Gas Tank Quick-Disconnect

[Chuck White]

Just wondering if anyone has found a RELIABLE quick-disconnect fitting for the sawmill gas tank!

I've tried the ones supplied by Wood-Mizer, and boat gas tank connectors and just can't seem to find on that won't start sucking air after a seasons use!

It seems that the O-ring gets flattened and leaks air, and my engine will not run with any air coming up through the gas line!

Today I removed the gas tank fitting and extended the hose down through the hole and into the gas and the engine ran good all day long!

Any suggestions appreciated!

[charles mann]

I used hydraulic QDs for my 250gal overhead diesel tank. I dont want to keep the 12v pump always attached, so i plumbed it with 3/4" disconnects. Been working fine for 6yrs and it seals both end so i dont get an air pocket. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   I broke the one on the tank and ordered another from WM and got it a couple days later and installed it. Mine has been working fine for 4 years with no problem but I do see some cracks starting near the connection so I will likely cut a couple inches off and re-install it. I can't imagine what is causing yours to fail after a seasons use. 

[DR Buck]

On my gas tank mod I used stainless steel quick disconnects with auto shutoff when not connected.  Here is the link to the mod.   There are links in the post for parts I used.

Useful sawmill mods in Sawmills and Milling 

[Brad_bb]

I haven't had any problem with my plastic connector on my 2014 LT15.  The only problem i've had is the hose fatiguing and cracking 3 times in 4 years.  It's because it turns 90 degrees down when it exits the quick connect fitting.  That 90 degree bend in the gas line, and going up and down with the head fatigues the hose.  So I bought a 90 degree plastic barbed connector and installed and no problem since(a year and a half).

Also, I mill inside, so maybe that's why I haven't had any other problem.  I'm not sure how the o-ring would be more affected being outside though.  It's inside your quick connect.  Have you been running gas with ethanol?  After my first year, I quick using gas with ethanol and have since been buying the good stuff- ethanol free.

[Chuck White]

I haven't ran gas with ethanol since way back when I had the Onan on the mill, never ran ethanol gas in this engine, I've ran 91 octane since the ethanol issue first appeared!

I disconnect and remove my tank every day, so I would think that this would give an O-ring plenty of time to regain it's original shape!

I've been thinking of looking for something like the quick disconnects on a tractor-trailer, only smaller!

These ones with the O-rings just don't seem to hold up!

[Peter Drouin]

Off and on all the time will do it, Did that on my first mill back in 1986, Had trouble then use to put grease on it that did work. With the next 2 mills, I leave the tank on I fill it on the saw.
No problems.   

[LeeB]

X2 on the frequent disconnects. Also allows the o-ring rubber to dry out due to exposure. 

[WV Sawmiller]

   I normally leave mine connected. I do take it off to fill the tank except when returning from a mobile job where I just fill it on the mill. On rare overnight mobile jobs I will remove the tank and fill it the way home or back so mine normally stays connected. I don't let my gas sit that long before use so I still use high octane ethanol containing gas.

[justallan1]

Although I haven't done this....
I'd agree with using hydraulic QD's. Specifically, the Pioneer brand, they don't leak like most brands will after time. They hold up to movement great and can sit for months not being used and then work perfectly when you need them.
One thing that I'd highly recommend along with using QD's is an additional filter system like a goldenrod particulate filter. Large volume QD's invite some big stuff into the system.
Hope that helps a little.

[Chuck White]

Thanks for all the inputs, now to get the time to check and see what's available!

[Tropical Sawyer]

I haven't used disconnects on a sawmill but I have some experience with outboard (boat) motor disconnects. The Mercury and Johnson ones are generally not great, i've had them rust and even had the barb parts snap off in the past. Similar story with the Hondas, just not very strong. 

The Yamaha 6mm plastic quick disconnects are quite beefy and seem pretty good, alot of fisherman around here have some pretty ancient outboards with the originals and I still haven't broken any of mine (yet). Never seen them leak either.

I would suggest having a look at the stainless steel Nissan outboard disconnects. They seem really strong and I haven't had mine leak. Just google "nissan outboard fuel disconnect" to see what I mean. The other benefit with those is that i believe they should be easily to fit to any tank if you buy the male part.

Quick question, why can't you just replace the o-rings instead?

[petefrom bearswamp]

I disconnect remove and refill about every 2 days (Diesel)
11 years no with no issues.
I too am under cover.

[Dave Shepard]

One of the diesel lines on my Super uses a similar connector to the Nissan. The other is a push and twist like the gas Mizers use. No trouble in over ten years.

[Chuck White]

I found a Wood-Mizer male &female ends in my parts box, and installed and used them today with no issues!

I did same as Peter did, just applied a thin coat of all-purpose grease before putting them together

Thanks again for all the suggestions!

Off and on all the time will do it, Did that on my first mill back in 1986, Had trouble then use to put grease on it that did work. With the next 2 mills, I leave the tank on I fill it on the saw.
No problems.  

[StimW]

Years ago I had a Ski Boat with 3-6 gallon tanks and I was always disconnecting/switching tanks.
The Evinrude fittings had a little fat o-ring and I kept a half dozen spares and would change them with a paperclip with the end bent to a 90* regularly.
Kept spares on the paperclip!