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Chainsaws / Re: Diesel saws n such

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 11:10:01 AM »
Diesels are in the 16 to 21:1 compression ratio for compression ignition to occur.  Youd break pull ropes and rotator cuffs left and right.  I dont think diesel will ever be the direction saws go.  Not to mention the lower lubricity that the ultra low sulphur mandated fuels have to offer. 
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Drying and Processing / Re: Help with my first load drying

« Last post by offrink on Today at 11:02:51 AM »
That is why this 3” basswood was chosen. Not high dollar price and it was ok to cut some off the ends if it doesn’t dry correctly. If the capacity of the kiln is about 75% more than the load will that cause a low dry bulb temp? We don’t have it filled to the max and was thinking that was one reason why the wet bulb is so low. 
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Fellows, I will have an amount of thinning to do in my larch plantation within next 5 years.  Actually, I need to do a non-commercial thinning before that, but that is another topic.

At any rate, given the size of stems I will be cutting, mostly in the 12" to 16" diameter at the base range, and all softwoods initially.....I think I can get away with moving the cut material with a good ATV/UTV and one of these forestry trailers w/winch.  I would not have thought this doable until I hit YouTube and watched roughly 100 videos of folks doing logging that is roughly on the same scale as what I might be doing....and these combos appeared to work well, maybe even better than tractor rigs.  Much narrower, more maneuverability. plenty of power for loads I saw toted....and even some ability in snow.  Very surprising.

For example, if you access the "Swedish Homestead" group of videos, the guys from Germany that moved to Sweden to log and saw with a Wood-Miser..They use just such a rig and are sawing some fairly large spruce.  Well-within any weight I'd need to haul from one end of my property to another.

What am I missing?  This equip. is, of course, much lighter than "real" forestry stuff, yet there are all those videos of guys succeeding.....or seeming to succeed, with these units.

Note...I'm not looking for a firewood hauler, although it may get used for that now and then, but a unit with log bunks.  DR makes one, Woodland Mills makes one...I'm sure there are more.  Are these things useful?  Sure look it.

Thanks
tom
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: sawmill shed exhaust fumes question

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 11:00:20 AM »
Barbender I think that would work.  I would use power vent and not depend on draft.  hot air will also go out.  just being out of the wind can sure help.
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Drying and Processing / Re: Help with my first load drying

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:54:05 AM »
offrink, If you learn a ton on your first load, then it is a success, no matter how the wood turns out.  If these are thick slabs, then your pins may be accurate.  that is why you do not want the outer surface drying to fast and creating surface degrade, due to large gradient between inner and outer wood.  This is done by keeping the relative humidity up in the kiln.  it takes time to move water across the grain.
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Chainsaws / Re: Stihl serial number mashup

« Last post by Canadiana on Today at 10:50:04 AM »
And what do you think of the 35 yo saw
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:48:02 AM »
I agree with mike and your final pass after all is flat, might be a thin pass to get better finish, less sanding.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Bandsaw Mill Build - How long did yours take?

« Last post by Wudman on Today at 10:47:09 AM »
I built mine in a handful of weekends.  It wasn't that long for construction.  It is a four post design with acme threaded rod (5 threads per inch) to raise and lower the head.  I used a 5 horsepower industrial electric motor that I pirated off a grain elevator.  It is a "man".  I had another newer model 5 HP on hand and it doesn't have near the power of that 50 year old unit.  The rails are 4" angle.  Cross bunks are 2x3 box tubing.  Blade guides are generic stacked bearings from Agri-Supply.  The acme rods are hanging in pancake bearings at the top.  Compact spare tires were pirated out of Lincoln Continentals from the pick a part yard.  Axles are Ford 9 inch, but I had to turn them to fit the pillow block bearings I used.  I have 24 feet of rail and can saw about 22 feet.  There is about 27 inches between blade guides when fully open.

I had a metal cutting bandsaw and an arc welder.  Take your time with your welds so you don't warp anything.  I had some movement on my four-post and had to do a little manipulation to get it squared.



  

The two acme rods are connected by #40 chain.  Notice the 3/4 bolt on top of the right hand rod.  I can sit a cordless drill on it and power the head up and down.  It will move quickly.  The steering wheel on the other side is for minor adjustments.  The acme rod will hold its position.  It does not move during operation.

 



It will saw. That's my log arch sitting beside the green house behind the mill.



  

It is a 3/4 ton extended cab Chevrolet pick-up frame.  That's a 12,000 pound mile marker winch on top.  I built it to handle tree length logs for a log cabin. 

