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Help decide on a MileMarker winch

Started by kelLOGg, October 11, 2013, 06:22:51 AM

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kelLOGg

I have a shot at a used MM on Craigslist for $225. Looks like an SEC8. It sounds pretty cheap but from the picture it looks new. I have seen ads for new ones ranging from ~$300 to $500. Reviews (on Amazon) have not been stellar http://www.amazon.com/Mile-Marker-77-50141-Electric-Winch/product-reviews/B00332YKAI

Owners on the FF have raved about the MM. What do you think of the SEC8? It's got plenty of pull (8000 lbs) but my concern is it a bottom-of-the-line model that draws off the good name of MM.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

BBTom

MileMarker made its name on its hydraulic winch that runs off of the power steering pump, it is the winch everyone raves about.  I have no idea if the electric winch is any good or not, my experience with any manufacturers electric winches is not a happy one.
2001 LT40HDD42RA with lubemizer, debarker, laser, accuset. Retired, but building a new shop and home in Missouri.

bandmiller2

Kel, a lot depends on what your using the winch for, electric winches are always over rated and for intermittent use only. Many times a good industrial quality come-along will work well and then your the only duty cycle. Check with any large towing co. they use real hydraulic winches and most have used spares under the bench. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

kelLOGg

BM2, I will use it for parbuckling. 8000 lbs is overkill for my operation so it will be under-utilized probably all the time.
Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

mikeb1079

bob i'm in a similar situation in regards to the occasional parbuckling of logs and a lack of a real (ie hydraulic) winch.   :)  i have both a 3500 and an 8500lb super winch.  i would imagine that the build quality between mile marker and super winch is pretty similar.  the 8500lb winch i've had for awhile and has held up pretty well.  the 3500 i used for the first time the other day and it worked fine but frankly it looks like a toy that your nephew might find under the Christmas tree.   :D :D

anyways, i think that as long as your using it occasionally and don't expect too much you'll be just fine. 
;)
that's why you must play di drum...to blow the big guys mind!
homebuilt 16hp mill
99 wm superhydraulic w/42hp kubota

clww

I've had my MM 9500 # winch on my truck since 2006. I'm unsure of the model number after all this time. It's operated as needed anytime I've required it, and I have pulled some HEAVY trees, with the cable going through 3 snatch blocks before, too. I think I paid between $450 and $550 for it when I purchased it new. If you could get one at the price you wrote, I would not hesitate.
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

kelLOGg

Well, I bought it and am in the process of mounting it to my trailer. (It will replace a Rule gas winch which didn't have enough pull.) More to follow when I finish the mounting.

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

clww

Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

kelLOGg

It is installed on the trailer.

 

I can mount it on either side to parbuckle from either side.


 

It has plenty of pull; at 8000 lbs it is probably more than I need BUT I am still disappointed in it because it is difficult to freespool. I guess it takes 50 - 60 lbs of force to pull out the cable. I contacted MM and they said to clean out the heavy grease on the ring gear and replace it with motor oil. I did this and it freespools easier but it is still no walk in the park - I give it a pronounced lean and a firm pull to freespool it. I am concerned the lighter oil will not hold up long term but is was MM's instruction.

You're not suppose to use the "out" position on the tethered switch to freespool because the brake in on in that position and it will overheat. The first time I had no choice and the drum got so hot I could not touch it after freespooling 40 feet. Does anyone have any experience here?

It seems to me that it would not be a very big deal to have a tethered switch with an "in" position which would turn the brake off and motor on to reel in cable, "off" which would turn the motor off and brake on, and "out" which would reverse the motor and turn the brake off. Maybe I'm missing something, but I can't understand why MM didn't do that. I may undertake this myself. Any ideas?

Bob
Cook's MP-32, 20HP, 20' (modified w/ power feed, up/down, loader/turner)
DH kiln, CatClaw setter and sharpener, tandem trailer, log arch, tractor, thumb tacks

Magicman

I have 3 MileMarker winches.  The 8 and the 12 are very easy to freespool.  The 9.5 is difficult like you described and as you stated, you can't "power the line out".
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

clww

I have no issue pulling mine out in the free-spool mode.
Many Stihl Saws-16"-60"
"Go Ask The Other Master Chief"
18-Wheeler Driver

thecfarm

Good idea about using it on either side.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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