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Auto Feed Dilemma

Started by bwstout, May 12, 2018, 10:15:25 AM

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bwstout

I have read all the post that I can find here and after the fact :D  I thought would just post my dilemma here on Auto Feed >:(
I built my mill 2016 it was all manual until I relazied I was a little too Old to do a lot of pushing and pulling. So had a sorce for  wheel chair motors (my chairs) now able to walk. To make better use of it I use them for auto feed and raise and lower the head. This work great just using a wench reversing switch to rase and lower with 35 chain and sprockets to control the speed.

But the problem I have is the auto feed thus the Dilemma as of Today I have destroyed 10 controllers. Now that I have found this fourm I could have save a lot of money and headache :( If I would have started here and with Mr Kibetz advice on how to wire controllers maybe not so many problems.

So is there really a way to make the controllers REDNECK proof after reading I think that I switch too quick between forward and reverse and destroyed. The last controller I fried by hooking up the pot wrong :-[ the pic show what I fried and what  I am going to use again ;D


 

 










these are from Scooter Parts I have a 10 ohm pot to control the speed.

Would be thankful for any advice on how not to screw up  again :-[

This is my mill with a large pecan on it


 

 
home built mill

hacknchop

I can't help with your dilemma but I'm sure someone will . Nice picture of your mill and welcome to the forum . :)
Often wrong never indoubt

bwstout

Thanks this is an assume forum. I mill for myself to support the "hobby" my wife says is quite expensive.

One thing I have learned do plenty of research first will save a lot of money and frustration. 
home built mill

LeeB

Tell her it's cheaper than hanging out in the beer halls.  :D
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

Rickcnc

Using the data I could find searching for your images I came up with this approach.. That said I would hold off on using until others can provide feed back.  I have never seen or worked with a controller like yours and I was surprised to see your choice of reversing switch is rated at 2000W.


pineywoods

Toasting speed controllers is usually the result of making a mistaken assumption. Which is.. they vary the electrical current to a motor, and thus vary the speed/power of the motor. Wrong..These controllers work by applying FULL power for a short period of time, then turning off the power completely. Repeated at a fairly rapid rate, 1000 times a second is typical.The ratio of power on time versus off time gives the effect of varying the power to the motor. Works well for light bulbs, but with motors, there is a fly in the ointment. Large current through the motor coils (remember FULL power) builds up an intense magnetic field in the motor core. When the current is interrupted, this field collapses and induces a large current of short duration and opposite polarity in the motor windings. The electrical components in the speed controller won't tolerate negative spikes, and promptly smoke, unless some provision is made to protect them.
What's missing is a protective diode between the speed controller and the motor, that either blocks the reverse voltage, or short circuits it. The electric specs of the diode needs to be somewhat matched to the motor, thus is not usually included in the controller. The other option is to use a speed controller with robust enough components to withstand the abuse. (read expensive)...
1995 Wood Mizer LT 40, Liquid cooled kawasaki,homebuilt hydraulics. Homebuilt solar dry kiln.  Woodmaster 718 planner, Kubota M4700 with homemade forks and winch, stihl  028, 029, Ms390
100k bd ft club.Charter member of The Grumpy old Men

bwstout

Quote from: Rickcnc on May 13, 2018, 08:00:05 AM
Using the data I could find searching for your images I came up with this approach.. That said I would hold off on using until others can provide feed back.  I have never seen or worked with a controller like yours and I was surprised to see your choice of reversing switch is rated at 2000W.


this is the way I have it now with a pot in for speed control but have not powered it up. Still not sure if I have to where I want burn it up.
The reason that I chose the controller with high amps .I have burnt up some many and was trying to prevent another burn out. but again I am total confuse as a termite in a yoyo when it comes to electronics. Have read most all of the post on how here but I road the "little bus" to school and it is still kinda slow understanding
home built mill

bwstout

the motors I use the chair they came off us has a 50amp breaker on it so I assumed they are 50 amp again "little bus"
guy, so I put in the breaker so after ready Mt. Pineywoods I still have a smoker on hand so could you tell me how large or if it is possible to wire in the diode to maybe prevent a smoker ;D 
home built mill

John1946

I like the controllers with the reversing built in, a lot simpler to wire and protection on the board. They are relative inexpensive, 20 bucks for a 60 amp continuous current.

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