tying joist joint ?

[Hackermatack]

I am going to mate some 8 x 8 joists to a 10 x 10 carrying beam. I would prefer to mortise into the side of the beam rather than notch into the top of it for greater strength and to be able to cut the tendon lower in the joist to prevent splitting. Somewhere here I saw some general rules for sizing this joint and I have not been able to find them. Help would be appreciated Thanks

[Don P]

Do a search for "soffit tenon" or "tusk tenon" and I bet you'll get something.

[Jim_Rogers]

this?


 

Jim Rogers

[Hackermatack]

Do a search for "soffit tenon" or "tusk tenon" and I bet you'll get something.

Well that didn't work 

[Hackermatack]

this?


 

Jim Rogers

I was thinking if I cut a mortise rather than a pocket it would leave the carrying beam stronger. Sort of like always drilling a joist as close to center as possible when installing wiring and plumbing. Probably not a big deal as the pine 10 x 10 will only be spanning about 11' and will only be carrying a small sleeping loft above. 

[Remle]

Are you referring to " Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket"  search here for picture " Tying Joist Tenon and Pocket - Timber Frame HQ ". This is used to hold the beams together scattered through out the floor system, but not on every joist.

[Don P]

Found some guidance on soffit and tusk tenons. Do you have the TFG red book, Timber Frame Joinery and Design Workbook? If so start on pg 42. If not shoot me a pm with your email and I'll scan it.

[Hackermatack]

I think that after more research that my 10 x 10 carrying beam will be marginal if I do much pocket or mortise cutting. I was hoping to get 12 or 14 inch beams when I milled them but one of my logs did not make the cut so the are 10 x 10 Since I have plenty of ceiling height I am going to just make a shallow rabbit cut across the top of the beam and over lay the joists with solid blocking between them to fill the space. Not quite as nice as a pegged mortise and tendon but simple and strong. Thanks