Recent Posts

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1
Drying and Processing / Re: Drying shed

« Last post by YellowHammer on Today at 11:18:56 PM »
I have a metal prefab carport style drying shed, about 20 feet wide, 32 feet long, 12 feet tall.  Open all side, horizontal metal roofing, and I love it.  Zero maintannce, zero effort.  
I pointed to where I wanted it on the concrete, the guys came in the morning and were done and gone when I came home from work that afternoon.

WV, your place look great.

2
General Woodworking / Re: Some tips for using epoxy

« Last post by btulloh on Today at 11:18:53 PM »
Dewaxed for sure. If you don't keep flakes around just pick up some zinsler.  Handy.  Scuff up the surface and clean with acetone . Try an adhesion test with the shellac .
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General Board / Re: Best atv / utv

« Last post by ChadRL on Today at 11:14:14 PM »
Bought a 18 crew ranger 900. Love it. Lots of power, tons of attachment options for all types of work and large dump box. And...goes like a bat out of hell
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General Board / Point Of Sale (POS) Systems

« Last post by YellowHammer on Today at 11:09:52 PM »
Have any of you folks gone to a computerized point of sale system?  The ones where you tally up the wood on an IPhone, Desktop, or Cash Register like used in a true retail store or restaurant, then swipe cards?

Iíve used Square for cards but their retail POS system is very weak and doesnít do decimals, so I canít sell a board at 4.6 bdft, I have to round down or up to whole numbers.

Iíve used Vantiv, one of the big commercial credit card merchant services, but they were too heavy in the fees.

Iíve also used Heartland, another major merchant service, but their true fees were higher and they wanted between $2,000 and $4,000 for a true counter top retail POS system.

So we still do everything with paper tally sheets, add everything up with a calculator, then swipe customers cards.  Dealing with so many customers, and selling by the board, that is a total pain.  We donít really want to go to barcodes on each board, either.  

Iím looking for a good alternative, does anybody have any ideas?
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Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Chainsaw tearout

« Last post by ChadRL on Today at 11:08:31 PM »
As stated, utility knife works well I used to build log homes and thatís the method we used
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Timber Framing/Log construction / Re: Chainsaw tearout

« Last post by jander3 on Today at 11:00:38 PM »
You may find a safety chain with high rakers will cause less tearout when brushing notches as compared to square ground.  However a saw that is at least 50cc with a sharp chain, chisel or square ground should give you a nice clean cut if the chain is sharp.
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General Woodworking / Re: Epoxy resin

« Last post by low_48 on Today at 11:00:31 PM »
No, they don't use epoxy to stabilize. Everyone I know uses Cactus Juice in a vacuum chamber. Epoxy is too thick.  https://www.turntex.com
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LogRite Tools and Rite Leg Co / Re: four new legs

« Last post by samandothers on Today at 10:58:53 PM »
I like the Heritage.  Seems to give a nice oil finish but not add color.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Whatcha Sawin' ???

« Last post by YellowHammer on Today at 10:53:05 PM »
Lawg Dawg,
Thatís a beautiful example of RRRQS wood.  Excellent job.  
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Chainsaws / Re: brush saw

« Last post by Brazos on Today at 10:44:26 PM »
I decided to invest in a clearing saw earlier this year.  I went all in and bought the Husqvarna 555.  It is an awesome machine and do not regret the money I spent.  I just needed something to fill the gap between weed eater and chainsaw.  It is very efficient taking out smaller 2" or less trees.  It will also take out much bigger trees without too much fuss.  I just walk into the brush and briars and start swinging and everything starts falling to the ground.  It's a niche machine but it has a pretty wide niche.
11
Sawmills and Milling / Re: Dogging Problem

« Last post by Bindian on Today at 10:39:37 PM »
Thanks MM.  I will use them until I can find 2 inch in a reasonable length.
hugs,  Brandi
12
I've read to install my fence boards with the #10 stainless screws. Shouldn't there be concern for movement, like the siding?  
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Timber harvester switches

« Last post by Brad_S. on Today at 10:28:48 PM »
 When they had the liquidation auction at timber harvester, I bought everything on the ďdebarker shelfĒ and included in that lot was a limit switch. This is the exact brand and model limit switch that was used on all timber harvesters.


I
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Forestry and Logging / Re: Cheap implement/equipment paint?

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 10:22:17 PM »
Its tractor supply's "majic" brand cat yellow with hardener, came out same price as genuine cat with no hardener.  Also thinned it a bit with naptha to flow easier.  I gave a quick scuff and fluff with 100 grit then air and finally acetone wipe, then brushed or rolled it on.  Took 2 coats to block out the prior layer.  

Dried quick, like 2 hours.  Unfortunately every gnat in town flew into it before then
15
Chainsaws / Re: stihl 661 price

« Last post by caveman on Today at 10:20:09 PM »
Thanks Al.  We will pass on it.  
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General Woodworking / Re: Some tips for using epoxy

« Last post by Larry on Today at 10:17:03 PM »
Shellac was my first thought but I have never tried it with epoxy, and epoxy is different.  I definitely would want de-waxed shellac.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Engine Failure - Two

« Last post by caveman on Today at 10:13:14 PM »
Good for you Magicman.  When I saw this topic pop back up I was afraid that the new old one bought the farm too.
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Firewood and Wood Heating / Re: Wood conveyors

« Last post by mike_belben on Today at 10:12:10 PM »
Sounds like id be ahead of the game to skip the corn thrower and build one.
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Sawmills and Milling / Re: Need to move some sawdust?

« Last post by Brad_bb on Today at 10:09:00 PM »
Be careful what you let go for animal bedding.  Many woods not safe for animals.  
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Firewood and Wood Heating / Re: Standing dead trees

« Last post by trapper on Today at 10:08:07 PM »
Dead elm by me when the bark is gone the top is dry but the closer to the base of the tree the wetter it gets.  I normally split the bottom pieces  and save them for another year. 
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