iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

Wood stoves,update and need help

Started by fishfighter, November 06, 2015, 09:56:09 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

fishfighter

I'm a southern guy and know nothing about wood burning stoves other then what I had read.

The camp I'm building is right under 900 sqf living. 2 bedrooms/1 bath. The living room/kitchen are a open plan. I'm looking a installing a wood burner in that area for main heating. Firewood is never a problem for me.

Now those of y'all that have any experience with a burner, could you point me in the right direction for my needs? Oh, of course I'm not looking to break the bank. ;D

Thanks from a southerner.

beenthere

A whole lot of things to consider, most of which would center around what you want.

Just for starters...
Airtight? View of fire? Location of chimney? Center of the room? Insurance restrictions? Floor material? Cook top? Catalytic converter? Size of wood? Ash removal?
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

SLawyer Dave

I suspect Louisiana probably does not have the air quality standards that are coming into vogue here in California.  However, eventually such regulations will probably be found in every state.  So one issue you might want to keep in mind, is that if you purchase a wood stove that is E.P.A. Certified, then generally the local and state regulations won't apply to you.  Several years ago in my county, they started having "voluntary no burn days", during the winter, where you were not supposed to burn for heat.  Then they started trying to make it mandatory.  I have an E.P.A. Certified woodstove in my house, (now my rental), so the local rules don't apply to me and I can burn it anytime I want. 

No, despite what everyone may say, I don't fire it off on No Burn Days just to thumb my nose at the Air Quality People.  (That's just a side benefit)   8)

fishfighter

My plan is to have it free standing about center of a 13'x24' area room that is the living room/kitchen. The stack will go straight up and thru the roof. That is an easy 20'+ run in the area I want to install it.

As for as the base, I would install a fire brick base per whatever calls for.

EPA, no problem here. We can burn all that we want. Firewood size, I cut 20" now for my fireplace, but cutting shorter for a stove wouldn't be a problem.

I would like a burner with a door window.

Insurance, no problem there as long as one installs per instructions.

So, the search is still on.

Slingshot

 
  I use a Lopi, Endeavor.  It will take an 18 inch log but 16 inch is best.
It has a blower and can be used with or without. Will hold heat over-night.
a little pricey new but I got a good deal used and like new.
 

 



 

___________________________
Charles


Raider Bill

I have a Englander. I would not recommend buying one.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.
My advice on aging gracefully... ride fast bikes and date faster women, drink good tequila, practice your draw daily, be honest and fair in your dealings, but suffer not fools. Eat a hearty breakfast, and remember, ALL politicians are crooks.

Weekend_Sawyer

 I have 2 Sierra wood stoves i believe they are model 8000's with a glass door and can be loaded from the front or side. It looks alot like slingshot's stove but can take a 24" log. I love the glass front. I also like the flat stove tops. In the winter I cook pots of beans and stews in my dutch oven on it. Love it!
Imagine, Me a Tree Farmer.
Jon, Appalachian American Wannabe.

fishfighter


fishfighter

OK guys, I found a used one. Don't know anything about it. It's a Taiwanese made stove. The company that made it is called Chuan Sheng Metal inc. Can't find anything about them. :o The model # is PS-340S parlor stove.
There is no fire bricks in it.

Here are a few pictures of it.



 



 



 



 



 



 

All the main joints of the fire box have a black calking and the front door has a screen that is mounted in the grill. There are two dampers, one on the front and one on the side door. The pan covers and stove top is removable.

Also, to clean it up, can I use a steel brush to remove the rust? I know there is a paste to apply to the outside that is made for cast iron stoves that I will apply.

If no one knows about it, any idea as to where to look?

Thanks

beenthere

What is the "paste" that you know about for the outside of cast iron stoves?  That is a new one to me.

