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To size or not to size???

Started by fstedy, August 28, 2007, 04:37:53 AM

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fstedy

I have an idea for a product that requires 6/4 X 2 3/4" red oak to be kiln dried  in lengths of 10' or 12' and later be cut into shorter lenghts of  16". My question is should I cut the 6/4 material into 2 3/4 or leave it in wider widths when kiln drying it.
Timberking B-20   Retired and enjoying every minute of it.
Former occupations Electrical Lineman, Airline Pilot, Owner operator of Machine Shop, Slot Machine Technician and Sawmill Operator.
I know its a long story!!!

flip

I would do MINIMUM 20% larger than what you want final size.  That is if it's going in the kiln wet (+25%).  Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Timberking B-20, Hydraulics make me board quick

Ga_Boy

Do you have the requirement for S4S material for your final product?

If yes; then I suspect you will need rough sawn dimensions of 8/4 X 3.5" X what ever lenghts you handle.

If you do not have the requirement for S4S, then allow for shrinkage depending on if the material is QS or rift sawn.  The shrinkage factors are in the FPL publication for KD Hardwoods.

As a rule of thumb I would allow at least a half inch more for shrinkage.
10 Acers in the Blue Ridge Mountains

fstedy

Finish size will be 1 3/8 X 2 3/4. Lumber will be log run as it comes off the mill mixed Rift and Quarter sawn. I would like to lose the least amount of material as possible. How about if it were cut into shorter pieces instead of  10 & 12 footers? Maybe that would eliminate much of the defect of drying ( twist and bowing).
Timberking B-20   Retired and enjoying every minute of it.
Former occupations Electrical Lineman, Airline Pilot, Owner operator of Machine Shop, Slot Machine Technician and Sawmill Operator.
I know its a long story!!!

David Freed

   Years ago I dried about 4000 bf of 4/4 red oak per month. I air dried 2 months in the open air (no roof), then about 1 month in the kiln. I had virtually no defects from drying. In the summer the top row would show some checking but I had 8' tall stacks and the rest of the lumber was fine. No twisting or warping, and very little bowing. Usually a little cupping, but nothing a planer couldnt fix.
   In answer to your question, if it was me, I would saw 6/4 boards to widths of multiples of 3 1/4" to 3 3/8" (6 1/2"-6 3/4",9 3/4"-10 1/8",etc),  dry them, and then cut to size. Wider boards are easier to keep under control while drying.  P.S. The market in my area changed over the years and I rarely dry red oak these days.   David

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