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Service on a Wood Mizer mill.

Started by MartyParsons, November 20, 2015, 09:52:50 PM

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Ironmower

This is great info, I took in all I could at the open house you all had a couple weeks ago. Thanks
WM lt35 hd 950 JD

AnthonyW

Quote from: MartyParsons on November 24, 2015, 06:29:49 AM
Hello,
  I will get some pictures of the side supports. I am not sure what the angle gauge you are referring to. Just a reminder that the side supports are tilted in at the top about 1/16".

M

Marty,

Instead of using a square to align the backstops, this time I tried using my Wixey Digital Angle gauge.

http://www.wixey.com/anglegauge/#wr300

Have you or anyone else used this for the backstops? I thought it worked terrifically. It seems to me it takes three hands to adjust the angle if you try to kep the stop vertical while you do it. Since the adjustment is so small, I could move the stop towards the down position until it read 90 degrees and then tighten the adjuster. When raised to vertical, it was still reading 90 degrees.
'97 Wood-Mizer LT25 All Manual with 15HP Kohler

MartyParsons

Hello,
   Anthony I did check out the link and I am not sure exactly how it works. The next one I do I will take pictures of the process as the manual states.

Here are some other things we have learned. Wood Mizer changed this in late 2004. This mill in the picture is a 2001 LT40. In 9/2004 WM made a cover to prevent access for small creatures.



 

Rodents enter the control box here where the wires come out of the tube. As you can see if you stuff the hole with Steel Wool they can not enter and if you need to get back in to remove the wires you just remove the stuffing.



 



 

Pretty simple fix.
It is not real fun opening up the control box and have eyes looking back at you and more than that lots of bare wires. The last one ( in the picture) smelled so bad I sprayed etching acid all over the wires and the control box then washed it with hot water. It did help. I also spent about 3 hours repairing the wires and replacing the conduit.
There is also a bacteria carried by rodents that could make you real sick.

Hope this helps.

Not sure if you want to keep this thread going or start a new one. I was working a a Lube Mizer system and have some tips and tricks with pictures. What do you think? Start a new thread or keep this going?


Marty

"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

beenthere

Because steel wool rusts away, I'd go with copper wool instead. Might be less temporary.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Woodey

Thanks for sharing all the pictures and information Marty.

My thoughts, keep everything in this thread that pertains to servicing the Wood Mizer Mill.

I will be Bookmarking this one. :)



WOODMIZER LT40HDD34CAT w/accuset
JLG SKYTRAK 6036 Telescopic Forklift
NYLE L200 KILN
BAKER M412 MOULDER

Peter Drouin

Quote from: Woodey on December 04, 2015, 12:43:22 AM
Thanks for sharing all the pictures and information Marty.

My thoughts, keep everything in this thread that pertains to servicing the Wood Mizer Mill.

I will be Bookmarking this one. :)








x2
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Ga Mtn Man

I'd use 100% stainless-steel wool.  It's often marketed for pest-proofing use.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

MartyParsons

Hello,
   Here is a Lube Mizer option that was needing some help. The owner did attempt to repair some leaks with some epoxy. I would guess it froze, -20 degree windshield washer fluid helps prevent damage. There is some washer fluid that is blue and only good for cleaning windows. Read the label if you are in an area prone to freezing.



 

There are only two nuts holding the assembly on. Some times it is much easier to work with off the mill.

There are two check valves in this system. The one at the left shown is a 6 psi check valve, ( Barbed Ends) this is there in case there is a plugged nozzle or a kink in the line. There are arrows on the check valves and they are hard to see. Make sure if you are working on this you take a picture or document the arrow direction.
If you take these apart there are o-rings inside and you can turn the valve and the arrow showing the direction will not help if you get the valve in the incorrect way.




  

The other check valve is at the top of the picture under the flange. This one is not the easiest to work with. If your lube keeps dripping when the pump is not engaged or when the key switch is off. The valve could be stuck, or o-ring may be missing.   



