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Finishing advice needed

Started by ellmoe, December 23, 2018, 07:52:51 AM

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ellmoe

  Have neighbors that just had a butcher block counter top counter tops installed in their kitchen. It is supposed to be teak. If it is , it looks like it is second growth , all close to the pith , wide growth rings , no color. Anyway , the finish is coming off with light cleaning , the installers have been of no help . They want to strip counter tops down and refinish. The wife ( boss ) is interested in an oil type finish that she can just reapply , husband is desiring more of a bar top epoxy . This is a " working " countertop , will be subject to normal use , not just a show piece. Being the local "wood guy " , I am supposed to know everything wood related. I . of course ,  insured that I do , but need time to access my vast store of knowledge. I can't be expected to recall everything on demand!  ;D  So I am now accessing my vast knowledge base ! Fortunately , my neighbor , is a smart guy , but " offline" . I can get all the credit and maintain my status as the " wood guy ". Can you'all " throw me a bone " ? Thanks.
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

muggs

I have built a lot of chopping blocks. I have always used a mixture of mineral oil and bees wax. Worked for me.

LeeB

I've never worked with teak but it seems I remember reading that it has to be wiped with acetone before finishing to remove the natural oils. Could be why the applied finish is failing.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

WLC

Never worked with teak, but like Muggs, I also use a mineral oil and beeswax finish for food safe stuff.  I mostly turn wooden bowls and use it when it is going to be used instead of just displayed.
Woodmizer LT28
Branson 4wd tractor
Stihl chainsaws
Elbow grease.

Dan_Shade

I found an article:  https://www.woodmagazine.com/materials-guide/lumber/wood-species-3/teak

It's an interesting read:

"



Finishing teak poses the most difficulty. The wood doesn't take stain exceptionally well, and traditional clear finishes (except lacquer) can be a problem. For instance, regular polyurethane won't set up. But two-part polyurethane, the type for marine use, will. That's why teak is frequently coated with a penetrating oil, such as tung or teak."
Woodmizer LT40HDG25 / Stihl 066 alaskan
lots of dull bands and chains

There's a fine line between turning firewood into beautiful things and beautiful things into firewood.

ellmoe

Thanks for the responses guys , and the extra effort Dan. I'll check the article out.
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

69bronco

Oil/wax would be my choice also. All I use on boards,bowls and counters. If you don't want to fool with mixing there are products available, board butter or something like that. Epoxy would be pretty for a little while, till you started working on it. Another nice feature with the oil/wax is if you get a burn/cut/blemish you can sand it out and put more on the spot without refinishing.

WDH

100% pure tung oil.  Here is some info and a source for the oil.  Don't use the "tung oil finish" that you can find locally as it has very little actual tung oil in it.

100% Pure Tung Oil Wood Finish & Protection - Non-Toxic Wood Oil
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

ellmoe

Thanks again , guys , and for the website, Danny. Merry Christmas , all!
Thirty plus years in the sawmill/millwork business. A sore back and arthritic fingers to prove it!

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