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pics of my new-old mobile dimension 128

Started by LKasdorf, May 07, 2003, 05:37:27 PM

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LKasdorf

Here is an url with pics:
http://www.auditoryintegration.net/images/other/md128/

The saw only has 111 hrs on it, but has sat outside all its life apparently. Date of mfr is 1981. The track is quite rusty, but the engine & transport are not bad. Engine runs well, but I need new belts, as i currently won't make it through a log, and it won't return.

I am confused about the track support beams. In the book they mention a box beam with the rack gear welded on it. Mine has C channel with the rack welded to it.

This C channel is bolted to a pine 4x6, right at the edge, since clearance for the pinion gear is needed. This is a real kludge, and clearly not factory made.

So- I'm thinking I'll fashion new timbers from oak with a ridge that the c channel straddles. Sound good?

Also, I find it strange that there is only one mounting hole for the track support beam on the end stand flanges. I wonder why that is??

I'm also curious about the setup for moving the rig to a log. There are some diagrams in the manual that I don't quite grok. Mine is on a trailer, but is designed to have the log brought to it.

If anybody has one of these units set up for portable operation, I'd like to see closeups of the track support beams and end stands.

I'm very happy to find this forum!
Lynn Kasdorf (note the male symbol...)

biziedizie

Wish you lived closer as I would love to see one of those mills in action. Can it be extended to cut the really long stuff?

   Steve

LKasdorf

I think the basic unit can cut 22'. It came with 2 add-on sections, that give it 34' capacity, I think.

Of course, I don't know how i'd move a 34' log onto my rig, but that's another story...this would probably make more sense in the situation where you mount the rig over the log, which I have not figured out yet. Specifically, am I really gonna be able to lift one end of this thing, even with the engine at the other end?? And if I could lift it, say with an assitant, how woudl I get it OVER a huge log??


biziedizie

I think you need Tom to bring over his sky hook. :D

    Steve

Paul_H

Welcome to the forum Lynn.

I have an older 127,and the setup is the same as yours.The 4x6 support beam is a standard item as far as I can tell.If you replace it,I think you should copy the pattern from the old one.We just replaced ours this Spring.Your shoe that slides on the channel is identical to mine.

The reason the track has only one pin to the support shoe is so the track can be moved to match the angle (or taper) of the log.To do this,you disconnect the square rod that turns the rack and pinion on the far end(it disconnects at the operators end).When the angle is where you want it,reconnect the rod and both will move again.

I hope you can understand my meaning.
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

LKasdorf

QuoteWelcome to the forum Lynn.

I have an older 127,and the setup is the same as yours.The 4x6 support beam is a standard item as far as I can tell.If you replace it,I think you should copy the pattern from the old one.We just replaced ours this Spring.Your shoe that slides on the channel is identical to mine.

The reason the track has only one pin to the support shoe is so the track can be moved to match the angle (or taper) of the log.To do this,you disconnect the square rod that turns the rack and pinion on the far end(it disconnects at the operators end).When the angle is where you want it,reconnect the rod and both will move again.

I hope you can understand my meaning.

Thanks fro the welcome. It looks like I can pick up a lot from this forum.

Do you have the C channel as well? You can see in my pics how it will have a tendency to slide off the edge of the 4x6, since it is placed right at the edge. Looks like a dumb design to me...I think some way of mounting the C channel so that it is supported in the middle rather than on the 2 edges would work better.

My question about the single bolt had to do with the way the 4x6 is attached to the endstand vertical flange. Just a single bolt through the 4x6 and the steel flange. I guess it is sufficient, but I wouldn't design it that way.

I follow your comment about skewing the track to match the taper of the log, but that is not related to my comment. Anyway, it is a small point. My big question is about the configuration of the C channel that the shoe rides on.

Also, does this trailer setup look like it came that way from the factory?

Paul_H

It won't slide off the channel because there are support shims underneath that fit the channel perfectly.The two lag bolts are more than adequate to secure the channel.I haven't seen any different designs.If it aint broke...... :)

I'm not familiar with the trailer package but there are a few other members that will be along to help you with that.


