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Central Boiler Edge 750 Titanium

Started by Logging logginglogging, June 18, 2017, 09:55:46 PM

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Logging logginglogging

Hi Guys,
after using some grease to prevent sticking in warmer weather conditions all was well. I did speak to CB and was told to remove the spring all together, and if it works they would send a longer spring. I asked about warrentee and was told i was safe to do this. I removed the spring and ran a few weeks successfully I then reached out to CB and told them of the successful run time. They said that's good and I actually do not need the spring at all. I have not had any solenoid issues since and have been happy with the boiler. My side arm install did not go that great due to the short hot water heater i have i will need to re-plumb the side arm this spring to be at more of an angle so water can circulate properly by convection. currently the side arm is a little too tall for this. I cleaned the boiler again and tested the water this last weekend and am very happy how easy it is to clean. It did go out that night from a lack of a sufficient cole bed, i re-lit it in the AM and have once again built a proper cole bed and all has been well this week.

1. cleaning tip i learned so far. Inside the reaction chamber there is a plate that just hangs toward the back and is hard to reach and remove and reinstall. If you look it has a 6-8 inch tab off the front of it with a slot. this slot fits the CB provided cleaning hoe perfectly and allows easy removal and install with the hoe. I am sure they intended this (possibly i missed that in the manual).

Logging logginglogging

@Roger2561..... no posts for a while... due to hunting season. i am back..

DDW_OR

Quote from: Logging logginglogging on December 22, 2017, 07:36:03 AM
@Roger2561..... no posts for a while... due to hunting season. i am back..

the real question is, did you have any luck?
"let the machines do the work"

Logging logginglogging

only in bow season....
all rifle and freeloader i was coughing and hacking ....

now its like real winter here... plowing and burning wood..

Roger2561

Logging - I'm happy to hear that your 750 is operating flawlessly now.  Who would of have thought that a simple spring would cause such a headache.  Now that real winter whether has approached us, how is it doing with keeping up with the demand?  We had -8 F this morning in my area of NH and it's supposed to get colder as the week moves along.  Roger
Roger

Logging logginglogging

we have had -20  the last 2 days or so... and its doing just as good as the old boiler did. It seems to burn less wood than the old one as well.

Logging logginglogging

Well so far so good this winter! I haven't had any more solenoid problems since removing the spring on the cover. Its burning well and burning efficiently. It is much easier to clean them my old boiler. Though in the spring i plan to remove air channel covers and such and truly inspect and clean everything. We have had some really cold stretches this winter and its been great. It certainly has now gained all the confidence i had in my old boiler.

747mopar

I'll be following along as I've got one coming too. After some researching I learned that all new models (HD's) come with stepper motors vs solenoids, come standard with stainless fireboxes and WiFi and have a rear door for accessing the heat exchanger so that's what I ordered (750 Edge Titanium HD). Hope it works out for you.

DDW_OR

Quote from: 747mopar on February 12, 2018, 11:51:40 PM
I'll be following along as I've got one coming too. After some researching I learned that all new models (HD's) come with stepper motors vs solenoids, come standard with stainless fireboxes and WiFi and have a rear door for accessing the heat exchanger so that's what I ordered (750 Edge Titanium HD). Hope it works out for you.

I LIKE THOSE UPGRADES

wish i had them, especially the "rear door for accessing the heat exchanger"
"let the machines do the work"

Logging logginglogging

But you have the plate for accessing the heat exchange. and you really should only have to do that once a year anyway at shutdown. As for motors you can convert to those, but you can still have the same problem with them as the solenoid, if the plate sticks down the inrush current can be to much and pop the breaker and possibly burn out the motor if its really stuck down. I can say that the motor would be more expensive to replace than a solenoid.

