Pump for blade lube spray.

[Joe Hillmann]

I am building a mill and had planned to use a windshield washer pump to spray the lube onto the top and bottom of the blade.  The problem I ran into is the pump allows water to flow past it when it isn't running and after the first time using it to spray lube on the blade the water continue to flow until the lube tank is empty because it is being siphoned out. 

At the moment I am thinking my options are to put a shut off valve in the line which I don't really want to do because it adds and extra step in the process. 

My other option is to poke a small hole in the tubing to allow air into it to stop the siphon.  If I do that then water will also spray out of the hole which I could maybe aim onto the inside of the blade above the drive wheels.

Does anyone have any other suggestions?

[york]

Hi,take a look at Cooks super drip system.....

http://store.cookssaw.com/sawmill-parts/misc.-parts/super-drip-system.html

[Bill Gaiche]

Try a solenoide valve. It opens when when the pump starts and stops when you shut off pump. bg

[Joe Hillmann]

Try a solenoide valve. It opens when when the pump starts and stops when you shut off pump. bg

That looks like it should do the job.  I have never seen a solenoid valve before so I would have never thought of using one.  Thanks.

[Ga Mtn Man]

Here's one I used:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-4-NPT-Electric-Solenoid-Valve-12-Volt-DC-12VDC-N-C-RO-Air-Water-BBTF-/290723310425?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43b075ab59

[hackberry jake]

You could probably use your windshield washer pump with an inline check valve rated for a pound or two of pressure. The check valve would close as soon as the pump stopped running. I don't know if such check valves exist, but here is another solenoid valve
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Water-Pumps/Water-Valves/Shut-Off-Valves/12-VDC-SOLENOID-VALVE-NC-3-16-BARBS-20-1623.axd

[Magicman]

Mine uses an RV water supply pump with an adjustable timer that controls the squirt interval.

[Joe Hillmann]

You could probably use your windshield washer pump with an inline check valve rated for a pound or two of pressure. The check valve would close as soon as the pump stopped running. I don't know if such check valves exist, but here is another solenoid valve
http://www.surpluscenter.com/Water-Pumps/Water-Valves/Shut-Off-Valves/12-VDC-SOLENOID-VALVE-NC-3-16-BARBS-20-1623.axd

I had a similar idea but I couldn't find any check valves that were small enough in size or low enough in pressure to use.

[kelLOGg]

I am building a mill and had planned to use a windshield washer pump to spray the lube onto the top and bottom of the blade. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I think you are wise to lube the top and bottom of the blade. Some say they never get buildup on the bottom and I don't question it, but I can't understand why. Since you are building a mill you are probably skilled at welding so I am passing on the link to my top/bottom oiler. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58022.msg843717.html#msg843717

Concerning solenoids: I would like to add one to my gravity feed drip that actuates when the sawhead is moving forward but I haven't figured that out yet. Even though the drip is very low flow I have forgotten to turn it (diesel) off at the end of the day. >:( >:( >:(
Bob

[hackberry jake]

I just have a drip system that I usually only engauge once the band exits the log. I clean off the band between cuts. I don't know why sawdust doesn't build up on the bottom of the band, but it doesn't. I figure it is because the bandwheels press the wet sawdust onto the band.

[Joe Hillmann]

I am building a mill and had planned to use a windshield washer pump to spray the lube onto the top and bottom of the blade. Does anyone have any other suggestions?

I think you are wise to lube the top and bottom of the blade. Some say they never get buildup on the bottom and I don't question it, but I can't understand why. Since you are building a mill you are probably skilled at welding so I am passing on the link to my top/bottom oiler. https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php/topic,58022.msg843717.html#msg843717

Concerning solenoids: I would like to add one to my gravity feed drip that actuates when the sawhead is moving forward but I haven't figured that out yet. Even though the drip is very low flow I have forgotten to turn it (diesel) off at the end of the day. >:( >:( >:(
Bob

I like that set up.  My plan is to use sandwich type blade guides with holes drilled in the center of them.  I want to then connect my lube system up to the blade guides.

[coastlogger]

On the blade buildup thing I recently helped a friend get his Norwood LM2000 set up. Pitchy douglas fir,told him to use diesel. He cut quite a few logs,never did use diesel,just water, where I know I would have had to use diesel to keep buildup off the band. I think its because the drive wheel belt on a Norwood is also the belt to engine so it goes around a reverse curve at the idler pulley. I think maybe that reverse curve throws off any accumulating crap on the belt so it is clean when it gets back to the band.I was impressed.

[kelLOGg]

I don't know why sawdust doesn't build up on the bottom of the band, but it doesn't. I figure it is because the bandwheels press the wet sawdust onto the band.

That's a very compelling explanation.

However, when I had a topside-only oiler I got bottom buildup from old highly pitched pine beams. Maybe that was the only time I got it but the results were disasterous and embarassing. (I refunded part of the customer's fee). I was determined it would never happen again because of rosin buildup and made the double sided oiler. It has not since been tested on similarly pitched pine, but I am soon to get a second chance. More on that later.
Bob

[slider]

Why not just get your check valve from woodmizer.My lt70 has 2.

[DbltreeBelgians]

Joe,
I had the exact same issue when I installed the windshield washer tank and pump on my mill. I tried many different things and they all failed until I installed an agricultural sprayer check valve. It is a strainer and spring loaded check all in one and that solved the problem. You should be able to find the check valve at any ag supply store like TSC or Rural King. You'll need to get a holder and barbed fitting for the size line you are using and mount it down stream of the pump. I use a momentary on push button switch to activate the pump and it will flood the felt pads if I want it too. It's very easy to control the flow. One other way to try is to have the pump and tank lower than your applicator which could be tough to do unless mounted outside the frame rails.
Also, I only run a pinesol/water mix thru this type set up as I'm sure the pump wouldn't care for the diesel fuel/oil mix. I have another tank that is gravity fed to my felt pads and a small ¼ turn ball valve that I just crack open when I use the diesel mix. I prefer this set up the most as I never have any build up on the blade. I'll try to add a pic of the check valve and the box it came in along with the part number.

Brent


 

[barbender]

My LT40 Super doesn't have the Lubemizer. It just has a solenoid valve that only opens when my forward drive is in gear. It cuts water use down I'd say by about 80% because it only runs when you are cutting. They aren't cheap, I think $75-$100 if I remember right. You might find a different source cheaper.