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B 20 loader arms Questions?

Started by redbeard, December 10, 2011, 10:03:28 PM

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redbeard

Been sawing alot of 8"-10"   logs and they always fall between end of arms and edge of bunks. Has anyone moved the arms in closer or any other tricks or advise appreciated. The bolts shown in pic are they there for this purpose or are they just for spacer. Couldn't find any info in manual 

  

  

 
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

davey duck

 hi maybe a hinged arm that pivots in the hole that will fold down so it will clear the saw.
David G.Fleming

5quarter

  From looking at your pictures, maybe you could fit a 12" piece of channel partially over 2 of your bunks and partially extending out to the loading arms just drill a 1/2" hole through both the channel and the bunk and slide a hitch pin through. easily removable once your log is loaded and only needs to be strong enough to load the small logs. Awful nice property you have ther in the background of the first picture.

Chet
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

ladylake


There's not enough clearance for head travel to move the loader arms any closer.  Should be able to rig up  a flip over bar off the arms, maybe could be made to hit a stop on the way up and flip up and the back down when lowered.  Pushing one end of the log onto the deck first keeps it from falling in there.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

ladylake

Quote from: ladylake on December 11, 2011, 06:08:10 AM

There's not enough clearance for head travel to move the loader arms any closer.  Should be able to rig up  a flip over bar off the arms, maybe could be made to hit a stop on the way up and flip up and the back down when lowered(making me think again).  Pushing one end of the log onto the deck first keeps it from falling in there.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

redbeard

I've been doing the getting one end on first. That works and the bigger logs you don't notice the edge to much but they will roll back and get caught there. I like the idea of making something that could flip over and make a ramp or bridge. You would just have to make sure to flip back after loading.
Whidbey Woodworks and Custom Milling  2019 Cooks AC 3662T High production band mill and a Hud-son 60 Diesel wide cut bandmill  JD 2240 50hp Tractor with 145 loader IR 1044 all terrain fork lift  Cooks sharp

eastberkshirecustoms

From what I see, Logmaster has  flip up 'assist rails' on their loader arms. Should not be too difficult to fabricate.



 

red oaks lumber

back in the day my b-20 had the same problems i built slider arms on the loader arms , they had springs on cables on the end. when you lift the arms it would pull on the cable on the sliders making them slide up crossing the gap that causes all smaller logs to drop into. getting your cables to be the right lenght takes alittle fine tuning.
the other way i thought about doing was bolt loosly a peice of steel to the loader arms that will hinge down when the arms are lifted just ahead of the log crossing , you would need to have some spring loades cables to pull the bridge back down.
i probbaly didn't explain that worth a darn :)
the experts think i do things wrong
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Hello there.
  I used a 8' long 4x4 and it works just fine.  I made myself.
    Tim

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