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LT40 Idle Wheel Bearing Replacement

Started by terrifictimbersllc, October 11, 2018, 05:53:06 PM

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terrifictimbersllc

I replaced my idle wheel bearing for a second time today.  To explain the history of this, the original bearing lasted 3200 hours and about 15 years before it started to make noise and appear to wobble- what I mean is that pressure fluctuations on the tension gauge started and increased which appeared to be related to revolutions of the wheels but not buildup of any sap lumps under the belts. That was 2 years ago.  At that time I replaced the original bearing with a new one from WM. I had a machine shop press out the old one and press in the new one.  The wobble and screech disappeared.  

Then about a month ago, with 2 years  900 hours on the replacement,  the pressure fluctuations followed by increasing noise began again.  So, I ordered a brand new wheel/bearing assembly ($280), together with another replacement bearing (58 dollars) and put on the new wheel/bearing assembly which eliminated the noise and fluctuation.  I purchased the new bearing to put in the old wheel,  so I would have a backup and not have to cancel 3 days of sawing the next time this happened.

Fast forward to a couple of days ago.  I soaked the old wheel/bearing with Blue Creeper overnight and , with the turned end grain white oak  block shown below, was able to loosen the old bearing with some firm but not too bad blows from an 8 lb sledge hammer on my wood work bench. Once it gave a 1/16" inch it started to move out with much less force.


 

Using another oak block with a bandsaw hole in it, I was able to use the round block above to knock out the bearing completely.  



 

I took off the grease seals and one of the plastic ball spacer holder things to look inside the bearing and this is what it looked like.  I can't see that it was obviously bad other than there was some rust on the balls inside.  I don't know how much grease is supposed to be in there.  The balls and their plastic spacer holders had grease on them.  In fairness it doesnt look good because the plastic ball spacer holder is out and the balls are not held in position like they would be in operation.  All else I can say for sure is that before disassembly the bearing felt a little rough when I spun it in my hands.  

 

Anyway after wire wheel brushing and cleaning out the inside of the bearing housing, and cleaning off the new bearing, I could still see that some force would be needed to make the new bearing go in. That made me nervous since it is such a big bearing.  I could have taken it to the machine shop, but  thought maybe heating the wheel with a torch would let me put the bearing in myself. But before doing this I called a very knowledgable farmer friend who I talked with before about this.

He said he's had good luck with slip fit bearings, by heating one part in the oven, an putting the other part in the freezer and recommended what to do.  So, I put the new bearing in the freezer overnight.  Then this morning, after the wife left, I put the wheel in the oven at 280 degrees for 45 minutes. I got all ready with blanket, towels, gloves, blocks, hammer, and wrapped up and ran both parts down to the shop.

There was no need for most of that fuss. I could have put it in in the kitchen.   I was amazed that the 3-7/8" x 1-1/2" bearing dropped right into the band wheel housing like my friend said it would.  No tapping, nothing. It just fell right in.  I set the assembly outside on concrete to cool and later took these pix.


 

 

So now I have a backup wheel/bearing assembly so the next time this happens I don't have to reschedule 3 days of jobs while I wait for a new bearing to come.  

I would have been willing to pay extra for a top of the line- like SKF- bearing if it means it would last 3000 instead of 900 hours.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Crossroads

Glad it all worked out, a little heat goes a long way...
With the right fulcrum and enough leverage, you can move the world!

2017 LT40 wide, BMS250 and BMT250,036 stihl, 2001 Dodge 3500 5.9 Cummins, l8000 Ford dump truck, hr16 Terex excavator, Valley je 2x24 edger, Gehl ctl65 skid steer, JD350c dozer

armechanic

Most bearings don't have much grease in them. Once upon a time I worked on self propelled Howitzers and had a run of fan tower bearings going out premature (very high speed),  I took the side off of a new one and there were three dabs of grease in it so from then on I removed the plastic shield and packed them, no more issues.
1989 Lt 40, D6C CAT, Home made wood processer in progress.

