More benches

[WV Sawmiller]

   Well, I got a new half inch slow speed (supposed to provide more torque) drill and cut some more legs for a couple of ash and walnut benches. For the ash I am finding I can rip one of my 6' 2X6's on my mill, cut to about 18-19 inches each and get 8 legs. The green ash works easier than the previous walnut, locust or ash. Some of that is because of the new drill and some is because I am now using smaller blanks than before. I have also learned to just feather the tenon cutter on to the end of the blank. When properly used I get small chips instead of big wrist breaking curls.

   It warmed up nicely today so Elmer said he felt like working. I glued the male ends, drove them in with a mallet and put in a deck screw for insurance then took my benches to the mill, put a 2" spacer on the left side, moved the blade to near maximum width, set the height to 17" and trimmed the legs.


 
This is the pair of walnut benches with the imbedded, split in half walnut on each bench.


 
These two ash 4' benches came off the first, butt cut of a small ash tree. All the bark is off and the borer grub tracks are very visible. The curve meant this would not have made decent lumber but it makes pretty benches. Not sure if I will keep there here at the house or take them over to the consignment shop.

[Downstream]

just a thought on the curved log benches.  I have had pretty good luck cutting curved logs in half and then making a set of matched benches from each half that I sell to people to put around their backyard fire pits.  since they came from the two halves of the same log they have a bit of a book matched look.  Also the curve works well with most fire pits.  here is an example of matching red oak benches with walnut bow ties to stabilize the pith crack. 

 

[WV Sawmiller]

Downstream,

   I like the walnut bow ties. Did you make them or do you buy them precut? How deep do they go? I don't have the experience or tools yet to do finishing but the walnut benches would really improve with proper planing/sanding and a thick epoxy finish.

[kettlekorn]

Good to see some more examples of benches produced by craftsman.  I check everyday for new samples of woodworking projects by the many real craftsman on the FF.  Good ideas often originate here.  Great jobs and thanks to both of you.

[WV Sawmiller]

Kettlekorn,

   Mine are just logs split to about 4" thick. Just open about a 6-8 inch face on the bottom (I used to leave the bottom round but squaring it makes more consistent leg installation). I made a jig out of a scrap 1X6 to help get the leg angle right. Too much and you trip over them, too little and they fall over. Legs are made from approximately 2.5" square stock (or rip a 2X6). First ones I made I split a log with a chainsaw, whittled out the legs with an ax and drove them in a hole made with a spade bit. Now I bought a tenon cutter that works on a half inch drill, leaves a 3" long 1-1/2" tenon. I cut the mortise with a 1-1/2" spade bit. Kit came with a Forstner bit but I can't get the angle started right with it. Glue and pound the legs in, I add a 4" deck screw through the tenon for good measure, then turn the bench upside down on the mill and one pass at 17" height cuts all 4 legs perfectly. I can't tell if Downstream has a stringer under there to brace the legs on his but that is common.

   The uglier the log the prettier the bench it seems.

[Downstream]

I have made all of the bow ties used so far.  I was going to buy a template and then i watched a you tube video were the woodworker commented that perfect symmetrical bow ties don't look right on live edge stuff so I just draw them up and cut as needed so no two are ever the same.  Just like the benches.  On these benches I used 3/4" thick.  Cut them about and inch thick and then sand down flush to surface after gluing.  Tools needed are band saw to make bow ties, plunge router to rough cut opening, and then wood chisel to fine tune edges after routing.  I'm still learning so consider myself at a 3 level out of 10.

working with half logs does create extra work for the log legs since I use chainsaw and chisels to cut in the D opening.  I have used straight 2-4" thick slab legs also which are much easier.  Currently no tenons on these.  I secure the legs with two 6" or 8" outdoor rated lag screws down through the top and then plug the holes to cover screw heads.  On heavier benches like these I will also add angled support braces(made from live edge scraps) between the bottom of the log and inside surface of legs.

When I do four leg benches like wv sawmiller I currently use a lathe to make the end tenons.  I had made a jig to do them on my router table but that did not work very well for me.  I have learned to assemble the legs to the bench in a day or two or else the wood shrinks and the diameter is too small.  I am using either forstner or spade bits to drill the holes.  I will post some additional photos of benches later.

I have tried spar urethane, teak oil, and timber oil as finishes so far.

[kettlekorn]

Downstream,

I noticed you mentioned using timber oil as a finish.  Have any of your benches, or etc. that you used timber oil on been exposed to the elements for any length of time (say a year or two) And if so, how are they faring?

[Downstream]

I have only used timber oil on maybe 3 or 4 benches starting last fall.  Another local person that has a sawmill suggested I try it as an easier/cheaper option vs teak/spar urethane.  Two of the benches are around my firepit out back and they sat out all winter.  I was out there tonight and they have weathered grey/brownish losing the initial slight color pop when first applied.  I will pour some water on them tomorrow and see if it still beading or not.  In general I like it's ease of application and re-apply.  I hit with quick hand sand to smooth and then re-apply only takes a few minutes.  My plan is to sand and re-apply once a year in the spring.  The stuff does have a strong odor when first applied but it does go away.   I would not use it on indoor or enclosed porch items.

The oak benches I posted in this thread were finished with Briwax teak oil I buy off amazon.  a little pricey but good middle ground between spar urethane and the timber oil.  I tried some name brand hardware store teak oil and it was a disaster.  Never fully dried and then ran with the first rain.