acme threaded rod and nuts???

Dan_Shade · August 02, 2005, 11:28:26 PM

I want to redo my clamp system on my sawmill, I want to set it up to use a threaded rod to move the clamp in and out, problem is the only place I know of that sells acme stuff is mcmaster carr, and wow is it expensive stuff...

Anybody have a place for cheap acme, I don't mind the coin for the good rod, but I can't see paying $8/nut and up...

Rockn H · August 02, 2005, 11:34:35 PM

Dan, are you talking about all-thread? I don't think I follow you.

Dan_Shade · August 02, 2005, 11:36:50 PM

i want to use 3/4-6 threaded rod, which is a bit oddball, but it's a standard "acme" thread. acme rods are ground a bit better, will last longer, and are typically a better material.

regular allthread isn't very stiff, and may bend up if I use it for a clamp.

I want to come up with something similar to what Fla._Deadheader has for his mill. only i'm gonna use my trusty drill as a motor, and tighten it down with a wrench

Rockn H · August 02, 2005, 11:55:29 PM

How long does it need to be? Some scissor jacks have 2' all-thread and are only a couple bucks at the junk yard. I bought a 4' piece of 1/2" grade 8 from a local supply house for around $15, planing on using it for some manual toe boards. I know this is probably useless info, but just a thought.

woodbowl · August 02, 2005, 11:57:06 PM

Allthread or threaded rod will bind and wear away with repeated use because it has a tapered thread. Under a load it does what it is designed to do. It locks with a wedge/friction fit. ACME thread has a flat 90 degree shoulder and glides smooth under load. Check with your local fastner services. It's high dollar stuff alright but it sounds like that's what you need. Let us know how it turns out.

Buzz-sawyer · August 03, 2005, 12:05:55 AM

Acme is the good stuff....BUT it wears out fairly quick under constant use...I know a guy who designed a oil bath for them for his up/down for thier milss.

Rockn H · August 03, 2005, 12:07:45 AM

Ok, I've seen that type thread. I always say you have to draw me a picture. I see what you want now Dan. I was just copying WM design for my toe boards. No thought input on my part. :D :D

Paul_H · August 03, 2005, 01:06:58 AM

Don't feel too bad Rockn,when I saw Acme,just couldn't help picturing Wile E Coyote

Jason_WI · August 03, 2005, 01:37:04 AM

Surplus center has this:

http://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2005080300323025&item=1-1746&catname=powerTrans

Not sure how long you need though...

Jason

fstedy · August 03, 2005, 04:11:40 AM

Try Travers Tool Co.
https://www.travers.com/index.asp
or MSC Direct
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/N2DRVSH?SISHNO=100897&SISRCH=2&SIS0NO=65318&SIT4NO=519764&SIOR=1
Do a search on these sites for Acme Threaded rod and nuts they have good quality products and reasonable prices and shipping is very fast.

mike_van · August 03, 2005, 05:41:28 AM

When I first built the lift for the head on my mill, I used 1"x8 v thread rod & 3 nuts welded together on each side -- It lasted for about a week, even well greaded. Plan B was 1 1/8" Acme rod running in brass nuts, been on there for years & years now. Pretty sure the rod came from Travers & the brass nuts from Mcmaster-carrr - Someone told me you want to use different metals - brass, steel - for something like this, if they are the same they tend to "gall" each other till they seize - The Acme is the same used in house jacks, 10 or 12 will lift an entire house. It's well worth what they charge for it, I haven't messed with it in 10+ years.

Fla._Deadheader · August 03, 2005, 06:29:59 AM

We used steel nuts (3) welded together on steel threaded rod. 1" is what we have, from MSC. We squirt drain oil on it every day we use it. It will NOT gald if ya oil it. Cast Iron and Stainless will gald real quick.

Dan_Shade · August 03, 2005, 07:22:18 AM

i was going to use 4140 rod, and a brass nut. haven't figured out what I want to do for oil, since it's so dusty...

If I were rich, I'd just use ball screws, but then again, if I were rich, I wouldn't be fooling around with a cheap mill!

shopteacher · August 03, 2005, 09:32:12 AM

Acme rod and nuts can be purchased at Enco. A 3 foot 7/8" X 6 thread is $8.89.

http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRHM

tnlogger · August 03, 2005, 10:42:17 AM

just a thought here would an actuator from a big c-band dish work on something like this. I know they have pretty good power and their 12volt.
muddled thoughts from a bored mind ;D

Fla._Deadheader · August 03, 2005, 11:32:05 PM

Waayyyyy too slow.

Dan_Shade · August 03, 2005, 11:36:16 PM

i'm really trying to keep my stuff as "simple" as possible. but i'm seeing that not having a motor may be a bit more trouble than I had anticipated...

holding a cant up and then tightening the clamp down using a drill from below may be a real pain. then I thought maybe I can put a worm drive on there so I can do it from above, then realized how slow worm drives are....

ARGHHH!!!!

i guess I'll end up with a batter that will always be dead on my saw. :-\

Brucer · August 04, 2005, 01:38:01 AM

There's different qualities of Acme threads. Some are for occasional use (like car jacks and clamps). Others are for frequent use in industrial machines. Guess which cost more.

Unlubricated, brass on steel has less than half the friction of steel on steel. Lubricated, steel on steel is slightly better (about 20% of dry steel on steel). Grease is a poor lubricant for open threads around a sawmill. Automatic transmission fluid seems to work well. A spray-on dry PTFE (teflon) lubricant doesn't attract sawdust or dirt, and is really slippery.