Oregon Powermatch bar oil hole

MN Ripper · January 14, 2010, 10:50:26 PM

Question for those that use or have used these bars...is there a reason the 24" bar would have a smaller oil hole compared to the 20" bar? Both are .375" x .050". I haven't done an exact measurement but the 20" bars is probably close to 3/16" and the 24" is close to 1/8" or less.

The 24" requires frequent attention to unclog it while the 20" flows free. I was thinking of opening the 24" up to match but wanted to see if this hole was smaller for a reason? Seems strange to me, in fact if anything you would think the reverse-longer bar more oil bigger hole?

timberjack240 · January 14, 2010, 11:27:10 PM

ive never noticed any difference ive run both never had any trouble. u mite have just got into a batch of bars taht got drilled wrong . our dealer ran into that before he jsut drills em out but im not 100% sure why that hole would be smaller.. if i think of it tommro ill look at mine and see

Cut4fun · January 15, 2010, 06:50:22 AM

I drill all of my oregon bars out that have that newer slotted hole. I noticed them clogging up quicker also, so I opened them up with a drill bit like they used to be. problem solved.

MN Ripper · January 15, 2010, 10:03:04 PM

Sounds like a little drill work is an order for mine tomorrow.

It must of been one of those almost quitting time Friday afternoon bars I have. :D

SawTroll · January 16, 2010, 12:18:59 PM

The ones with the smaller hole is a newer version - the smaller holes are also angeled, not just smaller.

This "feature" is called "lubri-jet", and is supposed to improve oiling. I like it so far, but have just one bar with it.......

Cut4fun · January 16, 2010, 01:35:51 PM

Quote from: SawTroll on January 16, 2010, 12:18:59 PM
The ones with the smaller hole is a newer version - the smaller holes are also angeled, not just smaller.

This "feature" is called "lubri-jet", and is supposed to improve oiling. I like it so far, but have just one bar with it.......

If you do any amount of cutting in the future you will find out the new lubri-jet sucks. JMO I drill them out like old style and bigger to boot. No problems afterwords.

beenthere · January 16, 2010, 04:00:23 PM

"sucks" doesn't 'splain much. :

Could/would you be a bit more specific, and is it not allowing enough oil through, or what?
What problem is solved from drilling them out? And how could you tell the problem went away?

Cut4fun · January 16, 2010, 05:15:05 PM

If you would read the whole thread instead of one post maybe you would catch on.

Quote from: Cut4fun on January 15, 2010, 06:50:22 AM
I drill all of my oregon bars out that have that newer slotted hole. I noticed them clogging up quicker also, so I opened them up with a drill bit like they used to be. problem solved.

If you dont know how a oil hole works on a bar to get oil to the chain from the oiler area on the chainsaw case. I'm not fixing to set here and explain it all. :D

beenthere · January 16, 2010, 06:18:02 PM

Now I understand "sucks". :

:

Al_Smith · January 17, 2010, 07:44:36 AM

:D Ha ,if you don't know what the term "sucks " means you'll never get sucks with a half life . :D

Literal translation of sucks : Doesn't preform the task as it was intended to .

Perhaps in this case because of over zealus concern for dribbling just a tiny bit of bar oil on the ground and having a revolt from 10,000 "greenies " who act like it's the wreck of the Exon Valdez or something . More so perhaps because they could sell more bars do doubt because they got burned up from lack of lubrication .

Other usages of the phrase will not be delved into at this time in the interest of wholesome intertainment on a web forum with a mixed crowd ,thank you very much . 8)

stonebroke · January 17, 2010, 08:07:21 AM

What is really funny is that oil is biodegradable. It is a organic compound and will go away all on its own.

Stonebroke

Rocky_J · January 17, 2010, 08:16:58 AM

Yup, some of us know that. But say that out loud in some circles and you will be crucified. Buying brand new electric cars with hundreds of pounds of toxic heavy metals is much better for the environment than using oil to lubricate the bar and chain on your saw. :

Al_Smith · January 17, 2010, 11:44:47 AM

Quote from: Rocky_J on January 17, 2010, 08:16:58 AM
Yup, some of us know that. But say that out loud in some circles and you will be crucified.

I have admit it's rather amusing how some carry on about that .If they feel that way they should use a bow saw or better yet no saw .Live in a concrete house with solar heat,ride a bike and wipe their behind with an oak leaf I suppose .Best to learn leaves though prior to because poison oak would not suffice .Then they would have something to jump up and down about . :D

MN Ripper · January 17, 2010, 01:21:13 PM

Drilled it out yesterday and cut a cut for the afternoon...so far so good! 8)

What probably didn't help mine was that most of the wood I'm getting comes from dead or diseased trees(mainly red oak & maple) that tree services have removed. It all looks great on the outside but inside is usually a nice center core of soft punky wood that gives fine sawdust instead of the nice flaky chips. Those fine chips loved to clog that small hole. You knew when it was jammed up cause the bar oil would find alternate routes like all around the clutch cover and powerhead. And a well used chain would start getting a bad sag from all the heat. The bar wore a nice track in it too near each end, which I have since dressed up on the vertical belt sander.

quietrangr · January 17, 2010, 04:36:46 PM

Haven't seen a new Oregon bar in a while, but if this is like the angled oil hole that Oregon put into bars made for Husqvarna, I always had less plugging trouble with them.

bushmechanic · January 17, 2010, 09:46:02 PM

I have a powermatch bar on my 262xp and it was constantly plugging up with sawdust and wood chips so I drilled it out bigger. I still have some trouble with it but it seems that I'm not alone.

HolmenTree · July 11, 2018, 10:50:45 AM

Thought I'd bump this 8 year old thread to relate to the recent "bar hole drilling" thread. Good read this thread is.

Funny thing about the conversation here, the members are talking about this "new Oregon bar oil hole". Actually that "new hole" bar has been around for 25 years prior to 2010.
33 years later it's still going strong on the PowerMatch bars.

I field tested that bar with the Lubri Jet oil hole for Oregon before it was introduced and got all the benifits explained to me by Oregon field engineer Gary Walrath.
Gary told me the design works particularly well with the lower oil pressure Stihl oil pumps, it's like squeezing the end of a garden hose the water comes out with more force.

The angled hole sloping towards the bar nose greatly reduces saw dust and chips from catching on the hole's edge inside the rail edge common with a larger straight drilled blind holes. Worst holes I found for plugging were the old Windsor bars with the holes drilled right through both rails. Probably the reason why Windsor lost the contract for outfitting rebaged 20" and under bars for Stihl Canada around 1986.
That was part of the trade deal that Stihl must have a Canadian made product on their German made saws in order to allowed for sale in Canada.
Only exception was the 25" and longer German made Stihl bars were allowed for sale.