Good luck on the mill 8)
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

DanG

Hi again, Lynn. In spite of the obvious deterioration, you don't appear to be in real bad shape. Mine has the newer steel crossfeed beams, but the wood ones should do ok. The single bolts do seem a bit minimal, but they only have to support the tower and saw head, which only weigh a few hundred pounds. New beams, belts, and the handy application of a wire brush should put you in business. 8)

One thing I noticed is the hand crank for the elevation. If you don't have the electric lift, you need to look into it. It makes all the difference in the world!

I'll try to email you some pics of my rig in the next few days. It ain't all that much different, though.

Before I got a forklift, I rolled logs directly from my trailer to the mill bed, via some beams bridging from one to the other. The trailer needs to be of a compatible height, but that isn't a real hard obstacle.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Paul_H

Your DanG right on the electric lift.It would get old real fast. :-/
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

Frank_Pender

Welcome to the Forum. Lynn.  You have a treasure for a mill.  I did not see a hydrastatic drive handle in the pictures, or did I mis someting?  yep the others are correct in the beam.  I have a newer model or two that has the 3 x 6 tubeing for a beam.  It all works the same with only one bolt in the ends.  I am sure you are welcome to install and second bolt for each end of the wooden beam, when you install a new one.  If you do not want the extra track let me know.  I will pay the shipping to take them off your hands. ;D  I have two mills one is a 24' capaicity hydrastatic drive and the other can be extend to 24' via a trailer that telescopes.  The second mill is a special only two of a kind.  It is all hydraulic.  I would recommend that you place a very good elements resistant lubricant on the channel that straddles the beam.  this allows for the "shoe" that set atop of the beam channel to move much more easily.  As to the loading of logs, some people have a winch set up that came with their trailers that parbuckles the log onto the bunks.  Other models of trails simply had ramps that could be used to roll the logs up with a peavey.  If you use the second method make sure the ramps are long and sloping for easier rolling by hand.  I have one mil set up on a stationary basis and load the logs with a tractor and forks.  the second is on a trailer that had all hydraulic loading arms.  I simply brings the logs to some holding bunks near the ground and roll the logs onto the loading arms.  
Frank Pender

DanG

Hey Frank! What kind of lube do you use on the crossfeed tracks?  I spray mine with Lithium grease occasionally, then "loosen" that up with a squirt of good ol' Dubya D. Fawty when I start to use the mill. I haven't found anything that doesn't get stiff sitting out in the weather.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Frank_Pender

Dang, what are you up so late fer?  I am already a hour and a half past my bedtime.  Most of what I am using now is good ol" Delo 400.  I will have to see what is on the can and let you know.   Oh, bye the way Lynn, are the risers 4'?  And too, put some sort of go juice on them from time to time; as well as on the top of the track frame where the drive angle pivets and slides.
Frank Pender

DanG

I went back and looked again, and you're right, Frank. The hydrostatic drive handle that we know and love is missing. Lynn's mill has a handle that looks like a crank, going to a tube inside the tower. The control rail that runs along the top of the later models is missing, too. If I remember right, the first MD I saw was like that, and it is a 1978 model. It works fine, but you had to let the mill go all the way to the end of the track, and auto-reverse for the return trip. I'm sure that Sawmill_John can clear this up for us.

BTW, that '78 mill is still going strong. It has built houses for every member of the owner's huge family. There are six boys and seven girls, and they are working on the second generation of housing.
"I don't feel like an old man.  I feel like a young man who has something wrong with him."  Dick Cavett
"Beat not thy sword into a plowshare, rather beat the sword of thine enemy into a plowshare."

Frank_Pender

Dang, you are corrrect.  With that vintage there was a trip cord to help the carrage return quicker, I believe, rather than going all the way to the end of the track.  I operated on like that for a few weeks before I ordered my first mill.  Ther is not conversion kit for that model, eithr.  It would cost more than it would be worth to try and change one over.  A couple of people out here have thought of doing that nd decided it was easier and cheaper to pruchace a new unit sometime in the future.
Frank Pender

LKasdorf

Mine is just belt drive- no hydrostatic. You can initiate reverse with the big wheel, but the manual suggests clamping a little ramp-block after the end of the log that it will hit to come back.