Other than some rust, the stove looks to be in pretty good shape. I'd treat it like any cast iron stove. 
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Raider Bill

My guess is he means wood stove black paste. Put's the black back in.
The First 70 years of childhood is always the hardest.
My advice on aging gracefully... ride fast bikes and date faster women, drink good tequila, practice your draw daily, be honest and fair in your dealings, but suffer not fools. Eat a hearty breakfast, and remember, ALL politicians are crooks.

BradMarks

It looks decent but I would look very closely for cracks.  Sourcing the shape of the stovepipe could be interesting?, not sure. And if me, I would definitely add the 1" thick fire bricks on bottom and part way up side (1 row).

fishfighter

Quote from: BradMarks on November 11, 2015, 02:33:23 PM
It looks decent but I would look very closely for cracks.  Sourcing the shape of the stovepipe could be interesting?, not sure. And if me, I would definitely add the 1" thick fire bricks on bottom and part way up side (1 row).

Had a big concern about that and yes, that is my plans. Stack, there is a 6" piping for it. I will be installing a double wall pipe thru the roof. Long run for that. That is going to cost more the three times what I paid for the stove. :D Gave $150 for the stove.

I started cleaning it up with a steel brush. So far, no cracks that I can see. Once I finish cleaning it, I will just fire it up on the driveway.

The screen in the front door, my plans are to change that out to glass. I have a buddy that owns a glass company. I just happen to change out the house stove this week, I can rob the glass from the old stove if need be. ;D

Door gaskets. I will try to install some after the fact of firing it off. No since jumping the gun till I see there is no cracks after firing it off.

Heating area will be a 13x24 area here in the south. We only have on the avg of about 5 weeks of real cold weather that gets some times in the 20'sF. This will be used as a weekend heating, day time, but I will have a central heating/cooling system in place.

21incher

Nice looking stove. Does it have a UL listing?  Around here you need that to get your insurance co. to cover it. :)
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

bitternut

Hey fishfighter good luck with your stove selection. If your stove doesn't work out for you I would like to agree with slingshot's choice of stove. I have the same stove ( Lopi Endeavor ) in my camp and love it. I also have the fireplace insert model of that stove ( Lopi Revere ) that totally heats my home. Both models are the same basic design and function the same. Both are very clean burning with large glass fire view doors and non-catalytic. They also are both cook top stoves.

Just thought I would give my input in case the stove you bought does not work out to your satisfaction.

thecfarm

The hardware store I work at has a couple sizes of those ovals pipes. Starts oval and than goes round. I think a stove shop could get them. Some may not carry them,but should be able to order what you need.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Ljohnsaw

Our friend's cabin has a Lopi "Answer" with the same flat top/fire view glass door.  Once their cabin is up to temp (takes a day to go from 33° up to 68°) it actually will heat you out of the place, even when temps are in the teens.  You have to consider the "mass" of the structure you are heating, especially when it is left cold during the week.

Are you heating all week or just for the weekend visits?  The stove you have there looks like it did have a few rows of firebrick.
John Sawicky

Just North-East of Sacramento...

SkyTrak 9038, Ford 545D FEL, Davis Little Monster backhoe, Case 16+4 Trencher, Home Built 42" capacity/36" cut Bandmill up to 54' long - using it all to build a timber frame cabin.

fishfighter

Quote from: 21incher on November 11, 2015, 06:20:13 PM
Nice looking stove. Does it have a UL listing?  Around here you need that to get your insurance co. to cover it. :)

Yes, it does.

Will be using it at any time. I'm retired. So, if I get in the dog house with the wife, I could always head to the camp. ;D Also, this camp will be used by family members that I always have coming from out of town.

Found piping on the net for it. Wasn't a problem at all.

beenthere

Quote from: fishfighter on November 12, 2015, 05:23:35 AM

..........So, if I get in the dog house with the wife, I could always head to the camp. ;D Also, this camp will be used by family members that I always have coming from out of town.
.................

One worry I'd have would be others firing that wood stove without knowing what can go wrong.. too much wood, too much air, leaving it unattended, etc. 
A wood stove takes some skill and time learning just how it reacts when used for each location - IMO.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

fishfighter

Yes, that is true. Like I said, I will have AC/heating installed. ;D

The stove cleaned up good. No cracks that I could see. I will fire it up tomorrow in the opening to check and see if I see any cracks then. I sure there are none always.



