What is the difference between the Stihl 026 and the MS260 pro other than the 260 pro has the compression release? For my small saw I have a 026 and just bought this weekend a mint condition MS260 pro because a guy can never have to many saws and I cannot tell anything different other than the compression release and obviously it is newer.
The only real difference may be the fuel caps and air filter. I was surprised by how tiny the exhaust outlet hole was on my 260. I opened it up and it runs quite a bit better now.
So what size of hole did you go with?
Are they both closed transfers?
Is it just an 026 or the 026 pro ? I think the pro models have the adjustable oilers on them, my old 026 doesn't.
Was there a 260Pro?? I know that the 026 came in a pro version but never heard of a 260pro
Yes they made a 260 pro because that is what I bought MS260 Pro. I have a 026 right also that was bought new in 1991.
What is closed transfers?
big thing is the porting degrees are different in those models , the 026 is a lower degree and that makes it perform different than the 260 , its kind of like the difference between the 066 compared to the last 660 made
So which one would out perform the other?
If I remember correctly they were both the same hp rating
depends on what saw you got , the older 026 is a better saw for me as we cut mostly bigger hardwood but the older 260 were not bad , the last 260's had high porting numbers so do not have much torque BUT I never kept a 026/260 more than a day logging here , just to slow for me . Now the new 261 I have ran a lot more and there a pretty good saw .
HP numbers that you read most times donot really show how a saw really cuts . Some saws showed big numbers but at a real high rpm and they would just fall on their face in the cut once you put them in bigger wood
Quote from: Deere80 on August 28, 2018, 10:50:36 AM
What is closed transfers?
The transfer port from crankcase to combustion space can be full open, fully closed or open with removable covers on the jug exterior, many jonsereds have the covers.
Open is just some vertical channels up the jug. Husky 61 for example. Closed transfers have a fully enclosed conduit to form the port that goes from block to head with no access. Husky 372 for instance
If you look at a husky 350, its like a cheap plastic clamshell clone of a 346XP. The 346 will be metal crankcase and closed port. Vs the 350 open ports and clam bottom. Otherwise theyre pretty interchangeable.
I think i may have a 260 pro and a 026 in the basket case lineup.. Will take a look next time im in that shed.
Thanks would appreciate it. Would like to know which one I should keep, I do not need both of them.
At some point the piston bore went from 44mm to 44.7 mm
Quote from: Mad Professor on September 02, 2018, 12:33:15 AM
At some point the piston bore went from 44mm to 44.7 mm
The MS260 got the 50.2cc displacement with the larger 44.7mm bore after serial #262187362.(Virginia Beach, US. made)
Production runs:
▪026 Aug 1988 - Aug 2001
▪MS260 Aug 2001 - Dec. 2011
Used both of them side by side this last weekend and the older 026 out performed the MS260 pro. I never adjusted the carb on the 260 but it seemed to run like it should but just didn't have as must power as the older one. It is a very nice smooth running saw but you could stop the chain so must easier.
Are they running the same size rim sprocket ?
Finally dug around. I have an MS260 PRO but not an 026. It was a pair of 036 parts saws i got confused on.
like I said the port timing is different , the 026 has a lower timing number so that produces more torque
EHP, that is exactly how it acts like it has a little more torque than the newer saw. The newer 260 pro is definitely a nice running saw so I might just keep both of them.
At a user-level, the MS260/026 Pros with 24" light-weight bars with chisel skip chains are my primary saws for mountain forest thinning work where most trees are less than 20". This config is perfect for all-day carry on hilly or mountain terrain (up to 30 degree slope). The Pro model can drive the 24" bar, but the non-Pro model is sluggish. The 24" bar is perfect for manual mastication from top down (twigs down to the main trunk), whereas a 20" won't reach up, down, or out that extra critical 4". Plus the 24" makes fast work of evergreens less than 20' height. :^)
Differences in the MS260 Pro that I know about are:
=====================================
- 44.7mm piston .vs. 44mm (makes a significant difference).
- adjustable oiler, spacer washer and crankshaft sleeve behind the clutch.
- regarding carburetor, I always install a 2-jet carb and matching jet grommet (there are a few styles).
- compression release and corresponding engine cover hole and grommet (for looks only).
- other diffs?: other than the "PRO" sticker, that's all I recall at the moment.
Minor note on Pro model rebuilds: The Hyway 44.7mm cylinder older than 1 (or more?) year gives high compression, but is sluggish due to poor design of the combustion chamber. Their recent redesigned cylinder works as well as the ($400) OEM Pro kit (because it is now designed similar to OEM).
Regarding Kit Quality: If the rings are not crisp and designed like the OEM or Caber rings, don't use 'em. Yeah, that includes the "split" rings. Personally, I only install Caber rings. When you get any aftermarket cylinder, compare the weight with the OEM cylinder. If it weighs notably less than the OEM cylinder, expect a short life for the kit (wasted labor). Also, before I install the circlips, I stretch them very slightly to open them up and give more tension to hold them in place. For ease of install / removal, I prefer the double-G design, because the C shaped circlips always find a way to become airborne, and the single-G design with sharp bend, too often breaks under stress exactly at the bend.