Anybody using WoodOwl bits?

[btulloh]

I need a 1 1/2 and a 1 1/4 inch bit for drilling leg holes in benches, and drilling out mortises.  Looking around, so far the Wood Owl bits look to be the best choice.  Has anybody used these?  Like 'em?  

I really don't need ship auger bits in general, so I hesitate to go that route.

[tule peak timber]

I use them,,,and like them   Rob

[btulloh]

Good deal. Placing my order now. Thanks.

[btulloh]

After further review . . .  

Due to availability issues, I ordered the 1 1/2 wood owl and the 1 1/4 inch Irwin.  I'll be able to compare them and see which I prefer.  

I have a couple of the Irwin ship auger bits and they do ok.  This looks like the same design, just shorter.  The wood owl bit is substantially different.  

I've been using spade bits for these larger holes, and I've made that work, but the spade bits are way less than ideal.  Anything will be a big improvement over the spade bits.

[tule peak timber]

I also use 4 flute metal roughing bits, giant twist drills, and big forstner bits for holes then mortise chisels to to square things up for interesting looking "holes". I modified a press to run the mortise chisels. 

[btulloh]

I have a delta mortiser, but don't use it for angled holes generally.  I have drilled angled holes with forstner bits, but I have to start square and then tilt to the angle.  Awkward, and it leaves a round hole on the outside.  Short shank makes it hard to reference to a bevel gauge.  

The old-fashioned spoon bit is really good for chairs and such, but it's impractical in larger sizes.  Hard to find old spoon bits that are restorable anyway.  

Brace and bit is really good for angled holes and it's easy to tune in the angle, but my supply of elbow grease is running low.

Maybe I need a 5 axis, 300 watt CNC laser.  8)  Or an apprentice.   8) 8)

[btulloh]

Planning to make some rustic benches with minimal time involved.  Round through-tenon, wedge, sand the top, timber oil.

As opposed to:



      Bench top before sanding.



 

 

This was supposed to be a quick thing for an old fellow that had done me a few favors.  I got carried away.

[tule peak timber]

Nice build.....
  If you are going to make several at a price point, think up a universal jig that you can use a drill/dowel, or a router for double slip tenons. Buy the Fesstool domino if you are doing enough of them. Part of the job is figuring out how to do it.......

[btulloh]

Roger that.  I don't ever seem to do things for sale.  I'm building a few to give to a few different people.  Plus I need to make a couple new shave horses and I'm tired using spade bits for the leg holes.

I'm cursed with a disdain for repetition.  >:(  I usually go through all the figuring, then never build another one.  I do keep all the jigs and templates though.  Just in case. 

This little box required about 12 jigs and fixtures.  Never did get a good photo of it.  Padauk and quilted maple


 

This was a sub cabinet (down-firing sub) based on an antique radio.  I don't think I have any pix after the finish went on.  





One-offs.  No commerce involved.  

Some day maybe I'll sell something.

[tule peak timber]

Yours is the work of an accomplished craftsman.......
    Trying to balance excellence, and still try to make a profit is akin to the greyhounds chasing the mechanical bone at a racetrack.
 

[btulloh]

Thanks.

Good analogy. Not everyone solves that problem. Looks like you have. Fortunately it's just a sport for  me - and the greyhounds.

Do you go down to the Design in Wood exhibition at del Mar?  Lots of nice work to see. I always wonder who's making a good living.

[tule peak timber]

No to Del Mar. Been invited, but I'd rather lose money on a bigger scale........ :D :D :D :D :D

[btulloh]

You can just go to look. Avoids that whole jury thing. One hour-ish drive for you?

[tule peak timber]

About 90 minutes.
 You will laugh when I tell you that I almost never leave the hill......The dentist 2x's a year , The sawing project a couple of months ago , and to look at land in Montana/Idaho last year for a few days. That's it for 13 years.

[btulloh]

I totally get it. Not laughing. Seems about right. I tend to stay on the place here and have plenty of different activities without going somewhere else. A lot different now than when I lived out there. Corporate grind and like a five alarm fire all the time. New York once a month, Tokyo three or four times a year. Some miscellaneous trips on top of that. Loved it. Left it. Enjoying what's right here.

[Magicman]

Neither have I missed the grind.  I was booted downsized out at a mere 51 years old, but have managed to survive these almost 25 years.  Still sawing part time, but surviving.