  

There is the filter to keep the water clean, the nozzles will make your day longer if the water gets dirty. Bleach the water bottle if it gets green inside. The bowl is available separate there is also a green o-ring seal inside the bowl. It does not come with the new bowl. Most times you can reuse the o-ring but you got to save it. The bowl will be the first thing to freeze.



 

The check valves are available and I would keep a set in my spare parts box, the T fittings are also had to find and very inexpensive compared to driving around to find something to keep going. The plastic gets hard over time when exposed to the weather and harsh environments.
The left check valve with the 1/8" pipe threads is the 3 psi # 033449
The check valve on the right is barbed ends 6 psi. part # 033448
The T fitting is barbed on three sides. #033441
The T fitting that has one end 1/8" pipe is # 033452
The long hose not shown is # 033456. Some owners will splice a rubber hose into the line to prevent breakage if it catches on a log, it will pull apart instead of damaging the tube.
The braided hose # 033456 and 033455 two different lengths.

The pump is pretty good unit. We do see some failures on a mill that has not been used for sometime. The inside will rust. There is a magnet like any small motor and it welds to the armature to the magnet. SO run the mill and the pump at least once a month.

Hope this helps!!

I have some pictures of the hydraulic pump motors next if you are interested in more.

Marty 

"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

Magicman

Oh yes.  You can not stop until you are finished.   :P

No job is complete until the paper work is done.  ;) (old saying) 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

MartyParsons

Hello,
there has been some discussion about grease fittings. Here is how we take care of this issue.



  

Here is a picture of the loading arm, there are three grease fittings only one needed to be replaced. Sometimes you need to remove the pin to get the old grease out. Sometimes I use a propane torch, and when it gets real bad I use the big heat.



  

Once you get the old fitting drilled out with the 7/32 drill then use the 1/4" 28 tap. I have one tap with the end ground off. I start with the starter tap till the tap hits the pin, then use the modified tap. Ok you see the drill motor with the tap on the end.  :o  If you break off the tap don't call me.  I did not show you this!  I have the drill motor set with the slip set low. If the tap gets tight stop back up and go slowly in again.



 



  

OK hope this helps. Using the grease gun often prevents lots of labor. If you have a tight grease gun end they will also pull out the press in fittings.
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

beenthere

Good, except use a hand-held T handle on the tap...not in a drill.
Going the hand-held route, one has a much better "feel" of resistance and can stop, back out, and continue tapping with less fear of breaking the tap off.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Ga Mtn Man

Quote from: MartyParsons on January 02, 2016, 07:53:11 AM...Ok you see the drill motor with the tap on the end.  :o  If you break off the tap don't call me.  I did not show you this!  I have the drill motor set with the slip set low. If the tap gets tight stop back up and go slowly in again.
"If the women don't find you handsome they should at least find you handy." - Red Green


2012 LT40HDG29 with "Superized" hydraulics,  2 LogRite cant hooks, home-built log arch.

Kbeitz

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

wesdor

Fantastic resource.  This demonstrates to commitment Woodmizer has to sawing.  Makes me happy I opted to purchase a Woodmizer three years ago.

THANKS

Magicman

Sure, and there are threads and links here detailing their use.


 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Kbeitz

I've used one for years and i was wondering it people here knew about them.
You can also buy them to fit air chisels.

Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

MartyParsons

Hello,
I have one of these tools in my box. I get it out from time to time. I really have not been successful with it. I think by the time I get the equipment it is way beyond any cheap fix.  Frequently we remove the pins and make everything work. Heat works but makes the paint a little black. I am not saying you should not use this tool, if you use the grease gun more frequently you may not need it.  ;)

During the training with a new customer I have this saying. Did you ever see the Wizard of Oz movie? There is a wood cutter ( Tin Man) rusting away in the woods. Dorthy saves him with an oil can, Right? You need to be Dorthy at least once in awhile.

Hope this helps.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

tnaz

You need to be Dorthy at least once in a while.
Grease is GOOD.

Thanks for a great thread.
tnaz

Chuck White

Welcome to the Forestry Forum, tnaz.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

tnaz

Thanks, I look and read a lot just don't type well.

