soft woods, so I have never experienced this. Do you have alot of tension wood in these logs? are your center supports in right? What is happening is the carrage is gettting pulled into the cut, and you feel the bounce as the  track pulls it back up.

brdmkr

I've only experienced bounce once and that was in a pecan log that had some wood under stress.  I just assumed that was what caused the bounce.  I found that slowing down helped a great deal, but only if I started the cut slow.  If I waited until the bounce started then slowing down did not help so much.  I also had someone place a wedge in the cut after I got about half way down the log.
Lucas 618  Mahindra 4110, FEL and pallet forks, some cant hooks, and a dose of want-to

Captain

I'm guessing that your center unit was in the middle of your saw frame somewhere, and you were in a deep vertical cut.  This phenomina shows up from time to time in harder woods.  If all else is good with blade and adjustments, the bounce is caused by the blade pulling down and flexing the cross frame, then the upward motion is when the frame flex overcomes the downward force, and the bounce begins.  It is not nearly as easy to produce when the saw ceter unit is to the left or the right of the frame.  It only happens to the "large frame" Petersons, the ATS and the Large Frame 8"WPFs.  The 10" mill has a beefier frame.

Peterson makes an anti-bounce kit that consists of a roller that adjusts to ride the top of the log when making cuts.  It has to be manually adjusted for the depth of cut.  It works well.  :)  The latest new Petersons have a stiffer frame rail, credit Chris Browne for getting that one done.

I'm not sure if I have a picture, but many forum members have ATS mills with this feature.

Captain

DanG

Track bounce is a common problem on the Mobile Dimension saw, as well.  I think it can occur with any circular saw where the saw is suspended on a long track.  In a deep cut, much of the cutting is done when the tooth is traveling upward, which tends to pull the saw downward.  When the tooth exits the log, the track springs back just in time for the next tooth to pull it back down.  Unless you want to fool around with a track shoe to support the middle of the track, just slow the feed rate and keep your RPM up.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Fla._Deadheader


  How many places along the track do you put the shims ???  If I cheat, I get track bounce. Only propping both ends and the middle will create a lot of bounce in hard pinchy logs. I try to have 5 places propped tight on each side. 
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Captain

Harold, you'll NEVER get frame bounce in you small frame WPF like these guys are talking about.  Track sway in the deep horizontals with high track...that's your baby.  Cross brace needed.

I don't usually put my cross skid track supports at the ends, they are usually 4-5 feet in or so, then also supported in the middle.  Takes some of the issue you are referring to out  :)

Captain

Fla._Deadheader



  Maybe I will wake up from my dream, then. I cooda swore that machine jumping up and down, was Bounceing ???  ::) ::) ::)
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

Captain

Don't wake up, we all know you live in a dream world down there.  :) Heck I've been dreaming of being there lately  fire_smiley  You certainly can have some bounce in the tracks..when unsupported.  Just ask any ATS owner.

Captain

Fla._Deadheader


We got room, Craig  ;) ;D ;D ;D

  I even had the carriage jump up and the wheels jump off the guide rail.
::) ::)   THAT'LL getcher attention.  ::) ::)  Now, got this 5½' Ojoche to saw. It's scary having that saw up near face level.  ::) :o ;D
All truth passes through three stages:
   First, it is ridiculed;
   Second, it is violently opposed; and
   Third, it is accepted as self-evident.

-- Arthur Schopenhauer (1788-1860)

CALSAW

I have found that moving the end frames in, to reduce the span of the horiz. rails will stiffen things up alot. Might help if your cutting shorter logs. :-*
Lucas 827 w/ slabber

urbanlumberinc

I think I got er figgered out.  The black tube that supplies water to the blade had pulled out about an1/8th of an inch.  I was only lubing the blade on the horizontal cut.  Soon as I pushed the tube a bit closer to the blade, the whole bouncing thing came to an end.  Thanks for all the advice, I'm sure some of the remedies will prove useful in the future

Nate Surveyor

Now Calsaw, that may be an answer to sombody else's troubles later!

I have found that if I mill a flimsy piece, (and not leaving enough vertical wood) of pine, that sometimes it bounces. I have only 2 bunkers, 7'8" apart.  So I know I am sort of setting myself up for it.

I am designing a log leveler, for tapered logs. I will post photos in a few days. It is mostly done, but not yet installed.

N
I know less than I used to.

Thank You Sponsors!