PAmizerman

Now that's too slick!! I'll have to remember that
Woodmizer lt40 super remote 42hp Kubota diesel. Accuset II
Hydraulics everywhere
Woodmizer edger 26hp cat diesel
Traverse 6035 telehandler
Case 95xt skidloader
http://byrnemillwork.com/
WM bms250 sharpener
WM bmt250 setter
and a lot of back breaking work!!

78NHTFY

Very nice repair!  That knowledgeable farmer friend sure did you a good turn.....All the best, Rob.
If you have time, you win....

DPatton

That is a slick trick and you did a great job illustrating the repair in this post. Your method of heating is probably the safest way to do it minimizing the risk of unnecessarily overheating the metal. I also got a good chuckle :D :D :D out of the "Then this morning, after the wife left," portion of your story. 
TimberKing 1600, 30' gooseneck trailer, Chevy HD2500, Echo Chainsaw, 60" Logrite.

Work isn't so bad when you enjoy what your doing.
D & S Sawmill Services

JB Griffin

Personally, I would knock that new bearing out of the spare bandwheel and put a good bearing in, that way when the one on the mill fails you can just slap the spare on and be good for another 3k hrs. Any part or bearing supply place can cross reference the numbers.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

charles mann

another way to do it if the part won't fit in the oven. use a heat gun, wrap some kind of heat/fire resistant material on 1 side, and direct the heat to the part. use dry ice, with a bit of isopropyl alcohol in a container that the part will fit in. place part to be cooled in container, samiching the part between 2 pieces of dry ice, but don't let the part become submerged in the alcohol. cover container with a bath towel, checking periodically and when the part has a thick layer of frost on it, and the heated part is around 100F or hotter, put the chilled part in the heated part. we use that method while in the field, where access to a bearing heater is out of the question, or the part can't be heated much. we shrink the other part, and likely press the bearing in. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: JB Griffin on October 13, 2018, 09:01:15 PM
Personally, I would knock that new bearing out of the spare bandwheel and put a good bearing in, that way when the one on the mill fails you can just slap the spare on and be good for another 3k hrs. Any part or bearing supply place can cross reference the numbers.
Thanks, but I trust WM and think the ones in the new wheel and my spare that I just bought are good bearings.  Hoping I just got a not so good one. We'll see. No way I'd knock out a new one I just installed when I have a spare and the bearing does give you fair warning.   If I have another fail I'll see if I can get an SKF from a local bearing distributor.  I searched for it on line, SKF or Nachi, nothing doing.  It is a 5309-2RS if anyone else wants to give it a shot.
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Stephen1

That is a slick repair, that needs bookmarking.
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Sawmill Man

I put anti-seize on mine so mabe next time the whole process will be a lot easier.
"I could have sworn I went over that one with the metal detector".

GAB

terrifictimbersllc:
In the last picture of the original post the number on the bearing I believe reads 5309RS, yet in post number 8 you wrote " It is a 5309-2RS if anyone else wants to give it a shot."
Could you please clarify for me?
Thanks,
Gerald
W-M LT40HDD34, SLR, JD 420, JD 950w/loader and Woods backhoe, V3507 Fransguard winch, Cordwood Saw, 18' flat bed trailer, and other toys.

terrifictimbersllc

Quote from: GAB on October 15, 2018, 10:40:34 AM
terrifictimbersllc:
In the last picture of the original post the number on the bearing I believe reads 5309RS, yet in post number 8 you wrote " It is a 5309-2RS if anyone else wants to give it a shot."
Could you please clarify for me?
Thanks,
Gerald
WM has it listed as 5309-2RS.   My understanding is 2RS means 2 rubber seals which is what it has.  The pictures show both rubber seals labelled as 5309RS, maybe that just pertains to the labelling of a rubber seal. Perhaps it would be presumptuous for one seal to speak for another. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

JB Griffin

Just sayin I wouldn't waste my time or money on those junk peer bearings. Just not worth the downtime.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

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