Does Anyone Use this?

[Lawg Dawg]

Does anyone use this on there planer beds and other woodworking equipment? I found it leaves a nice slick surface, with no residue



 

[WDH]

Silicon disrupts most finishes, so it is a no-no if you are selling planed wood to wood workers and furniture makers.  Ever heard of "fish eyes"? 

[muggs]

Johnsons past wax works also.   Muggs

[Lawg Dawg]

Silicon disrupts most finishes, so it is a no-no if you are selling planed wood to wood workers and furniture makers.  Ever heard of "fish eyes"?

Yeah I have heard of Fish Eyes :D  But I only spray a lite coat maybe once every three or four days...all it needs. Most people making fine furniture would probably plane it some more...so I guess it would come off then and not leave any residue...makes it slick though

[Tom the Sawyer]

There are several products that work very well and are silicone-free, Slipit and Fluid Film for example.

[Southside]

PB blast makes a non silicone dry lube that I find works well. 

[ellmoe]

I use it pre-blades so any residue is planned off. I have found that it works better than the other products mentioned. I also use it on metal feed rollers, keeps pine pitch from sticking. Like Brillcream (sp. ?  ) " A little dab will do ya! ".

[Brad_bb]

No silicon based products allowed in my shop or on my property.  They wreak havoc with any type of finishing.  For me it started with my car restoration finishing.  Silicon products like silicon tire shine or spray lube will get on finishes and it acts like micro ball bearings, and it is extremely difficult to get off completely.  Just when you think you have it clean and all off, and you go to paint or finish, the finish will move away/bead away like pouring water on oil.  Silicones are a no no.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Johnsons paste wax here

[scsmith42]

No silicone allowed in the wood shop for reasons mentioned by Danny, Brad and others.

I use either beeswax, paste wax, or Bostic BladeCote on the woodshop planer beds and cutting edges.

[Don P]

I use Johnson's paste wax. Little known observation, the can fits nicely inside a 6" dust hose. It works better than that little money tube down at the bank drive thru.

[Southside]

Don - are you saying you waxed the inside of your dust collection system too? :D

[Don P]

The can was empty when I found it and a fan blade in the truck, I think I waxed the cyclone :D

[Southside]

Well - at least the dust didn't stick to it.... :D

[GeneWengert-WoodDoc]

I am curious...are we saying that wax does not cause fish eyes?  Only silicone does?  Does the wax in AnchorSeal cause problems?

[WDH]

The wax in anchorseal does not cause problems when it is used to seal the end grain on a log because the ends of the boards that are sawn get trimmed anyway.  Still, it would probably get planed off in the finishing process. 

However, a board that is being prepared for a project like furniture, where you are jointing, ripping etc, creates the opportunity for silicone, if you put it on the cast iron surfaces, to get on the board and that is where the problem lies.

[Bruno of NH]

As Mr Smith does
I have always use Bostic products,wax and Slipit

[Brad_bb]

Wax directly on a surface can cause finish problems, but there's rarely enough to cause any problems from maintaining our woodworking equipment.  Apply the johnson's paste wax to your metal surfaces to reduce friction, let it dry and buff with a clean paper or cloth towel.  Never caused a finish problem for me that way.  Sure if you wipe wax right on your wood surface and try to finish it, that won't work.  

Conversely, Silicone spreads very easily and is extremely difficult to get off completely.  Just a little silicone will cause finish problems.  For example, if you have wax on one car fender, and silicone on another, when you try to clean the panel with Wax, grease, and silicone remover solvent, you'll get the wax all off, but you won't get all the silicone and you'll end up spreading it around.  You grab a clean towel and solvent to clean again and you'll get some of the remaining, but not all.  You can do this alot and you'll find it quite difficult to get ALL the silicone off.  And the down side is you won't know it until you go to spray the panel.

[WDH]

I use slipit.  This child does a lot of planing.  A lot .  As much as a whack many times over. 

[low_48]

Silicone is an absolute disaster in the shop. Even if they do plane it, then the dust collector will be blowing around dust with silicone on it. It will ruin finishes for months and months! Even after they start using different wood. Machinery will stay contaminated for a long time as well! I once visited with some factory furniture finishers at a conference. They are not allowed to ever come to work with any sort of hand lotion or perfume. They also had to use approved stick deodorant. There is fish eye eliminator, but that contaminates the gun for future use. If wood planed with that silicone on the bed was sold, you should be calling the customer and tell them what they have.

