Is it just me, or does everyone have this problem?

Dave Shepard · March 07, 2015, 11:05:45 AM

It is my understanding that the WM belt is made specifically for WM, and only available from WM. They are cheaper from WM than the parts store anyway. I run stock B57 belts, and only take them off because of damage or to remove pitch glumps.

redprospector · March 07, 2015, 11:44:30 AM

Quote from: trapper on March 07, 2015, 10:02:56 AM
redprospector went through your part of the country 2 weeks ago. Stoped at white sands. Sure different than my part of the country.

It's different than just about anywhere I've ever been. Some differences are good, some...not so much. :D
Did you come across the mountains, or stay in the desert during your travels?

4x4American · March 07, 2015, 12:19:17 PM

Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 07, 2015, 11:05:45 AM
It is my understanding that the WM belt is made specifically for WM, and only available from WM. They are cheaper from WM than the parts store anyway. I run stock B57 belts, and only take them off because of damage or to remove pitch glumps.

From what I understand, you just have to buy a Goodyear B57. You can't buy a different brand for sizing reasons.

Bandmill Bandit · March 07, 2015, 04:21:27 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on March 07, 2015, 12:19:17 PM
Quote from: Dave Shepard on March 07, 2015, 11:05:45 AM
It is my understanding that the WM belt is made specifically for WM, and only available from WM. They are cheaper from WM than the parts store anyway. I run stock B57 belts, and only take them off because of damage or to remove pitch glumps.

From what I understand, you just have to buy a Goodyear B57. You can't buy a different brand for sizing reasons.

I been using gates B56 drive side / B57 idler side flat back kevlar and something else composite belts for about 700 hours now. I love em. Seems like 400 to 500 hours a set. The tight one on the drive side has increased band life by at least 20%. No more pitchy sawdust build up under the belt so no more continuos band tension fluctuation from the lumps under the belt.

4x4American · March 07, 2015, 08:32:33 PM

Thanks B. Bandit. The factory rep from TK told me that he has heard from half of the ppl he talks to that Gates belts work and half say they don't. So I wonder if its the kevlar option vs the regular. The guy by me has both gates belts and I wasn't sure which to get. The kevlar is about $10 more I think

ozarkgem · March 07, 2015, 08:42:50 PM

I guess I better change belts. Been 10 yrs since I put them on. What does your band do with bad belts?

4x4American · March 07, 2015, 08:46:40 PM

Quote from: ozarkgem on March 07, 2015, 08:42:50 PM
I guess I better change belts. Been 10 yrs since I put them on. What does your band do with bad belts?

Well I would guess their pants would fall down, but I'm not in a band anymore so I couldn't honestly tell you. We all wore spenders anyhow!

redprospector · March 07, 2015, 08:47:42 PM

Quote from: ozarkgem on March 07, 2015, 08:42:50 PM
I guess I better change belts. Been 10 yrs since I put them on. What does your band do with bad belts?

In my experience, when the belts get worn, hard, or damaged from a blade coming of, etc. the blades won't last too long before breaking.

Bandmill Bandit · March 07, 2015, 09:27:33 PM

Quote from: 4x4American on March 07, 2015, 08:32:33 PM
Thanks B. Bandit. The factory rep from TK told me that he has heard from half of the ppl he talks to that Gates belts work and half say they don't. So I wonder if its the kevlar option vs the regular. The guy by me has both gates belts and I wasn't sure which to get. The kevlar is about $10 more I think

My Napa guy says he finds that the gates kevlar belts have just a bit better wear life as compared to the Good Year comparable belt and they are with in a few cents of each other. I actually have one good year and one gates in my spare parts box right now. B56 is Gates and the B57 is Good Year. both are a kevlar composite belts from what I remember. If they weren't out with my mill I'd go get the numbers off them for y'all.

Red You will notice 2 lines the width of you pulleys on your bands once the belt are worn to where you have metal to metal contact. You DO NOT want to wait that long to change belts and that about a 100 hrs AFTER you should have changed belts. Premature band breakage is one result along with some nasty looking lumber symptoms and blade heating because of reduced blade speed from a slipping band. Wheel belts a very cost effective preventive measure.

trapper · March 07, 2015, 09:32:11 PM

redprospector through the mountains

redprospector · March 07, 2015, 10:20:31 PM

Quote from: Bandmill Bandit on March 07, 2015, 09:27:33 PM
Red You will notice to lines 2 your bands once the belt are worn to where you have metal to metal contact. You DO NOT want to wait that long to change belts and that about a 100 hrs AFTER you should have changed blades. Premature band breakage is one result along with some nasty looking lumber symptoms and blade heating because of reduced blade speed from a slipping band. Wheel belts a very cost effective preventive measure.

Yep, it's just another part of maintenance. I have been guilty of overlooking them once in a while, but try to take care of things.
Most of the wheel belt damage I get is from trying to get too much out of a band. I will sharpen a band many times, and use it until it breaks. When I built my mill I didn't make any room inside the covers. That means almost every time I break a blade I damage a belt. I've got to change my ways. :D

redprospector · March 07, 2015, 10:23:46 PM

Quote from: trapper on March 07, 2015, 09:32:11 PM
redprospector through the mountains

Well, if you went Hwy. 70 through Ruidoso, you were within 30 miles of my house. If you went Hwy. 82 through Cloudcroft, you were within 1/4 mile of my house.
Wish I'd known you were coming through, I would have bought you a cup of coffee.

ozarkgem · March 08, 2015, 05:51:55 AM

Quote from: redprospector on March 07, 2015, 08:47:42 PM
Quote from: ozarkgem on March 07, 2015, 08:42:50 PM
I guess I better change belts. Been 10 yrs since I put them on. What does your band do with bad belts?
In my experience, when the belts get worn, hard, or damaged from a blade coming of, etc. the blades won't last too long before breaking.

