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Bypass Filter Engine - keep or remove?

Started by Puffergas, July 04, 2018, 01:15:50 PM

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Puffergas

Are these old bypass filters worth keeping on the tractor? I do not work the machine hard like it was designed to be. It would clean up the fender area and make it easier to change the oil, without it. But if it is a big plus for the engine, I would keep it.

If I would remove it would the two oil ports get a hose jumpered between the two ports or do they get plugged? The drain port just goes to the oil pan. The supply comes from the primary engine oil filter.







Thanks!
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

Oliver05262

If it were mine, I'd probably leave it on, but it does require another 10 quarts or so of oil to fill it after an oil & filter change. If you don't run the tractor hard, and change oil fairly often, the full-flow filtration built into the engine's system would be perfectly adequate. If you do take the bypass filter setup off, plug the connections when you remove the hoses. The bypass system is just that; it bleeds a small amount of oil off the lube system, super cleans that oil, and returns it to the sump.  
  Is that a 555 Cummins?
Oliver Durand
"You can't do wrong by doing good"
It's OK to cry.
I never did say goodby to my invisible friend.
"I woke up still not dead again today" Willy
Don't use force-get a bigger hammer.

Puffergas

Thanks Oliver. Yes, it is a 555. I guess I need to think about it.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

J 5

          I have not seen a triple nickel for a long time and that was in a highway tractor.  Guess  if you decide to keep it  , there are lots of bypass filter adapters out there to convert to a spin on filter.
                 Regards  J 5

mike_belben

I would keep them.  Bypass filtration should allow you to more or less never change the oil, just the bypass filters plus makeup oil.  The only way to know is send the oil out to blackstone for analysis.  


I have added bypass to my equipment, not removed it.
Praise The Lord

Crusarius

More oil is never a bad thing. More oil means less heat. Heat kills everything!

Puffergas

OK, keep the filter. A couple observations:

When it followed me home (first got it) the oil looked like crap and the oil pressure was high. I want to say, off the gage. After an oil change the oil pressure was on the mark.

A lot of iron in this tripple nickel and not easy to warm up. It loves 90*f days or higher! Low engine temp is also bad for them old boys. I have a shutter grill that is on an old truck that might find its way on this machine.

Thanks.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

barbender

I've been told those 555's required you to keep a close eye on your coolant ph as the liners were very prone to pitting. They're a cool engine👍
Too many irons in the fire

Puffergas

Barbender, that is my understanding to. I need to get a kit from NAPA or maybe the paper from a drug store would work.... It has a spin on filter like thing that helps condition the coolant.

The 555 sings a sweet note.
Jeff
Somewhere 20 miles south of Lake Erie.

GEHL 5624 skid steer, Trojan 114, Timberjack 225D, D&L SB1020 mill, Steiger Bearcat II

mike_belben

A half dozen CLR and water flushes running it up hot, then a coolant bypass loop with filtration will work wonders.  I had incredible rust and liner pitting on my 466 prior to doing all that. Now it stays green insteada brown.  

Always remove the bottom hose entirely for a flushing.  The drain valve is too small to let the chocolate sauce out. 
Praise The Lord

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