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Blade cooling/lubricant jungle

Started by Tarzan, March 18, 2009, 03:52:22 PM

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Tarzan

A simple question from an unexperienced band saw operator. What kind of fluid should I cool the blade with while sawing? plain water? or is it worth buying the exotic cocktails they sell at my suplier. The old folks around here used diesel earlier!!! But thats absolutely not an option. I know about products that reduce the sap from pine sticking to the blade, but white oak is what we mostly saw here.
Small sawmill operating a Forestor 800 horizontal bandmill

WH_Conley

I have not found anything cheaper than water. Not doing good enough, just put a little more on.
Bill

medic

Try water with a little dish detergent mixed in. 
scott
Retired Paramedic, TimberKing 1400, Logrite cant hooks, old MacCullough chain saws.  Too many projects not enough hours in the day.

Chico

Wh is dead on nothing can beat the cooling qualities of water and remember EPA can jump you for using any solvent or unapproved substances All it takes is one a hole to start a prob
Chico
My Daughter My sailor MY HERO God Bless all the men and Women fighting for us today If you see one stop and thank them

moonhill

I am not aware of the problem of the blade being too hot, you should have enough set in the band and no friction to cause heat build up.  Someone can correct me it this is wrong. 

I used to use diesel the cut the pitch, just a drip, drip, drip.  I tried water once and had to run it at a constant stream, so I stuck with diesel.  Now with the new fuel I am bothered by the smell, it just is not the same, it actually irritates me.  The other day I read a suggestion by Tom, one of many informed moderators here one the forum, he suggested water and a bit of soap.  I tried this today and am very happy with the results.  I am assuming my previous trial failed because I used no soap/detergent.  It even has a pleasant smell, it is cheaper, and cut the pitch just fine.  Detergent makes water wetter, I am guessing it effects the pitch build up more efficiently, by soaking in better. 

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

Chico

The only thing soap does is soften the water reducing cavitation and adds a cling factor to it and may cut some sap better . You do create heat in a saw regardless to set and sharpness you have a minute amt of slippage regardless of how tight your belts or how high saw strain may be If you saw long enough hard enough it's more noticeable It's not always bothersome but can be. Also as the corner wears the kerf diminishes and not only does water cool it also serves to clean which is helpful
imo
Chico
My Daughter My sailor MY HERO God Bless all the men and Women fighting for us today If you see one stop and thank them

Ironwood

I use water/ detergent, and on another mill diesel.

Ironwood
There is no scarcity of opportunity to make a living at what you love to do, there is only scarcity of resolve to make it happen.- Wayne Dyer

Tim/South

I do not have the years of experience as others here and I also saw mostly pine. My approach may not help much but I will throw my .02 in.
The man we bought our band mill from used water and dish soap.
I tried Diesel/Chain bar oil mixed 50/50 at my father's suggestion.  I only ran one tank of that before trying something else. I settled on water and Pine Sol. I run a pretty good drip.
I have milled mostly pine and have not had a problem with any build up.

A friend of mine only mills utility poles. He has never used anything other than straight water.


bandmiller2

Tarzan,have you tried a well set band and no lube/coolant.??My partner and i cut with a mizer 70 elect.no lube we have never had any problems.We cut white pine ,some dripping sap ,and oak also makes cleanup easier.Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

ladylake

 
  Diesel in the winter, lots of water in the summer. I've never had any luck cutting without lube and it sure runs quieter with lube and has to be easyier on the band.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

moonhill

They sure do make a lot of noise when the pitch/dust builds up. 

I am still not sold on the cooling factor, there should not be slippage of the band on the wheel.  If it is minimal, that should not be enough to create damaging heat.    The drive belts, I could see.  I have had my drive belts slip and stall the band in wide pine, just pushing it too fast.  I also liked the diesel for the lubrication of the guide bearings, I may soak them ever few days in a can of oil.

Tim
This is a test, please stand by...

ljmathias

I use water plus dish soap and this works great for hard and softwoods.  Heat build up is a real problem: I can watch the pressure on my blade drop if I'm cutting wide lumber or pushing too fast- the blade gets hot, expands and the pressure drops.  Never had the blade stop though because the belts slip, although this could happen with sawdust build up between the blade and the wheel, I guess- motor bogs down before that happens.  And don't forget what has been mentioned elsewhere on the forum: when cutting really wide lumber or logs, sawdust removal via the gullets is the hold up- you just can't get it out fast enough to keep cutting fast, and this leads to heat build up and wavy cuts.  I have found that lube seems to help some for this but not much.  When all is said and done, you just have to try lots of stuff till you find what works for you and your mill and the wood you have to cut- that's what makes it challenging and fun!

Lj
LT40, Long tractor with FEL and backhoe, lots of TF tools, beautiful wife of 50 years plus 4 kids, 5 grandsons AND TWO GRANDDAUGHTERS all healthy plus too many ideas and plans and not enough time and energy

Chuck White

Last year, I took a suggestion and filled my water jug (almost full) then added a cup of used cooking oil and then added 4-5 tablespoons of Dawn dish soap.

The theory was that the soap would allow the water and oil to emulsify and lubricate and cool the blade.
This worked ok but not perfectly, because by the end of our sawing season, there was about 2 inches of oil (turned to grease because of cold weather) floating on top of the water mixture.

This year, I plan to use water and Pine Sol.  This way I won't have the oily build-up in my water jug, and the Pine Sol should keep the blade clean and the water should keep it cool.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

sparks

Remember you are not cooling the blade. You are cleaning and lubricating it to pass through the cut with less resistance. The lube helps clean the buildup off the blasde. Thanks
\"America will never be destroyed from the outside. If we falter and lose our freedoms, it will be because we destroyed ourselves.\" Abraham Lincoln

ladylake

 The only time I've had trouble with heat is when I was cutting snowy logs and must have run through a pile of dirt and the blade got real dull in a hurry. Even the guide wheels got warm. Put on a sharp blade and back to normal.   Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Modat22

I use a squirt or two of dish soap and a quarter cup of pinesol.
remember man that thy are dust.

Tarzan

Thank you for the overwhelming response, the only difference I have noticed with or without water, is the noise going up without water. I am absolutely going to try with a bit of dish soap in. Thank you. :)
Small sawmill operating a Forestor 800 horizontal bandmill

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