So I gotta buy a new saw ...

[whiporee]

I spent six years using a Stihl Farmboss, but I blew it up earlier this summer with a bad fuel mix. So I bought a Jonsered 2166, which had great power on a 20-inch Oregon bar and .50 chains, but the thing has been so fragile -- the tension adjust screw has broken six times, one of the bolts that holds the bar in place has fallen into the oil tank a few times, and now the vibration assembly on the bottom broke off (totally my fault -- thought it could handle some bumps strapped to my skidsteer, but I was wrong) and to fix it I've got to replace the whole fuel tank assembly, which I doubt my ability to do right. 

My wife bought a Stihl 261, but the thing won't stay going and feels really underpowered. I live and work at about 9000 feet, and I know that Stihls can have trouble at altitude. 

I thin about 5 acres a year of dense lodgepole pines, but not a lot over 14-inch diameters. But a lot of it is cleaning up dead stuff -- stuff that's been laying and getting hard for 30 years, so I do need power. 

So before I went out and just took another gamble on a saw, I thought I'd ask if anyone had any suggestions for a durable, dependable one. I'd like to keep my 20 Oregon bar because I've got 10 chains I'd still like to use. I only know the basic brands, but I've got some time before I'm cutting again and I'd like to get this right. Thanks for any suggestions. 

[lxskllr]

I don't have much experience,  but I'm enjoying my 362cm. I don't use it at elevation, but the ~10 tanks of fuel I've put through it has given me flawless performance. I also like what I've read around about echo. They sound like good bang/buck saws, and I've been contemplating one of their smaller saws if my poulan pro doesn't straighten out.

[alan gage]

The 261 with a 14" or 16" bar sounds about perfect. Seems like the Stihl dealer should be able to do something to get it to run properly at altitude. I know you said you wanted to stick with 20" because of the chains but I really like running my 250 and 16" bar whenever possible just because of the lighter weight. You could have all your 20" chains shortened to 16".

Alan

[dougand3]

If you want to use Oregon D009 bar off Jred...In current saws, you are mostly limited to Husky, Jred and Makita/Dolmar.
I think I'd get the 261 tuned properly.

[barbender]

That 261 should be perfect for the work you're doing, if it's tuned right. I've got the M-tronic version and I really like it thus far. Only probably 3 gallons of fuel through it, but from -15°F to 85°F, it has ran great. It will hiccup a bit when readjusting to a different temp after sitting for a while, butit clears up quickly and is ready to go. I'm really happy with it, and it's my first Stihl👍 I still like my Jonsereds and Husqvarnas too😊

[barbender]

I should also mention, I directed a friend to purchase a Jonsered 2166 a few years back. He cuts a fair piece of firewood and wanted a "real saw" instead of the little homeowner one he had. He's had some of the same issues whiporee has, I was kind of embarrased I recommended the saw.  Are you busting the adjustment screw, or the nylon retainer that the gear shaft rides in? I break those often enough (especially when tensioning on longer bars) that if I used my saws daily I'd keep a couple of spares on hand. On a 20", and with the amount you've had break, I'd guess you're overtensioning your chain.

[ehp]

go with a bigger engine, every 1000 ft you loose around 3% of your horsepower so at 9000 ft your down 27% on power . If it was me and I know Im running a 20 inch bar I am going to use the stihl 461 with carb,

[Southside]

Welcome to the Forum -

Just know we welcome you as a family friend here. Perhaps you should consider this unit - it was featured in another thread, don't know if it's too much saw or not.  If you do go with it we would want a report back for sure.  

Chainsaw

[whiporee]

I should also mention, I directed a friend to purchase a Jonsered 2166 a few years back. He cuts a fair piece of firewood and wanted a "real saw" instead of the little homeowner one he had. He's had some of the same issues whiporee has, I was kind of embarrased I recommended the saw.  Are you busting the adjustment screw, or the nylon retainer that the gear shaft rides in? I break those often enough (especially when tensioning on longer bars) that if I used my saws daily I'd keep a couple of spares on hand. On a 20", and with the amount you've had break, I'd guess you're overtensioning your chain.

I probably am. I've broken both -- I actually ended up replacing that whole face plate. It was only 50 bucks, but it saved me a lot of hassle with that nylon retainer. I ordered six screws, but they were out of stock for a month, so I had to try to jury rig things, which then screwed up the rest of the faceplate and all that. I think the secret of it -- I just learned it too late -- is that the bar has to be kind of loose when you're adjusting the pin. I never had to worry about that with my Stihl, so I was just ignorant of the differences.
The bolt sliding into the oil was weird, though. That was a pain the butt, because every time you took the bar off you had to worry about it -- I got to the point of always taking the bar off with the saw on its bottom instead of it's side, but that made the whole thing take a lot more effort.
It was a tough saw, but it turned me off of the brand with all the different hassles. But it got me through my forestry plan this summer -- about 22 cords of firewood, not to mention the thousands of cubic feet of chipped slash and little ones -- so I shouldn't complain.

[whiporee]

Welcome to the Forum -

Just know we welcome you as a family friend here. Perhaps you should consider this unit - it was featured in another thread, don't know if it's too much saw or not.  If you do go with it we would want a report back for sure.  

Chainsaw

. If I thought the battery would last me more than two trees, I'd probably give it a shot. Might be nice for those times the wife wants to "help." Would give her something to do rather than pick up twigs so the forest looks prettier. 

[Southside]

On a more serious note I am partial to the Husky 372's, they may be "old school", but they are tough as nails and some hard to beat.  Really any true pro line saw would serve you well.  

[thecfarm]

whiporee,welcome to the forum.
Just to throw a wrench into the works. I have 2 saws,a 372 husky and a 152 efco,52cc. I won that efco on here back in 2011. And it is still running fine. I did have to wire the bottom together and the trigger broke on it. But it is still running fine. And it gets used alot. I use the big stuff for the 372,than limbing of the the tops and the small stuff,the efco gets used. The small saw is easier on my shoulder. Which I did not realize until I got it.

[nativewolf]

Buyer beware on the efco saws re warranty services; the mid sized efco 152-156-165s had a positive mention but just eyes wide open.


The Chainsawr is No Longer an Efco Dealer. Read why. | Chainsawr

[thecfarm]

I remember that thread. That was a bum deal. If they did that,what else would they do?
Are they still making efco anymore?
My issuses came way after any warranty,but I've had good luck with mine. But I guess that series was the good ones.
Not saying buy an efco,but get a big saw and a small saw. No matter what brand you buy.
I'm like barbender,don't want to stick my neck out too far.  

[teakwood]

The 361/362 with a 18" (or buy a 20"light) bar would be perfect for the job, still light but more powerful than the 261