 

Still have more to clean on it, but no reason to spend the time it there are any problems.

fishfighter

Fired it off. That sucker does put out a lot of heat. ;D Heck, I tried to over fire it t see if there were any cracks. All good. even the stack was clear with no smoke once it got a good bed of coals. Didn't have any problem with any smoke when first firing it up. ;D I think this is going to work out just nice. 8)



 

That stack was from an old fire place that I just stuck on it. worked good doing that. 8)

ernbilly

Ditto on it having a UL listing. Had a Nationwide rep tell me that they wouldn't cover fire damage caused by an unlisted burner.

fishfighter

Don't know if I should post this here or start another thread.

Need y'all's help again. Bear with me, new to wood stoves.

I couldn't find anything on the stove. >:( Anyway, the tag that is on it gives instructions on installing it.

For my base under it, after the sub floor, I put down some 1/2" perma concrete board. Then I will install some 2 1/2" thick fire bricks that are rated at 3KF. The stove will set dead center of that. The base area is 45 1/2" by 45 1/2". That is about 1"  more all around as for as what the tag is stating for clearance. Tag states 12" back side and 8" front side. 12" side to side. The fire box is 20"D x 22"W.

Will the base be good? It falls center, right over a sill and there is a concrete pillar dead center under the stove. Support, not a problem.

Combustion. Tag states 33" from the fire box around and the back states 39". I will have part of the kitchen cabinets that will be about 40" away from the back side.

Good enough?

Stove top. This is a biggie here. The stove sits almost directly under a wood beam. It is 62" to the bottom of this beam. Is that far enough away? Side view.



 

Now were the exhaust pipe will go thru the ceiling, I will be using a double wall stove pipe all the way out the roof. It will be a straight run. The piping calls for 8" clearance, I will have 12" all around the piping. That includes that big beam. I feel safe on that. Still, that beam, 62" away from the top of the stove.



 

Help me out guys. Kind of scared here. ;D

thecfarm

Got a local fire dept?? I think they would rather check the set up for you instead of coming with the fire trucks with the red lights going.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

fishfighter

Problem is, here in the south, wood burning stoves are not used. Nobody around here knows anything about them, nor do I.

beenthere

FF
If you are going up above the stove with your insulated stack pipe, and you put it through the roof with the proper thimble, you should have no problem with clearance to your wood parts...

Google this:
Quotewood stove pipe installation through the roof

and you will see the variety of ways to accommodate your roof. But keeping an eagle eye on it when burning is always a must.

Pic of my wood stove.. which I believe to be similar to yours...
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

whiskers

Three times the diameter of the black pipe to any combustible. You might consider installing the male ends down to keep any moisture from seeping out at the couplings. Pop rivet the couplings, screws can back out. A black pipe damper can help control a chimney fire. The trim cap (where the smoke and sparks come out) should be 2 feet above any combustible ten feet horizontal or 2 feet above the ridge. The trim cap should have a screen, think sparks and squirrels, helps keep one in and the other out. The foundation should have 18 inches or more in front of the doors, hot stuff rolls out when you least expect it, don't sleep or leave unattended while the doors are open. Bean pot and a kettle you're all set.
many irons in the fire.........

JB Griffin

Its a complete waste of money and fuel to use double wall pipe all the way.
You need to use double wall through the ceiling, attic, and roof, single wall from the stove to the ceiling box for the double wall stuff. The single wall will radiate heat as the fire burns, double wall won't as much.

This is how our flue is set up and how the company that made the triple wall flue kit we bought said to do it.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

fishfighter

JB, I had saw that, but I have concerns about the center beam and heat. The outside of the pipe would be about 12" away at the ceiling. If I remember right, single piping needs 18" clearance.

I would feel a lot better using double wall pipe all the way up.

