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Sawing my first 21 foot beams.

Started by POSTON WIDEHEAD, July 20, 2013, 09:32:43 PM

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POSTON WIDEHEAD

I've got a customer who brought in 5, 22 foot logs....today. They were old Pine, crooked and the bark falling off.
He wants 21 foot beams to go in his new house.

Now get this.....he wants his beams 3" x 5" x 21 feet.  :o

After a long talk, I convinced him his logs were to small in diameter and too crooked to saw.

So off to the woods I go and get 5, 22 foot logs (I fell them) and bring them to the mill.
I'm telling this guy, this 3 x 5 x 21 green beam will most likely crown or sag at this span. So he said he would put some legs under it while the beam dried.

Ok.....I did my best and this is now his problem.

Now my problem.....getting a 22 foot beam through a 13 foot door.  >:(  I did it.....after a while with my trusty backhoe.
Now, I get the log on the mill and low and behold I find out I can't saw a 22 foot log log.
So I saw the length down to 21'-1". Now I find out I still can't saw it.
So I take the rubber bumpers off.....and get the log just right and it will saw it now but JUST barely.

Now....I was under the impression I could saw at least a 21 footer without taking the bumpers off......but I guess I was wrong. But it is no big deal. I'm sawing 21 foot beams now and have 4 more to do.
So I guess all is well as long as I remember where I laid my bumpers.  :)

In the last pic, you will see where the head stops and the blade teeth just barely make it through.
I can promise you this job is paying good.....but it's a little tough when you're by yourself.



  

  

 
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

YellowHammer

Great job, sounds like you had a full day. 8)
YH
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

Brucer

My first mill was 21'-0" from "tooth to tooth". In other words, the teeth are touching the end of the log where I start, and just get to the end when I finish, but the blade doesn't clear the end of the log.

My present mill was 21'-1/8" (before I added extensions).

Taking the front bumper off helps, but watch you don't sheer off that Nylon bolt that holds the contact strip in place -- the shoe will hit it if you bang the carriage into the bumper bracket. You can also pick up an extra inch or two if you take off the back bumper AND add a couple of links of drive chain so you can pull the chain adjuster back a little.
Bruce    LT40HDG28 bandsaw
"Complex problems have simple, easy to understand wrong answers."

slider

David Customsawyer taught me the best way around the overhang problem.If it's much overhang support it.When you get almost to the end of your track just hit the up leaver and continue sawing out of the cut.Finish 3 sides before you move the cant.I'm assuming you have roller toe boards.Good luck.
al glenn

Peter Drouin

Quote from: slider on July 21, 2013, 08:13:59 AM
David Customsawyer taught me the best way around the overhang problem.If it's much overhang support it.When you get almost to the end of your track just hit the up leaver and continue sawing out of the cut.Finish 3 sides before you move the cant.I'm assuming you have roller toe boards.Good luck.

smiley_thumbsup
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

Looks like you met the challenge OK.  Congrats on the job.   smiley_thumbsup
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bugdust

Nothing like a real challenge. Did I not read an earlier post that someone mentioned sawing on raised toe boards and pushing the log back to the front (actually pushing the log through the blade)? Since I have never sawed a 21'er I assumed that was the actual distance from bumper to bumper. Guess that's what I get for "summin".   :-\
Since I retired I really like work: It fascinates me. I can sit and look at it for hours.

GDinMaine

Glad you posted that.  I didn't think it would not be quite that much pain to saw a 21' log, but I guess you have to cap the capacity somewhere when designing a machine. Needless to say I never sawed anything that long.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

rmack

Quote from: GDinMaine on July 21, 2013, 09:05:30 AM
Glad you posted that.  I didn't think it would not be quite that much pain to saw a 21' log, but I guess you have to cap the capacity somewhere when designing a machine. Needless to say I never sawed anything that long.

just a guess, it's probably designed to cut 20' lumber with some room to spare.  :)
the foundation for a successful life is being able to recognize what to least expect the most... (anonymous)

Welder Bob
2012 LT40HDSD35 Yanmar Diesel Triple
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POSTON WIDEHEAD

Yes Slider I do have the roller toe boards and thank goodness for that. Even then trying to roll a 21 foot log can make you scratch your head if a knot has to roll across the roller.
I would not have taken this job, just because of my shed set up but the customer could not find anyone else with a band mill to do it.
At least I've learned a few things with out tearing something up.....yet!  :D
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Chuck White

Quote from: Brucer on July 21, 2013, 02:14:58 AM
My first mill was 21'-0" from "tooth to tooth". In other words, the teeth are touching the end of the log where I start, and just get to the end when I finish, but the blade doesn't clear the end of the log.


Same here, when my sawhead is at the front of the mill, I can mark where the teeth are and then run the sawhead to the other end and the teeth have a total travel of just over 21', maybe by a quarter inch.

