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Outboard shaper fence what do you use??

Started by hillbillyhogs, May 24, 2013, 12:37:54 PM

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hillbillyhogs

What do you guys use for an outboard shaper fence?  Clamps and a board or do have something better?

THANKS

downsouth

I just scored a little delta router/shaper table. I'm in the process of extending the table and putting a longer fence on it. It has a split fence,maybe 3-3 1/2" high. Maybe 12" long on each side of the cutter head. I was thinking of making a single,long fence,6" high out of some QS red oak. The other fences have T slots and wing nuts, but with only one on each fence it's pretty hard to set accurately. I will still use the slots but need to figure out something additional to hold it down good. I have seen a lot of people just clamp it down on each side.
  Do you have a fence on the shaper or do you need to make one? Does it have T slots on it where the fence was.
   Sorry about the long post, but I have been thinking about this fence/table thing for a few days and have a few ideas, but have not built it yet.

Larry

Clamps and a board.  I keep a block of paraffin handy to make it slicker.
Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

Al_Smith

I have an older Sears 12" direct drive table saw .With both wings out on the table it's 8 feet wide .On the end of the fence system I  table mounted a 3.5HP plunge router .On the back side of the fence I mounted a straight section of pine to act as a guide for the router portion .

I have plans to build a sliding T square but have yet to get that done .Too many other irons in the fire .

If you are going to make say rail and stile joints you need something that will really hold the piece in rigidly  while making the cuts .

Al_Smith

On this jointery subject I also have an older 9" Craftsman radial arm saw with the moulding head .While it's not as good as an actual shaper it will get the job done .

The radial arm really isn't used for much any more except using the moulding head and it does have a homemade sliding T square .It does raised panals pretty well but they take some time and patience to turn out well .

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: Larry on May 24, 2013, 09:51:20 PM
Clamps and a board.  I keep a block of paraffin handy to make it slicker.

Are you unsing a feeder as well?

Larry

Feeder is a must when running against an outboard fence.  A picture from my gallery.  The stock fence is in place for dust collection only.

Larry, making useful and beautiful things out of the most environmental friendly material on the planet.

We need to insure our customers understand the importance of our craft.

hillbillyhogs

Yeah,  I was just wondering if the board/clamps would handle the feeder forcing material against them over and over again. THANKS LARRY

Peter Drouin

I put the shaper and the radial arm saw in line, with a wood top I can put a feather boad any where I want, I think the hole thing is 14' long, with the door open and the hole in the wall I can do 20+ feet :D :D


 
Good luck

A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

t f flippo

hbh, What's an 'out board fence' ? I use feather boards a lot when feeding by hand. And when using the power feeder it holds the stock tight to the fence .

hillbillyhogs

Quote from: t f flippo on May 26, 2013, 08:57:09 PM
hbh, What's an 'out board fence' ? I use feather boards a lot when feeding by hand. And when using the power feeder it holds the stock tight to the fence .

When you're making flooring , paneling etc  and need a consistent width you use a fence  OPPOSITE the factory fence and keep your material against it to have consistent width even if there is some variation in stock width (within reason) it will make it all uniform

t f flippo

hbh, Thanks. I've been running everything thru the table saw for constant width. I'll give the out board a try on my next batch of flooring.

Tc

Peter Drouin

Hi hbh, my shaper has 2 factory fences, independant of each outher ,I though when  the wood hits the tooling you lose a little wood , the 2# fence will make up the missing wood and hold the wood straight, and use the out board fence too?
and theres Larrys way where the tooling keeps the wood to the out board fence and the feed keeps it down.
so theres 2 or 3 ways to do the job?
I just use the 2 fences  and use a top and side feather boards.
Im allways looking for a better way :D maybe im taking to much wood off, just a 32th"to cleen it up on the sides
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

downsouth

Peter, that's a nice setup you got there. That is kinda what I'm trying to do in my shop. Nice shop also.

Peter Drouin

Quote from: downsouth on May 28, 2013, 09:31:20 AM
Peter, that's a nice setup you got there. That is kinda what I'm trying to do in my shop. Nice shop also.



thanks, but I do  take off some wood with the cutter, like tongue and groove, I do one side all the wood, then set it up to do the  other side and all the wood is the same width, all 8" or 6", is that right?
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

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