Manual mill Tweaks

Lud · May 31, 2006, 07:59:45 AM

A month ago I had a spell when I left an oak log on the Simplicity mill I have and I got that staining that adds so much to the appearance and value of the wood!! >:( >:( The paint on the crossmembers had worn away with all the log flipping that 60" Logrite lets me do. What to do?

Now I know you guys in the Orange Hoarde with all the hydraulics don't have these problems but is anybody covering the rails with something better than paint? It needs to be tough enough to take the impact of rolling heavy logs with edges and still let you slide the log so you can roll it.... and it won't stain.

I was thinking of the various plastics and cheapness is a quality I appreciate so I super glued some flat 1/8" vinyl window shutter slats to the rails. Seem to be holding up good and let me slide a big log easily to set up for the roll. The white strips are real visable and might save a barked shin.

How are others dealing with this issue? ??? ???

Larry · May 31, 2006, 08:23:41 AM

Never worried to much bout it. Had wood strips that I put on top of the bunks sometimes but that wasn't to satisfactory.

When I built a new toe board I went ahead and did it right with 1" stainless steel. I was going to use solid...but it was $17/foot. Retrospect this was one mod I should have done the day I got the mill.

IL Bull · May 31, 2006, 08:28:04 AM

Welcome to the forum. 8)
My brothers timber king has stainless steel covers on his bunks. Seems to work very well. My old manual mill is just like yours was, paint only. It does cause stain, white oak is the worst. :P
Joe

jpgreen · May 31, 2006, 09:33:04 AM

Maybe find a buddy with a metal brake and stomp shear then bend some stainless covers up. Used to be you could find a sheet metal fabracation shop that did restaurant hoods and such and get stuff like that done pretty cheap, but now nothings cheap labor wise.

I've got the brakes but no time right now, and shipping is rediculous.. :

RichlandSawyer · May 31, 2006, 10:45:49 AM

I was kicking around the idea when the mill is finished of taking it to the place that does spray on bedliners and have them coat the top of my bunks. The profesionaly applied stuff seams to be pretty tough.

ohsoloco · May 31, 2006, 11:52:54 AM

Isn't that spray on bedliner stuff "grippy" ??? The drop in type are really slick (yes, I've lost a load of lumber at a stop light before :D ), but I've noticed that the spray in type doesn't let anything slide around on them.

I have the same problem with the paint being rubbed off on my Lumbermate bunks. Even if I'm cutting cherry, it's so bad now that my cant gets stained in the time it takes me to slab a face and pull off a flitch or two :( I've been meaning to slap some wax on them to get by, but I don't think it'll last long at all.

Tom · May 31, 2006, 12:20:12 PM

I think that the only satisfactory resolution is a strip of stainless.

getoverit · May 31, 2006, 12:51:12 PM

How about splitting a piece of PVC pipe lengthwise and slipping it over the exposed edge?

Tom · May 31, 2006, 12:53:12 PM

I don't think it would stand the abuse, Ken.

LeeB · May 31, 2006, 04:13:18 PM

wood aluminum work? it wood be cheaper i think. LeeB

Tom · May 31, 2006, 04:34:03 PM

It may. the stain comes from a chemical reaction between the steel (iron) and the tannin in the wood creating Iron Tannate (the black stain) It usually doesn't go deep into the wood unless the wood is allowed to rest on iron for an extended period of time. Generally it can be planed off, but, it is hard to sell rough lumber that has the marks.

Just remember that anything placed on the bunks will change the blade/bunk measurement and a compensation will have to be made in the mill's scale.

jpgreen · May 31, 2006, 08:13:20 PM

Don't use aluminum. It will oxcidate and leave black marks, plus not hold up.

Flat stainless and flathead screws, or pop rivets, or epoxy it down but that would be tough to replace.

I would cut flat stainless, and pop rivet it appropriately spaced. Cheap and easily replaceable. Flathead sheet metal screws would work also..

Engineer · May 31, 2006, 08:35:53 PM

There are several plastics suppliers that sell both UHMW plastic sheets and teflon sheets that range from 1/32" thick to 1/8" thick. Only problem I see is, how do you get the teflon to stick to the bed rails?

getoverit · May 31, 2006, 09:48:13 PM

explosives??? ;D ;D ;D

Lud · June 01, 2006, 07:00:51 AM

I'll keep an eye out for a bit of stainless sheet stock, as that makes sense. Evenan old piece of restaraunt equipment that could be cut up. Did I say I was cheap? Those window blinds are in place and working fine at the moment. I'll try to get a pic this morning.

Y'know, Tom, my scale doesn't look any different at all using these strips! :D :D :D JUST THE LAST BOARD! ;D

Really, with trying to miss dogs, "see" the scale thru bifocles, etc., I've taken to putting a tape on the cant prior to the last cut and just splitting the difference. Works for me........

slowzuki · June 01, 2006, 08:06:48 AM

I have galvanized electrical mounting tracks for bunks. Not the strongest stuff but it doesn't rust quickly.

Michigan Mike · June 01, 2006, 09:24:10 AM

Hey I thought you guys all cut wood . I dont have a mill yet but my first thought was just to cut some hardwood strips and screw them down. Am I missing somthing? ??? ???

Engineer · June 01, 2006, 04:11:14 PM

Quote from: Michigan Mike on June 01, 2006, 09:24:10 AM
Hey I thought you guys all cut wood . I dont have a mill yet but my first thought was just to cut some hardwood strips and screw them down. Am I missing somthing? ??? ???

Yes. Putting anything other than a very thin strip or coating on the mill bunks changes the scale of the mill to some extent. Most mills are somewhat adjustable, but maybe not by more than a quarter inch or so. I know that I can't adjust my mill scale much more than 1/4" unless I drill new mounting holes for the scale. Besides, most hardwood strips will get rapidly chewed up by the abuse that a mill bed takes. It's much better to use the stainless strips, or some type of ultra-high molecular weight plastic.

Michigan Mike · June 01, 2006, 06:51:58 PM

OK I'm properly chastised. This dosen't mean I willl keep my foot out of my mouth. I have a ton of dumb questions and probably almost as many dumb sugestions. Just so long as I know some one will set me straight I will keep putting in my two cents.

jpgreen · June 01, 2006, 10:37:25 PM

Nobody gets chastised around here Mike.. cept for an occasional freeloading salesperson.. :D

Engineer · June 02, 2006, 11:49:31 AM

Not here to beat up on ya, Mike. I learn something new everyday, otherwise it's a wasted day.

Of course, a day spent wasted .... ;D

Michigan Mike · June 03, 2006, 05:06:07 AM

I in no way thought I was getting beat up. I asked a question perhaps with a bit of an atitude :

and got an answer. I know I have a lot to learn and I appreaciate the easy flow of questions and answers. I try not to take myself to seriously and my second post on the thread was ment to poke fun at myself.

KILROY · June 04, 2006, 10:58:17 AM

Lud,
The material that is used for the spray on bed liners is available at some paint stores. It comes clear or can be tinted any color. It will go on smooth if that is how you spray it. They intentionally spray it rough on truck beds.

It takes a special spray gun to spray it. The stores may lend them or rent them out.

I have never used this material. A farmer I sawed for gathered this information. He bought a new truck and wanted to protect it from rock dings from gravel and dirt roads. He was going to spray the bottom third of the truck, to keep the paint from chipping. The store would lend him the spray rig. Check with your local paint stores for some information. For the bed rails you could just paint it on.

If your bed rails are about the same size as Woodmizers. just order a set.