The one luxury we do afford ourselves is to take a vacation trip each year.    Sorta removes the cobwebs. 

[tule peak timber]

 8)

[btulloh]

Bits delivered. One Owl, one Irwin. Substantial pieces of steel. Testing tomorrow.



 

[tule peak timber]

It will be interesting to hear about your findings. I think I own both, but don't really use augers much.What are you driving them with ?

[doc henderson]

I have plenty of Irwin bits and saws, but not owl.  what are the holes for?

[doc henderson]

went back a read about your benches a bit.  I use forstner's so the hole is "pretty" and I have less of a center point to worry about if I am nearing the surface and do not want a through joint.  I rigged my radial drill press (delta) into a compound drill press with a hinged table and getting good results. pics in gallery and "what up benches".  I have a straight rod I use in the chuck to set my angle then change to forstner.  or for rustic use and angle gage and eye ball it.

[Ljohnsaw]

I can't quite make it out in the pictures but is the Owl a triple flute bit?  And the Irwin is a single flute?  Interesting.  I've always had 2-flute bits - sometimes one flute is just a short thing to keep the cutting balanced.

[btulloh]

TPT - I'm going to use a big makita 20v with a helper handle and see how that goes.  If the Irwin ship auger bits I've got are any indication, it might be a struggle and I'll have to kick it up a notch.  They tend to self-feed pretty aggressively.  I've even thought about filing down the threads a little on the pilot to calm them down, but . . .

LJS - the Owl is three-fluted.  Two vastly different designs.  It's gotten too hot right now to enjoy the shop, so I'm waiting for early morning tomorrow.  Report to follow.

Doc - These will be for through-holes.  The long point lets me locate the exit from the other side before the bit exits and makes a mess.  Then finish from the other side.  Very old technique.  Sometimes I clamp a backup board on the exit side, then drill straight through.  Either way leaves a clean exit wound.

[tule peak timber]

I have an older Milwaukee hole shooter that runs low and slow with lots of torque. An application where old , heavy , slow, clunky, works well. Hang on ! ;D

[btulloh]

Roger that. I'm fully prepared for torque to travel in the undesired direction. I run into more and more situations where I need the old slow hole hog.

[doc henderson]

with a screw type bit, I agree better to finish from the back, as well with forstners, but with a compound angle can be tough.  backer board and going through so the screw and keep pulling not a bad idea.  If you are doing this by hand, how accurate do you need/want your angles.  I guess if you are squaring them up, you can correct some with a chisel. 

[btulloh]

Only had a few minutes this morning to try a couple test holes.  I forgot I had a breakfast "meeting" which took up much of the cooler period, but I did run down early and give it a quick go.

Both bits are manageable in the regular drill, but just barely.  I like the Irwin design better for most of my needs.  Smoother, more accurate holes.  The Owl is ok, but it tends to wobble in the hole a bit, making the hole less accurate, but still acceptable for what I will be doing with it.  The Owl bits seemed to be aimed at drilling in framing.  It says it's "nail proof", which would be a nice thing for drilling in framing.

[Dan_Shade]

Be aware of how hot your drill can get using those augers.  

A friend smoked one of my drills when drilling holes for wiring. 

[btulloh]

Good point.  

Even the 1/2" ship auger has caused my battery protection to trip out.  These bits demand some big power.  I've been on the lookout for an appropriate RA drill that will run these things, but until then I'm just taking it easy.  Between the battery protection and my wrists, I don't have much choice.  Fortunately, I've just got a few holes now and then to deal with.

[tule peak timber]

Only had a few minutes this morning to try a couple test holes.  I forgot I had a breakfast "meeting" which took up much of the cooler period, but I did run down early and give it a quick go.

Both bits are manageable in the regular drill, but just barely.  I like the Irwin design better for most of my needs.  Smoother, more accurate holes.  The Owl is ok, but it tends to wobble in the hole a bit, making the hole less accurate, but still acceptable for what I will be doing with it.  The Owl bits seemed to be aimed at drilling in framing.  It says it's "nail proof", which would be a nice thing for drilling in framing.

Yes, I can say that they will chew through nails !

[doc henderson]

Irwin also makes a "speedbore" with I think 3 flutes.  they work good in soft wood and come in 3 packs or so and not too pricey, available at lowes ect.