[Southside]

Bad Dawg, Bad. No biscuit.  :D

[Lawg Dawg]

Bad Dawg, Bad. No biscuit.  :D

:D :D :D :D

[Lawg Dawg]

I guess when I finish this can ... I want be using it anymore! :D :D

[IMERC]

I guess when I finish this can ... I want be using it anymore! :D :D

as a consumer, and I found out you were siliconing your equipment, I'd steer clear of you as would anyone I knew...
toss the can now.. please..

I've been dragging this around for some time.. maybe it'll help...

Johnson's paste wax for your tables and tools...
You can add Briwax, Black Bison, Behlen, Trewax and Mohawk to the list of acceptable waxes...
If they contain Carnauba wax they will finish harder and be longer wearing/lasting...
You can even add more Carnauba if you want...

http://www.parkbeekeeping.com/products/detail/carnauba-wax

Wax applied to a warm surface is a big plus...
Mechanical polishing over hand buffing is way better.. (elcheapo car buffer or a wool bonnet on your ROS)...
Polishing is what makes the wax work to it's fullest...
More polishing.. Better results...
above all.. make sure it DOES NOT contain silicone...

Wax clean up/removal/thinning is done w/ mineral spirits or the ilk...
A pound of wax should last way more than a decade maybe even well into the second...
Put it on any tool table surface you have...
Great for plane soles too...
To melt/soften the wax put the container of wax in hot water but not submerged...

Carnauba wax, sometimes also referred to as palm wax or Brazil wax, is a kind of wax that is made from the extracts of palm leaves. These leaves are found on the plant 'Copernicia prunifera', a short plant that is usually found in Brazil, especially in the states of Ceara, Rio Grande do Norte and Piaui. Also known as the 'Queen of waxes', it is found in yellowish or brownish flakes.

Stick w/ your silicone-less furniture paste wax and avoid possible contamination of your project... or anyone else's...

If you are considering candle wax... not all candles are created equal...
You also have to contend w/ dyes in the wax...
Best to steer clear of using candle wax...
Candle making colorants come in a vegetable based block so there is no paraffin in these color blocks.
Candle Wax | Candlewic
Candle Dye, Colors & Pigments | Candlewic

PARAFFIN CANDLES
Paraffin development began in 1830, but manufactured paraffin was not introduced until 1850. It provided an alternative to tallow which gave off an unpleasant odor when burned. In 1854 paraffin and stearin (the solid form of fat) were combined to create stronger candles, very similar to those we use today.

BEESWAX CANDLES
Candles have a wide variety of ingredients, but there are only a few main ingredients that are used throughout most of the world. We will talk about the main types, and the advantages and differences of each.
Most honey and bees wax is collected from July to September. It can come from the pollination of canola, sweet clover or sunflowers. Generally these plants result in a lighter scent and lighter colored beeswax.
There are two types, solid beeswax and honeycomb wax. The solid bees wax candle is created by pouring liquid wax into a candle mold. The result is a smooth, dense candle which burns for an extremely long time. Honeycomb beeswax candles are created by rolling honeycomb textured sheets. The honeycomb candle is less dense and burns faster.
Beeswax candles produce a bright flame, do not drip, do not smoke or sputter, and produce a fragrant honey odor while being burned.

CRYSTAL WAX CANDLES
These are also called wax tarts or wax potpourri. They are made with an all-natural candle wax that holds twice as much fragrance as paraffin wax candles, making them suitable for highly scented candles. They are used with a potpourri warmer (without any water). The fragrance emerges when the candle starts to melt.

GEL CANDLES
Gel candles have a new and unique look. They give off a beautiful illumination and a wonderful aroma. And they burn three times as long as wax candles.
But be careful. Gel candles produce a higher burning flame and they burn much hotter. Too much heat can shatter a glass candle-holder or container which can ignite nearby combustibles, resulting in a room fire. To be safe, never burn a gel candle more than four hours.

SOY CANDLES
Soy wax candles are made from soy beans. They are non-toxic, non-carcinogenic and bio-degradable. They burn up to 40% longer than paraffin candles and burn evenly which means there is no tunneling effect. However, it is not recommended to burn more than four hours at a time. Soy candles are very sensitive to temperature and light. They should be stored away from sunlight, fluorescent lighting and other sources of heat.

Note:
Wax clean up/removal/thinning is done w/ mineral spirits or the ilk...

[IMERC]

How to Clean Silicone Spray | eHow