I can't remember ever having a blade come off and they usually don't break till after about the 6th sharpening. But I will change the belt anyway. I use the shorter belt and pry it on. Best I remember.

redprospector · March 08, 2015, 10:51:19 PM

Quote from: ozarkgem on March 08, 2015, 05:51:55 AM
Quote from: redprospector on March 07, 2015, 08:47:42 PM
Quote from: ozarkgem on March 07, 2015, 08:42:50 PM
I guess I better change belts. Been 10 yrs since I put them on. What does your band do with bad belts?
In my experience, when the belts get worn, hard, or damaged from a blade coming of, etc. the blades won't last too long before breaking.
I can't remember ever having a blade come off and they usually don't break till after about the 6th sharpening. But I will change the belt anyway. I use the shorter belt and pry it on. Best I remember.

You do realize that you could have just jinxed it by saying that you can't remember ever... :D
Keeping good belts (band tires) on the wheels is just a good idea, and a part of the maintenance on a band saw. I was just mainly surprised that I couldn't find the B-62's that I've been getting for years. But I did learn a new trick from an old goat. Rotating your tires ain't just for your truck. 8)

4x4American · March 08, 2015, 10:59:04 PM

Has anyone tried the kevlar Huskee belts from TSC?

redprospector · March 08, 2015, 11:22:19 PM

TSC here only has A belts.

bandmiller2 · March 09, 2015, 08:28:49 AM

Red, I have found if your covers over the front of the bands are wood they will stop a band fast with no damage if it comes off the wheels. Mine are plywood put together with liquid nails so theirs no hardware to damage the band, you want clearance between the band and cover, Frank C.

4x4American · March 09, 2015, 08:48:36 AM

idk I saw a belt there yesterday that said b56 and one that said b57

blackfoot griz · March 09, 2015, 11:20:11 AM

Both Gates & Goodyear make the B56 & B57 belts. My guess is that one or the other makes belts for TSC, Wood Mizer, John Deere etc. The Gates "Predator" version is reinforced with either kevlar or aramid. I know from industrial experience that the Predators are as tough as they get.

What often gets overlooked if any type of belt is not lasting as long as it should is 1)belt alignment is off or 2) worn sheaves.

coppolajc10 · March 09, 2015, 07:38:29 PM

Gates' website also has a "PowerBack" belt for live roller conveyors. Says belt has a flat back to increase top surface contact. Seems this may have some advantages for a band. Any thoughts on why this would be good/bad for bandmills? Thanks, Jake.

bandmiller2 · March 09, 2015, 08:25:51 PM

Myself I like a rounded back belt, its acts like a crown on a steel band wheel or the crown on a flatbelt pulley. Its been 12 or so years so I forget what belt I used, I think gates green stripe. Of course when your the OEM you have to figure the best belt, I forgot to write a parts manual. Frank C.

redprospector · March 09, 2015, 09:21:46 PM

Quote from: bandmiller2 on March 09, 2015, 08:25:51 PM
Myself I like a rounded back belt, its acts like a crown on a steel band wheel or the crown on a flatbelt pulley. Its been 12 or so years so I forget what belt I used, I think gates green stripe. Of course when your the OEM you have to figure the best belt, I forgot to write a parts manual. Frank C.

Same here, I'm the OEM. My parts manual is in my head...unfortunately there seem to be some pages missing. :D
I have always (and did this time) used NAPA belts, with the "crowned" back for the same reason you mentioned. Seem to work fine.
I need to see if I can figure out how to fit some wooden covers on this thing. But I actually threw a blade today and was able to put it back on and keep sawing. I've got to check my bearings, that's usually the culprit when it starts throwing blades.

4x4American · March 09, 2015, 09:22:00 PM

Quote from: coppolajc10 on March 09, 2015, 07:38:29 PM
Gates' website also has a "PowerBack" belt for live roller conveyors. Says belt has a flat back to increase top surface contact. Seems this may have some advantages for a band. Any thoughts on why this would be good/bad for bandmills? Thanks, Jake.

Give it a shot. From what I've been told, when the band pushes the belt into the groove on the wheel, the belt squeezes and forms a crown. If you give it a try, let us know! Or maybe I'll give it a try.

redprospector · March 11, 2015, 08:26:30 PM

I've been fighting the "creep-N-crud" for the last few days, can't quit coughing. But I got down to the mill today to check the bearings. Everything seemed ok so I sawed some 2x4's out of a small log. I stacked the boards and gave the blade a shot of lube, and BAM...threw the blade.
On further investigation I found that the set screws on the pillow block bearing closest to the band wheel had come loose. Chewed the shaft up pretty good. I just ordered new bearings and a shaft, I should be good as new when they get here.
For anyone building a band saw mill...learn from my mistakes.
1. Use something other than pillow block bearings on the drive side shaft.
2. Allow for some room around the band wheels when designing the covers.
3. If the doors of the cover are made of wood, you'll probably damage fewer
blades.