The mill came with this litte oak piece with a rounded off corner, and a nail stuck in it, and a c-clamp. I figured this was something the former owner rigged up, but this was factory supplied!

The cranks and such that run through the middle of the rail are a mystery to me- Don at the factory said they are used in the "board and block" method, and not in my situation. In any event, they go nowhere and do nothing on mine.

Apparently there is supposed to be a shim that the C channel seats onto? I don't have this, which is why the channel is slipping off the edge. I was thinking I'd fasten to the 4x6 a suitably cut oak strip for the c-channel to nestle on.

I was shocked to find that VW engines like this have no oil filter! Being a fan of bypass oil filters (e.g. MotorGuard), I'm considering installing one on this. Anybody done that?

Frank_Pender

Lynn, I too have the cranking system in my first mill for the board and block system.  When I ordered the unit, the wife insisted on me getting that device as I might have the opportunity to saw such a log.  Well in twelve years of owening the mill I have not had to use it nor would.  I have had some 7' logs in here and have just quartered them with my 066 then put them on the mill bunks with my loader.
Frank Pender

Paul_H

Lynn,
It sounds like your shim blocks must have rotted away.You usually can't see them unless the channel is off.If the mill has been sitting outside a long time,they have probably turned to mush.

My mill has the trip cord for the return.It's a 1979 127.Still going strong after 24 years.It cut 100 mbf  of ties last year,plus a whack of other sizes.
Science isn't meant to be trusted it's to be tested

oakiemac

Hey lynn, I think you have a great mill there. I just bought a '94 model 12xls which had been sitting outside and looks very similar condition as yours. Mine has metal cross beams instead of the wood. Was the engine well covered or stored indoors? I guess these engines have problems with moisture collecting in the cylinders if not covered properly.
I just bought a small portable sandblaster to remove all the rust and loose paint then I'm going to paint and lube all componets and I should be in buisness. After turning the crank to raise and lower the carraige, I'm definately considering the electric lift option. I can see how this would be hard have sawing all day. I'm also considering different options on log loading. I'll probably start off with ramps and a v chain moved by a come along, but some sort of hyd. system or the electric hoist option that MD makes might be good.
Well good luck.
Mobile Demension sawmill, Bobcat 873 loader, 3 dry kilns and a long "to do" list.

Weekend_Sawyer

 Hi Lynn, Welcome!

Looks like you got a good project to work on.
I am right up the road in Laurel Maryland. Good to see some more Eastern folks joining up.
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

LKasdorf

I plan to totally restore this thing with an pressure-pot sandblaster and a blast cabinet. I picked up a gallon of Allis Chalmers orange at Tractor Supply that I'll spray with an HVLP gun. Last night I got the rotted cross beams off, and freed up the end stand sliders. I have some pine 4x6's that I'll replace them with. I plan to coat the ends with preservative, then paint.

One of the endstand supports (not the pipe) suffered a bend, so that the support is straight, but not parallel to the others. Gotta figure a way to re-align the welded support bracket.

The engine appears to have been covered pretty well. I don't know about moisture in the cylinders, but it runs very well with no smoke. I think it was started periodically. The battery is from 2001 an dworks fine after I charge dit up, so the engine is probably fine. I plan to re-torque the heads and adjust the valves soon. One engine problem is the cooling shroud, which has rusted away at the bottom. I'll need to patch this up with sheet metal or fiberglass.

I may consider some sort of motor drive for the elevation after I use it a bit. I'll see if I can scare up another winch motor, or maybe use a reversable AC motor (which I have several of) and cobble up a gear down mechanism from my vast stores of junk.

This mill has the factory winch with cables and chains for puling logs up onto the cross beams. These beams have a notch affair cut in the ends, presumably to match up with some sort of ramp.

I figure that once I get a shelter built for this, I'll fashion a platform that matches up with the cross beams. I'm hoping that maybe someday I'll get some logs brought in on a big truck and offloaded right onto this platform, so they would not have to be lifted again.

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