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linseed oil as end seal????

Started by charles mann, September 16, 2018, 09:18:39 PM

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charles mann

 any poor side effects of using boiled linseed oil and wax as an end seal? 

Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

btulloh

Seems like it would work with the right mixture.  Not sure it would save money but it could fill up some spare time.  :)
HM126

teakwood

why the oil?

i know a big sawmill here that uses melted wax to endseal the lumber
National Stihl Timbersports Champion Costa Rica 2018

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

The oil will penetrate the end grain and discolor the end of lighter colored woods.  So even though the end might be check free, because the wax slows the drying, significant end trim will be needed to remove discolored and oily wood.  If not end trimmed to remove all the oil, then the oil will interfere with gluing and water-based finishes.

A product like AnchorSeal does evaporate whenever the kiln goes over 130 F, so there is no carry-over into the dry product.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

IMERC

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on September 23, 2018, 07:29:38 AMThe oil will penetrate the end grain and discolor the end of lighter colored woods.


I've heard of used motor oil being used as an end grain sealer... this strikes me as an all around really dumber idea...
what is your take?
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

PA_Walnut

Quote from: IMERC on September 23, 2018, 08:22:27 AMI've heard of used motor oil being used as an end grain sealer... this strikes me as an all around really dumber idea... what is your take?


Penny wise and pound foolish. :-X
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
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IMERC

Quote from: PA_Walnut on September 23, 2018, 10:48:27 AM
Quote from: IMERC on September 23, 2018, 08:22:27 AMI've heard of used motor oil being used as an end grain sealer... this strikes me as an all around really dumber idea... what is your take?


Penny wise and pound foolish. :-X

thought as much...
wax it is...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish.... Here fishy fishy....

charles mann

Does Anchor/end seal have to be reapplied after a few months? 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

A properly applied (that means thick enough) coating will last a year or more unless heated to over 130 F.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

charles mann

Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Another popular product (95 % of my clients use it instead of other products) that is widely used is AnchorSeal from UC Coatings in Buffalo, NY.  It can be purchased with or without antifreeze.  It can be applied with brush, roller or sprayer.  The wax melts around 130 F.  It comes in various colors.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

PA_Walnut

Quote from: GeneWengert-WoodDoc on September 24, 2018, 08:28:06 PMAnother popular product (95 % of my clients use it instead of other products) that is widely used is AnchorSeal from UC Coatings in Buffalo, NY.  It can be purchased with or without antifreeze.  It can be applied with brush, roller or sprayer.  The wax melts around 130 F.  It comes in various colors.


AnchorSeal is the bomb. Works great, lots of color options, great people to deal with, fast shipping. What's not to love?
I own my own small piece of the world on an 8 acre plot on the side of a mountain with walnut, hickory, ash and spruce.
LT40HD Wide 35HP Diesel
Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber
Kubota M62 Tractor/Backhoe
WoodMizer KD250 Kiln
Northland 800 Kiln

Ljohnsaw

I picked up a pair of 330 gallon IBCs for a friend to use to hold water for when they do open burns.  These were "very dirty" and free.  They had wax chunks in them along with a milky fluid.  Turns out it is concrete sealer for fresh concrete to hold the moisture in so it can cure.  Its a wax emulsion, probably pretty close to Anchorseal.  I had to use a 3 foot extension on my paint mixer chucked up in my drill to re-constitute it.  I now have 44 gallons and no hardwood to use it on :-\  I'll probably use it on the aspen when I get around to cutting that for my flooring.
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Just North-East of Sacramento...

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farmfromkansas

Brought home a couple walnut logs 3 days ago, the ends are still wet.  How long can I wait to seal them?
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

WDH

You have already waited too long.  Best practice is to seal them immediately after felling. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

In general, it is best to seal logs yesterday.  Once checking starts, even if small, it becomes harder to control 100% with proper end sealing.

The coating must retard almost all moisture loss so that the ends do not dry before sawing into lumber.  The coating also must stick to the wood tightly to be effective.  It should be obvious that log ends with sap, dirt, mud, ice or snow have to be cleaned so the end is all wood...that is, it does no good to end coat sap, dirt, mud, ice or snow- -we want to coat the wood!
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

moodnacreek

If you don't want to spend $, try old latex paint and paper. The idea is to keep the moisture in.

jimbarry

Old latex paint as mentioned above. But i was late getting them painted, about a week before I got to painting them.





 

Been sitting a year now, no end checks.



 

Come to learn though that red paint apparently contains a lot of mineral. It would spark when starting each cut. Dulled the blades faster too.



 



jimbarry


WDH

Some species end check way worse than others.  Latex paint, in my experience, has yielded poor results.  Don't skimp if you want quality boards without end splitting and use anchorseal.  There is no instant pudding when it comes to sealing logs.  The right stuff applied immediately after felling is the best way to go.  I have not found a witches brew that works yet. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Some latex paint, especially interior non-gloss, breathes too much.  Anchorseal only costs about $5 per MBF of logs coated.  This is a small cost for quality logs like cherry, walnut, hard maple, oak, etc.  Note that some species have a greater risk of end checks than other species. 

In any case, coating ASAP is critical because coating prevents checks but does have much effect on slowing existing checks.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

farmfromkansas

Do the log end sealers adhere to the log ends when they are saturated with water?  When I brought the walnut logs home, water seemed to be pouring out.  Figured the end would have to dry a bit before anything would stick.  Certainly latex paint would have had problems.
Most everything I enjoy doing turns out to be work

GeneWengert-WoodDoc

Because Anchorseal is in water, it will stick to a wet end, but water pressure from the inside, often from bacterial infected wood, can blow the coating off.  I suggest coating as soon as possible and then repairing any coating that comes off.  With an valuable species like walnut, you can afford the cost of a good end sealer, like Anchorseal, and afford giving the ends a second coat.  Be careful however in freezing temperatures, as the exuded water can freeze and the Anchorseal will coat the ice but not the wood.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Brad_bb

This discussion has come up a lot.  Anchorseal is not expensive when factored into the cost/board foot.  Nothing works as well.  It applies very smoothly as a water based wax formula, and dries rather quickly leaving a good wax coating.  Just get Anchorseal and stop being penny wise and pound foolish.  You'll lose more in wood defects from not using Anchorseal than you'd ever save trying to use something else. I think Anchorseal comes in as little as a quart, but I couldn't ever see getting it in that small of a quantity.  I buy it 5 gallons at a time.  

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

nybhh

Like everyone else,  I have used Anchorseal(2) almost exclusively and like it a lot.

HOWEVER, I ran out recently and tapped into some leftover end sealant I had from an ipe deck I built a few years ago.  The lumber supplier included a quart with my order and I had just enough lefover to coat the ends of a couple of logs.  

Anyway, the stuff went on much thicker than Anchorseal and although it is too soon to tell if it works better, I think I prefer it and a single coat "feels" about like a double coat of anchorsel.   It cost about the same for a 5-gallon pail and I have NO affiliation with this company although their deck oil is great too.

https://www.deckwise.com/ipe-seal-end-grain-sealant.html
Woodmizer LT15, Kubota L3800, Stihl MS261 & 40 acres of ticks trees.

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