Thanks guys, y'all putting my mine at ease. Going to order my piping today. The only other problem I see is getting the right roof flashing. The roof is steel R panel. I will contact a few of the companies that sell this type of roofing for a flashing.

gspren

    Remember that all of those clearances are double or triple the distance needed under normal circumstances but are aimed at what is needed for an extreme chimney fire. If you want a little extra safety where the pipe goes past the beam use a sheet of stainless about 18" square and space it about an inch off the beam with some ceramic fence post insulators, air travel behind the sheet will protect the beam.
Stihl 041, 044 & 261, Kubota 400 RTV, Kubota BX 2670, Ferris Zero turn

beenthere

Your double wall pipe will not give much heat off to harm that wood beam @ 12" distance.

My double wall pipe, with a real hot fire, is almost bearable to keep a hand on it.

But will be easy to monitor as you can see the beam and can test/evaluate any heat problems that might arise, and shield it if necessary. IMO

Another point, you can run this stove hot at times when using it, and not have a problem with any build-up of creosote that would cause a chimney fire.
Doesn't appear that it is an airtight stove, so won't be dampered off at anytime to cause creosote to build up in the first place.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

John Mc

Quote from: JB Griffin on November 18, 2015, 10:17:59 PM
Its a complete waste of money and fuel to use double wall pipe all the way.
You need to use double wall through the ceiling, attic, and roof, single wall from the stove to the ceiling box for the double wall stuff. The single wall will radiate heat as the fire burns, double wall won't as much.

He may not want the stovepipe to radiate all that much. I'm not sure how well sealed or insulated the building is, but given that he's only heating 900 sq ft, and he's not in an extremely cold climate, it's possible that firing up that stove might make it so hot it drives him right out of the building.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

fishfighter

Didn't get a chance to order. Kind of fell under the weather. Had a very "bad" day. Sucks fighting heart failure. >:( The wife wanted to rush me to the hospital, but I refused. Have to go in today for blood work anyway.

I will be adding a damper in the piping to help control burn rate. I'm a retired power plant control room operator and used to run a 600 MW coal fire plant. So, when it comes to firing a boiler, I kind of know the ends and outs. ;D

This stove is not air tight at all. I will be adding some gaskets, also sealing the top plate. It is going to be a work in progress as needed.

We only get about three weeks of cold weather a year. Down here one can see all four seasons in a weeks time in the winter. ;D

Once I get it together, I will fire it up and used a IR gun to check temperatures of everything. If I need a shield, I will add one. Good idea of adding fence insulators. ;)

There is one thing that hangs inside the stove. A case iron plate that is hanging on a screw that is above the side door, It is about 4"x 6". I have no idea for what it serves. I will get a picture of it today and where it is mounted.

thecfarm

That piece that hangs down,sounds like to help keep the smoke from coming out towards you when the door is open. But does sound kinda small. Most are on a pivot and will swing into the stove.
That heart of yours is nothing to fool with. I suppose I sound like your wife now???
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

fishfighter

That sounds about right on that plate. It does pivot up and swings in.

Next Tuesday will make 5 years to the date from the first time I started with heart failure. All from a viro infection. >:( I had worse days in the pass. I go to a heart transplant center once a month to be checked. Starting next week, I will be going back on IV's for Dubutamine infusions. Been on that on and off the last 4 years. >:( Weekly blood work this morning will tell all what is going on.

21incher

When I installed my woodstove there was a R value on the stove for the base that had to be met. There are listings of the R value of different materials online. I had to stack up 5 layers of cement board and a layer of ceramic tile to make my installation meet the building code.  I use double wall pipe in my house and it helps keep the chimney hot so there has never been any build up of creosote at all. Good luck on your blood work.
Hudson HFE-21 on a custom trailer, Deere 4100, Kubota BX 2360, Echo CS590 & CS310, home built wood splitter, home built log arch, a logrite cant hook and a bread machine. And a Kubota Sidekick with a Defective Subaru motor.

Thank You Sponsors!