However the body of the blade is still "in the log".
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Sixacresand

I did some by putting the log on skids to allow the log to be moved back and forth on the mill bed on the same plane. It was hard work, required moving the log up and back on each cut.  If it was a regular thing, I would just add on another bed extension. 
"Sometimes you can make more hay with less equipment if you just use your head."  Tom, Forestry Forum.  Tenth year with a LT40 Woodmizer,

POSTON WIDEHEAD

Quote from: Chuck White on July 21, 2013, 10:35:57 AM
...... when my sawhead is at the front of the mill, I can mark where the teeth are and then run the sawhead to the other end and the teeth have a total travel of just over 21', maybe by a quarter inch.

However the body of the blade is still "in the log".

This is correct Chuck.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

drobertson

Nice work David, lots of haggling and fanaggling for sure, good job man,  david
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

Martha White Nelson

Nice job!!!  Lots involved in that project.  Have a great day!!!
Martha

GDinMaine

Quote from: rmack on July 21, 2013, 09:17:14 AM
Quote from: GDinMaine on July 21, 2013, 09:05:30 AM
Glad you posted that.  I didn't think it would not be quite that much pain to saw a 21' log, but I guess you have to cap the capacity somewhere when designing a machine. Needless to say I never sawed anything that long.

just a guess, it's probably designed to cut 20' lumber with some room to spare.  :)

Actually in the booklet they say maximum log length 21'.  I guess they really mean that.
It's the going that counts not the distance!

WM LT-40HD-D42

GAB

On my business card I claim I can do 20'-6" with the mill and 26'-6" with the 6' extension bed.  I have done 20'-8" but it was very tight.  Not I did not remove the bumpers.
When sawing timbers that long plan on supporting the ends or it could droop, and if you take pride in your work, you will not be happy as thick and thin will come into play.  Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

Sheepkeeper

Last summer I sawed out two 5" x 11" x 21' ash wagon sills to replace the ones that broke. Careful placement of the log and square cut ends are essential. Also having your Wheaties for breakfast.  ;D I may have to cut 4 more plus deck boards this summer for 2 more hay wagons.
The hurry-er I go the behind-er I get.

WoodenHead

I was asked a couple months ago to cut some 6" x 6" Eastern White Cedar timbers 22' long.  The customer wanted six of them at least 22'.  Finding them that long was the hard part.  My father has a cedar bush that hasn't been cut in the last 50 years so I found the six trees I needed (about 150 years old).  One of them was 9" across at 25'.  That's quite good for cedar in these parts.

From what I am reading, I think I used a slightly different method.  I cut as far as the mill would cut.  Then I stopped and backed up the head a foot or so (with wedges under the slab) and cut the slab off with a chainsaw.  This left me with a couple feet of uncut log.  Leaving that I would then rotate 180 degrees and do the same.  Then I would pull the log back, finish the last couple feet, rotate 180 degrees and finish the last couple feet.  Rotate 90 degrees and repeat the process again.  I did this so that I would always have a flat side sliding back on the deck.  Admittedly cedar is reasonably light and in this case small diameter.  I'm not sure how I would handle things if the log was larger diameter.

hackberry jake

The max on my mill is 22'7" if the log isnt very wide. Since my head is angled, I lose distance with width. With a 16" square my max would probably be around 22'2"
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clww

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Stephen1

Great job, goes to show where this a $...there is a way. 8)
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Dave Shepard

Quote from: WoodenHead on July 21, 2013, 09:06:30 PM
I was asked a couple months ago to cut some 6" x 6" Eastern White Cedar timbers 22' long.  The customer wanted six of them at least 22'.  Finding them that long was the hard part.  My father has a cedar bush that hasn't been cut in the last 50 years so I found the six trees I needed (about 150 years old).  One of them was 9" across at 25'.  That's quite good for cedar in these parts.

From what I am reading, I think I used a slightly different method.  I cut as far as the mill would cut.  Then I stopped and backed up the head a foot or so (with wedges under the slab) and cut the slab off with a chainsaw.  This left me with a couple feet of uncut log.  Leaving that I would then rotate 180 degrees and do the same.  Then I would pull the log back, finish the last couple feet, rotate 180 degrees and finish the last couple feet.  Rotate 90 degrees and repeat the process again.  I did this so that I would always have a flat side sliding back on the deck.  Admittedly cedar is reasonably light and in this case small diameter.  I'm not sure how I would handle things if the log was larger diameter.

That is exactly how I did my 47' timbers. You can only saw 45' with the 24' extension.



 
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Qweaver

Jobs like this are about the only time that I really like my Peterson.  30'+.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

POSTON WIDEHEAD

I'd like to see a Peterson saw in person.
I'll bet it's fun!
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

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