Wudman
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 10:44:36 AM »
I dont know if metal work carries over at all here but if i was mowing a quarter inch off an aluminum billet and wanted it fairly clean in a single pass it would be a pretty stout two flute end mill and only climb milling.. In the case of wood id be trying to climb with the grain.  If its browning the wood the feed rate is too slow. If its tearing and peeling the wood grain then spindle speed is probably two slow gi en a sharp endmill.  Should be big crescent chips flying off with no heat coloring.

  Ive only milled woodblocks a few times in the bridgeport (which is what a router sled is sort of trying to mimic except in flying gantry format rather than fixed head cutter) but that feedrate and chip output is what youre looking for when doing it on a vertical mill.
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:43:25 AM »
maybe you could rig double screws or cables to pull your sled equally on each side.  this would decrease binding from torqueing the sled inside the rails and could operate with one hand and drink coffee with the other!!!   smiley_beertoast  .  sorry could not find a cup of coffee.  We will have you thinking like an old man soon enough. 8) Might even want a remote on/off switch to start and stop, esp. if the stuff hit the fan.
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IMHO you have an M 14 Bellsaw , I believe it was originally powered from the Rt. side. It would appear some one has changed it to the Lt. side, maybe to get the correct rotation of the drive motor. Again this just my opinion. No guess as to the value. Here is a link to the manual for the machine, that may be of interest.

Belsaw Machinery Co. - Publication Reprints - M-14 Sawmill ...
Sep 6, 2004 ... Publication Title: M-14 Sawmill Operator's Manual and Parts List. Manufacturer: Belsaw Machinery Co.
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:35:14 AM »
If you will be doing slabs with the grain and can surface the long way, I would make a router base that can lock in place, then you just can push the whole sled down the track.  keep the router base and sled base thin so the shank of the huge router bit does not get too much stress. i.e. the thicker all of the bases are, the further you have to extend the bit and or have less of the shank in the collet.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Milling my T&G flooring and Molding

« Last post by Coffee_Creek on Today at 10:33:50 AM »
What a great build along.

I always enjoy threads like these.
Thank you, we're looking forward to project being completed.
We do relax in the evening with a cold drink and watch the animals.


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Wood-Mizer / Re: LT30 Engine

« Last post by pineywoods on Today at 10:32:40 AM »
My manual lt40 came with that same 18 hp briggs. At 6000 hrs it still ran ok, but was just tired. I replaced it with a 25 hp liquid cooled kawasaki off a lawn tractor. John Deere and others use this engine in their small tractors. Easy swap, started early one morning and sawed with it the next day.
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:29:55 AM »
It looks like you could set it up on a lower bench or the ground.  That will be good for thicker, wider, longer stuff so you can reach all the way across and still control the router.  My project was end grain so direction made no difference
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:26:05 AM »


 


my set up made to fit my router, designed for this one project.  your sled looks great.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Milling my T&G flooring and Molding

« Last post by Coffee_Creek on Today at 10:25:40 AM »
You’ve been busy! It looks nice, I look forward to seeing the finished product
Thank you sir, 
I'll post updated pic's as soo as I have time.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: cutting slabs

« Last post by dmoore1983 on Today at 10:24:55 AM »
Not to butt into the conversation but this is coming soon.  

Forestry Forum Sneak Peak  :laugh:

LX250 Portable Sawmill | Wood-Mizer

Available for shipment in July(ish)
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Drying and Processing / Re: Router sled for surfacing slabs

« Last post by doc henderson on Today at 10:19:55 AM »
I use my big porter cable plunge router.  You could also make a base for the router that is a sled inside the sled, but if every thing gets thicker, you have to extend the bit further and it becomes less stable.  I still only cut in one direction so the cut is pulling router in.  If you wanted to could move to each end and cut in both directions, but easier in my opinion to just pull it back across not cutting. If you can lock the cross sled in position for a cut, there is less to hold.  If the sides of you cross sled were shorter it would make your handle work better.  but you may need the c-channel effect to support weight going across a wide slab.  the bottom of my cross sled is only 3/8th inch thick so I can extend down a ways.  My plunge router has steps to drop by about 1/4 inch at a time.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: cutting slabs

« Last post by offrink on Today at 10:19:28 AM »
I run an LT15 wide and a ms880 with a 59 or 72” chainsaw mill. The chainsaw mill is way slower but we don’t touch logs under 40”. We do live edge only with the chainsaw mill. Doing live edge on a 70” wide oak on a bandsaw mill is prohibitively expensive and nearly impossible to move. Each has its place. We actually got the bandsaw mill as an after thought because we were leaving to many good logs behind that were being cut up for firewood. 
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