MartyParsons

Hello,
Lets discuss hydraulic pump motor maintenance. The Wood Mizer manual states that you should check the pump motor brushes every how many hours? Here is a copy of what the manual states.
Maintenance Hydraulic System
Replace the hydraulic system cartridge filter every 500 hours of operation.
Inspect the hydraulic pump motor brushes every 750 hours of operation. Remove brushdust and replace the brushes if they worn to a length of 1/4" (6mm) or shorter. CAUTION!
Do not operate the hydraulic system if the pump motor brushes are worn shorter than 1/4" (6mm). Damage
to the pump motor may result.



 

This mill came to us with 2001 hours.



 

LT40 Super Hydraulic two pumps.
Owner said the hydraulics were slow. It was still working. I asked him when was the last time he checked the pump motor brushes? He had a puzzled look.



 
Here are the motors removed. Some take the motor and pump and tank out as an assembly. It is much easier just to remove the motor. These are the Iskra motors. The early mills have a Monarch motors and brush kits are not available through WM. You can get the Monarch motors rebuilt at a alternator shop. 



  

We have the armature, aluminum end cap, brush holder and the housing with the magnets.
Disassembly of the motor. Step one, loosen the nut on the back of the housing and remove, there should of been a ground wire attached to the nut. next-  Loosen the nut that the positive wire was attached to the stud on the end cap. on the other end pry the armature loose from the end cap, ( there is a o-ring holding the bearing in the end cap), you should now be able to remove the end cap, it may be tight do not pry, a little goes a long way. If you force it you will break the brush holder. WM does have these available.
Next is cleaning. I have used brake clean, pressure washer and we just purchased a hot water parts washer ( Think dish washer on steroids) that works awesome for this job.



 

As you can see here the armature needs a visit to the lathe, this is what may happen if you do not check or change the brushes in a little less time than 2000 hours.



 

Here is a picture of the armature after it was turned on the lathe.



 



 

Ok ready for assembly.

When installing the motor to the pump, you must have the male and female ends aligned. Never ever tighten the bolts to pull the motor into the pump. I have seen a few hydraulic pumps damaged if the lugs are not aliened.

Here is the contact strip mounted to the side of the frame.
The positive wire is soldered to the copper strip. The bolt at the end just keeps the copper strip from sliding. If you install a metal bolt to hold the wire in place you may be changing the fuses in the fuse box.



 

 

 



 

Here is the repaired strip ready to go back on the mill.

These pictures are from more than one mill in the last few months.

Hope this helps.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

MartyParsons

Hello,
  Here are some tips on gasoline engine.  The customer dropped this early WM mill off last week. I think it is a 1987 LT40. It looks rough but it has some up grades. He said the engine would not idle with out the choke pulled out half way. His comment was don't do any more repair until you see if the engine is worth while fixing.
I put the battery in the mill and was expecting the worse. Pulled the choke and the engine fired on the first turn. I pushed the choke in and the engine stopped. Removed the top of the carburetor and found water.


 

In this picture I have removed the pilot jet, it would be in the small hole on the left. I would guess this only took a few min to get to this point. Take compressed air and blow out the junk.
Next step is to find out where the water came from. I drained the fuel tank into a white bucket. This is what you may find.



 

That mark at the top of the bucket is not a stain it is the water.

We replaced the original fuel tank with a new one. We had to bend the original bracket a little to make it fit but it looked pretty good.



 

After this we started the engine, ran great. Called the customer and he was expecting the engine to be bad? I said your mill is running good. He then gave me a list of a few other things that need addressed. As you may see the brake strap is a little frayed. The up down motor is a little weak.

Hope this helps.
Have a great day.

Marty
"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

LoneDuck

Just wanted to say thank you for this great info. Just started to get my mill ready to start cutting and this helped out a lot. Also opened my eyes to other things that need to be done. I got the mill used and been trying to get a good maintenance schedule for it. This is will help greatly and is greatly appreciated.

will49766

This is worth bringing to the top.  Lots of great info here.  Thanks for doing this Marty.
Will Houghmaster

moodnacreek

Those battery cable ends are a bad idea, understand if that is what was at hand but should not be pictured.

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