Edging paneling

[Jacar]

I am finally starting a new project, remodeling our garage into a master bedroom.   8) 8)I am going to saw as much lumber for the project as I can.  Everything from paneling to bathroom cabinets.

The first thing I am going saw is the paneling for the walls and and ceiling.  I have a lot of SYP for this.
 
1. What thickness would yall recommend?
2. What MC should I dry to in solar kiln?
3. After drying what is best way to edge join 12' boards?

I have a 6' long jig I use on my table saw for shorter lumber.  I could put them back on the mill(TK1220), but I would like to eliminate a lot of double handling.  Move wood shed to mill to workshop to garage......................  >:(

Any other ideas about preparing the paneling and installing it would help.  Installation(vertical or horizontal) has not been decided by wife yet.  Not sure which looks best or what would be easiest.

Thanks,

Jacar

[Norm]

That's a great idea Jacar, I'm thinking of doing the same thing but making mine into a bigger kitchen. Our cars sit outside anyways.

I would make the boards 5/8" thick although the stuff you buy is usually 3/8
Dry to 8%
T&G the edges, or a beadboard detail
Might kick around the idea of running it on a diagonal.

If you have a backer board blind nail the tounge and glue with construction adhesive on the back.

[beenthere]

Jacar
About jointing an edge of long panelling boards; I had a woodworking shop make panelling for me many years ago, and he had a long workbench set up with a vertical head with jointer knives (like a shaper head) mounted in the back splash of his long work bench. It was set to take probably about 1/8" off. He would drop the board to be edged jointed flat onto the bench, and move it past the head. He did this with flooring boards as well.  I could see it was easy jointing to have the flat of the boards laying on the bench. Takes a long bench, which ran the length of one side of his shop.
  
I've always had it in my mind to make something similar, and have not quite finished the project. I think my biggest problem, if I had that bench space, would be to keep it clean enough to use it when I needed it.  

[rbarshaw]

My Grandfather had paneled his living room with 12" squares of pine with the points of the square up/down and side to side. I think they were all T&G. It was a very beautiful effect. I saw it about 25 years ago as a child. It was so unusual that it has stuck with me all these years. The house burned along time ago. The squares were all raised about 1/4" at the center and tapered to the edges.

[Tex-saw]

Jacar,I just recently did my uncles new game room all in knotty syp,the best way we come up with to staight line the boards although its a little extra handleing >:( was to put them back on the mill and take just a little off to have a perfecly straight edge to run aginst the fence on our woodmaster 18"planer with the 2 blade ripsaw attachment this makes a perfecly straight board with smooth edges,I got straight boards up to 16',he wanted it run horizontal and it turned out awsome,but the drawback to this is the boards have to be cut many differnt lenghts to brake on the studs at differant places,after seeing it run vertical,I think it would be alot faster,take 10-12" wide boards cut them the height of your walls,put in some dead wood to nail to then take 1/2"x2 strips and cover the cracks this way also makes it less crucial to have staight boards,kind of like b&b inside,we planed all ours to 3/4 but I think 5/8 would be fine,we trimed it all out with erc that I run a profile on the routertable,then we put 2 coats clear gloss poly on the whole thing, the project turned out very nice everyone that walks in is shocked and comments how beautiful it is 8)