iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Kohler engine won't start

Started by BadgerJim, May 04, 2017, 09:53:44 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Saga Dan

New malfunction indicator light (MIL) arrived today. I am getting a 0337 code for crankshaft position sensor. 

Removed the covers and first removed the minimal bit of surface rust on the sensor wheel teeth. 

Then as per the service manual. Tested points #4 and #13 on the black connector out of the ECU.  Very low reading about 12 ohms.  Tested at the crankshaft sensor and read 375ohms (within the specifications).  Tested the individual conductors and found they were good .03 ohms each from the ECU to the connection harness of the crank sensor.  Still no difference from the harness at ECU through the sensor.

Going to have to give Woodmizer a call again in the morning....
2014 LT40 Manual; XP346; XP395; Logosol M8

MartyParsons

Hello,
   Here are some things to check.
You can put a test light across the two wires on the MIL light if it is burnt out to get your code. I do understand you got yours working.
Possible causes listed in the manual.
1. Crank sensor
2. Crank position sensor circuit problem , Pin Circuits Black 4 and Black 13
3 Crank sensor/toothed Wheel Air Gap
4 Toothed Wheel
5 Flywheel Key Sheared
6 ECU

Service
If Fault code indicates a problem test as follows
1. Check mounting and air gap of sensor .020-0.70 mm  ( .008-.027in)
2 .Inspect wiring and connections
3.Check engine has resistor type spark plugs
4 Disconnect the black connector from ECU
5.  Connect Ohm Meter between # 4 and # 13 pin terminals. Resistance value of 325-395 at room temp should be obtained. If correct check mounting, air gap flywheel teeth ( damage, run out etc. )
6. Disconnect crank sensor from wiring harness, test resistance between terminals. 325-395 Ohms should be again be obtained.
a. if resistance is incorrect remove the screws securing the sensor to the mounting bracket and replace the sensor.
b. If the resistance in step 5 was incorrect, but the   sensor alone was correct then check the wire harness # 4 and # `13.   Fix issue and recheck.
7. once fault is found clear codes.

From the manual.

Hope this helps. Never seen an issue here.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

POSTON WIDEHEAD

My indicator light showed the crank shaft sensor to be a problem a few months back.

If Marty remembers,  I called and him and he said it was a soft code and just needs to be reset.

Marty talked be through a series of turning the key on and off and something else. But it worked and problem was solved.

Marty do you remember? Getting to where I can't remember everything.  :D



The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

MartyParsons

Yes, we must be close to the same age. Have no idea!?  :o
M
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

POSTON WIDEHEAD

The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

BadgerJim

To follow up on this topic, the problem turned out to be the second fuel pump on this Kohler ECH749 fuel injected engine.  Woodmizer was of little help - they suggested taking it to a local small engine shop.  This engine has two fuel pumps: a mechanical one on the rocker cover and an electric one tucked way down on the mast side of the engine...almost impossible to get at and remove without moving the engine which I did not want to do and possibly affect alignment etc.

Finally found a very good local small engine man who is familiar with Kohler engines. He agreed it was the 12volt fuel pump and basically disassembled the front of the engine and was able to get it out without moving engine mounts.  Replaced it with a (expensive) new pump. He was fair on his labor charge.

Evidently the fuel injection is powered by a very low torque 12 v motor which is very prone to seizing up if not used for a period of time, even with fuel stabilizers added to the tank.  He said the thing to do is to empty the gas tank and run it dry until it stops. He also says always run fresh regular gas from a station that sells a lot of gas so it is less than 30 days old.  He says the problem with using the zero ethanol/higher priced recreational gas is that it has often been sitting in the station's tanks for a long time. Better to use fresh regular gas. Change the fuel filter annually.

The saw runs well now. Have a lot of logs to catch up on sawing.

I hope this helps others with this engine.


drobertson

Glad you are running!  Years back, I was a big Kohler fan, of late, not near that much, to add around here, folks know, the 91 ethanol free is fresh fuel. No one likes unproductive days filled with PITA battles
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

woodman

  check to see if the muffler is grounded
Jim Cripanuk

pineywoods

Quote from: woodman on November 10, 2017, 10:16:22 PM
  check to see if the muffler is grounded
Will check that, un-grounded muffler should give a faulty O2 sensor code, but computers have been known to lie...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

Thank You Sponsors!