DDW_OR

Quote from: Logging logginglogging on February 21, 2018, 03:07:45 PM
But you have the plate for accessing the heat exchange. and you really should only have to do that once a year anyway at shutdown. As for motors you can convert to those, but you can still have the same problem with them as the solenoid, if the plate sticks down the inrush current can be to much and pop the breaker and possibly burn out the motor if its really stuck down. I can say that the motor would be more expensive to replace than a solenoid.
my plates are inside and about 30 inches from the front
"let the machines do the work"

Logging logginglogging

So the winter was going pretty good. Got home last night my wife come running out saying "look at the boiler" So i do and its over boiling and steaming....
I turned on all my zones full blast and checked out the boiler. Turns out that solenoid that I was told could be run without the spring was stuck up in the open position. Since I new expect this thing to brake down all the time I have spare parts on hand so i replaced the solenoid AGAIN, like the 4th or 5th one this season. I then waited for the thing to cool down so i could run it normally. So not only am I spending money out of pocket for parts I now have to go buy more of their *DanG expensive chemicals that go in the water since they boiled and steamed out with the water. This has gotten really old. I went with this company because my old boiler by them was trouble free as well as the old one by them that my father has. I guess they don't make them like they used to. Imagine when could have happened if i didn't return yesterday, just last week we left for 24hrs.


747mopar

I haven't started using mine yet so forgive me if I'm not understanding this correctly. This damper door your having trouble with regulates the intake air correct? If it's an intake then this buildup means the draft is traveling the wrong direction? Is it windy where your located? I also see you don't have a chimney cap or at least doesn't look like it? I'm just curious if your getting gust of wind occasionally forcing the exhaust the wrong direction?

My line of thinking is if there's a lot of people out there using these and very few having this issue then you need to start looking at what might be different in your case. Just thinking

DDW_OR

747mopar brings up a good point

is the door for the solenoid kept closed?
is the blower working?

mine does not show black soot on the insulation

"let the machines do the work"

Roger2561

My thought on this is; even it were open, with the cap down air should not be getting into the firebox.  On my 1400 I have a squirrel cage blower attached to the solenoid box.  When the fire star indicates the need for a fire, it turns on the blower and opens the solenoid to allow air into the firebox.  I'm thinking (and I usually get trouble when I do) that even if the door to the solenoid box is closed, as long as the cap on the elbow is open it's allowing passive air to enter the solenoid box through the blower opening.  Granted it'll take longer for the fire to get going but once it starts there's no stopping it as long as the air is allowed to enter the solenoid box.  That's my $0.02.  Roger
Roger

Logging logginglogging

Roger you are correct that's exactly what was happening. Passive air can flow through even without the squirrel cage spinning.

holder73

Did you ever find a fix for this issue or the breaker tripping.  I have had the exact same problem with a 2012 Eclassic 1400.  As soon as firestar controller powers on the breaker trips, I unplugged solenoids one at a time, turning power back on each time til I found the problem to be the secondary high solenoid on my unit.  As long as that solenoid is unplugged everything works.  I tried replacing the solenoid with a spare I had on hand and same thing happened, tripped the breaker on the unit.  I consulted with my dealer and they seemed to think it was the firestar control panel gone bad (it had been through 6 seasons.  So I bought a new firestar II control panel from them, hooked it up, exact same thing happened, breaker tripped as long as that solenoid was connected.  I should also mention that when my problem first began that solenoid was chattering, opening and closing so fast that it was like a rattle, so the lid wasn't stuck with cresote.  On a positive note, I have had the unit running with that solenoid disconnected for 2 weeks and everything is functioning fine, normal burn times, reaction chamber is hitting 1200 degrees, etc.

panolo

Quote from: Logging logginglogging on March 08, 2018, 12:07:20 PM





I used a graphite lube on the arm after I cleaned it with a brake clean and it helped mine. The lube dries so it doesn't collect dust or debris. It also looks like you are getting a bunch of moisture in your burns with the liquid marks on the elbow. I get some buildup on the inside lip but is minor and has never caused a boil over.  Have you checked that elbow for buildup and do you have a bunch of creosote in it? I changed my burn splits to 192-172, 20 degree diff and it cut creosote to almost nil. I have not had my solenoid stick since then. In watching my firestar graphs if I am not getting at least 1150 degrees I know there is an issue. Wetter wood, solenoid not operating, plugged elbow, etc. 

thecfarm

Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

panolo


boilerman101

Holder are you confident the replacement solenoid you installed was new and that it is a good solenoid? Could you ohm in out with a multimeter?

Logging logginglogging

Well I am back, i have been gone a long time due to illness. In the end i solved my solenoid issue but applying WD-40 to the armatures each time i clean the stove. I did have the little bolt to the plate linkage corrode and broke off, i thought this was strange  but it must be the bolt is no stainless. Anyway I actually was able to weld the linkage to the plate thus no bolt is needed so it will never happen again.

I did this fix last year and forgot, its (bolts) , yes two of them
here are the two bolts i replaced.




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