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024AV vs. Dremel tool

Started by Woodcutter_Mo, February 26, 2019, 08:21:45 PM

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Woodcutter_Mo

 The other day while I was replacing the fuel line on the old 024AV, I pulled the cylinder off and gave the intake and exhaust ports a little "modification" with the Dremel  ;D. After a retune and test it seems to run pretty good.

 I will be pulling the jug again to put a better base gasket on fairly soon, is there anything else that could use a bit of dremeling before I put it back together? I've not found much on the 024AV's and the 026 pics I've seen online seem to look a little different. Thanks
 
 
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

wild262

If your after more gains, just find a 026 cylinder and replace yours with that.  That should make you smile. :)

Woodcutter_Mo

Quote from: wild262 on February 27, 2019, 07:54:40 AM
If your after more gains, just find a 026 cylinder and replace yours with that.  That should make you smile. :)
I was thinking about doing that, but I'm not sure if the 024 AV will fit the 026 cylinder. I know the 024 Super will as it has the longer stroke like the 026.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

Al_Smith

You could get some slight improvements but it would be better if the compression would be improved by either shaving the cylinder or eliminating the base gasket .It would stand to reason if you could get improvements on say an 044 or 066 you certainly could on a little 024 .
Generally speaking if you did nothing but improve the exhaust side of the engine it will get the most gains .On a two cycle you have to work backwards starting with the exhaust .Because if it can't get out it can't get in .
I've got an 024 that had a very tiny burn on the exhaust side of the piston.Traded in because the owner worried about and bought of all things a 290 .All I did was cut the baffles and screens out of the muffler and retuned the carb .Not one more thing and that pepped it up and that was 6 years ago .It's a little saw and does what little saws are supposed to .It's a firewood cutter not an oak slayer . 

Woodcutter_Mo

 Ok, I will look at improving the compression next. I watched a video on checking the cylinder squish, so I will see how it looks. 

 So far what I did was opened the exhaust ports to the size of the gasket opening and widened the port a bit to where there is still enough left to seal on the skirt and the same with the intake side, and also ground out the casting imperfections in the ports. 
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

wild262

Make sure you level out the sharp edge where you used a grinder as you don't want to catch a ring.  Also make your squish no less than 20 thou clearance, if not using a base gasket you will want to use 1194 sealant of both pieces (thin coat). Dirko is another good sealant to use.  These have been proven to work.  Have fun. :)

Woodcutter_Mo

 I pulled the cylinder again today and did some mild grinding in the transfers. When I put it back together and started it, it ran a bit rich in the top end. Is that typical?

  After I got it re-adjusted it seems to be holding it's rpm better in the cut in 16" seasoned post oak so I'm confident it made some positive difference.
 
 I forgot to check the squish while I was at it, but I will have it apart again before too long.
-WoodMizer LT25
-592XP full wrap, 372XP, 550XP, 455 Rancher, RedMax GZ3500T
-Fixer-uppers/projects:
024AV, MS260, MS361, MS460, Shindaiwa 488, 394XPG

Air Lad

Can check squish with it all together
Just pull plug and feed solder in to edge of cylinder
Turn engine over by hand or pull cord gently
Remove squashed solder end and measure with vernier calipers
My 260c was 30 thou stock
google it for some video of the 0peration

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