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questions on my sawmill build

Started by larrydown60, September 10, 2015, 09:03:21 PM

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larrydown60

Here is a few more pics and info on what I am building.The saw mill bed is 24 feet long and 50 inches wide and the side rails are 8 inch C channel x 1/4 and every 4 foot across the frame they are 1/4 x 6 inch I beams. The head unit is going to be all redone, everything is all messed up. The band wheels are only 13 inches, I am changing to 19inch wheels. I am starting out with a 16 hp Briggs and Stratton Vanguard. I am going to put the wheel chair motors to run the head unit up and down acme on 1 1/4x5 rod and the head unit will travel back and fourth on the track. I will add the hydraulics after get the mill up and running. I have 2 trailer axles and springs from camper 3500 lbs. my question is how far back on the frame should I mount the axles? The frame is painted now before winter gets here might have to do some grinding and repainting to finish the frame work but I feel better knowing the steel is not bare. I am open to all suggestions or improvements you can think of thanks.

  

 

Chuck White

I would mount the axles so that there was around 150 pounds of weight at the hitch.

Mill is coming right along!
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

Jemclimber

I would mount the axle about 2/3rds of the way back.  You can change the tongue weight by where you lock the head position for travel. Once you figure where that head position is to give you about 150lbs of tongue weight, make a through bolt hole to pin the head for travel.   A longer tongue is easier to back up.   Keep the pictures coming!!
lt15

sawmilljoe

150 lbs on ball and 2/3 rds is great.The closer to the back the easier it will be to back up. Deck is looking great .

larrydown60

Thanks for the replies. I am hoping to get the axles done this weekend and I will post more pics Thanks again

Delawhere Jack

What the other guys said, and... it would be a good idea to put a "crash chain(s)" on there as well. Just some heavy chain (or two) welded to the bed with hooks to attach to the head when it is secured for travel. In the event that you get in an accident, or have to brake really hard, it's nice to have some back up to insure the saw head doesn't come through your back window.

Ox

x2 of what the others said.  It sounds like you have a good idea on what needs to be done and it sounds right to me.  You have a very solid mill there.  Especially good that you realize getting rid of the small bandwheels is a good thing.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

plowboyswr

Rule of thumb that I was told by a local trailer manufacturer was 60/40. If using a single axle the axle is the measure point. If using two the center spring hanger. Just my .02
Just an ole farm boy takin one day at a time.
Steve

Ljohnsaw

Sweet build!

I have a couple of questions.  Are you planning on putting both axles (tandem) on the mill?  If so, is that because you plan on using the mill to haul logs?  If not, you only need one axle (even though you have a VERY stout frame).  Tandem do ride very nice but the tires wear quicker (because of scuffing in turns) so you will have extra expenses.  Will you have brakes?  Always nice to have.

On your head (I know you said you are redoing), it looks like you have wheels riding on the lower lip of the C channel, is that correct?  That will likely cause you some headache down the road.  Sawdust and wood chips will land there and cause your mill to bump up and down giving you inconsistent cuts (not flat).  A sawdust wiper would help but a grooved wheel riding on an edge (like angle iron) will prevent that problem.

Looking good!
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

larrydown60

Yes john the wheels of the the saw frame are also being moved to the top of frame using 1x1 inverted angle. I also plan on mounting both axles to frame, might plan on hauling it to Florida in a few years. I plan on having electric brakes on the axles. The saw mill was setting on a camper frame and I just took the axles from that frame. I also plan on making the tongue out of 3x3x 1/4 that will be removable, hate banging my shins. Not sure of how long to make the tongue and If I add this to the length of where to place the axles? and thanks everyone for your comments keep them coming.Larry If I learn something new every day it has been a good day     

Magicman

I would make the tongue long enough so that I could jackknife to the limits of the hitch without hitting the truck.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

plowboyswr

The tongue of your trailer needs to be at least half of the width of your tow vehicle. I usually go 6 inches beyond that. on a standard pickup truck that would be 3 feet 6 inches this allows you to make a sharp turn without getting the back of the truck into the trailer deck. We always figured axle placement by the trailer deck not including the tongue.
Just an ole farm boy takin one day at a time.
Steve

larrydown60

Thanks, plowboyswr , magicman and delawherejack . I bought set of plans from ebay for a sawmill a year ago the sawmill looked like it was really strong it was cutting mesquite. I am using few things off that set of plans and a lot from other mills that are already built, plus all the info I have read on ff. With all your Ideas and suggestions I will have a sweat sawmill thanks everyone

Ox

This is a good way to do almost anything - gather info from many places and put them all together and come up with a plan that will work for you.

You mentioned moving to Florida in a few years.  Could it be?  Another New Yorker fleeing the sinking ship?  :D
Our plan is around 10 years from now if everything works out right and nothing major happens.
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

larrydown60

OX, plan is to spend winters down there and summers up here, to hot down there in the summer. I lived in Jacksonville Fla for 15 years thank god for air conditioning and pools.

Ox

I think snowbirding is a good way to go if you're able to pull it off.  Well done!
K.I.S.S. - Keep It Simple Stupid
Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without
1989 GMC 3500 4x4 diesel dump and plow truck, 1964 Oliver 1600 Industrial with Parsons loader and backhoe, 1986 Zetor 5211, Cat's Claw sharpener, single tooth setter, homemade Linn Lumber 1900 style mill, old tools

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