Slab no not wood, concrete

[nopoint]

Finally broke down and poured a slab under my sawmill. As soon as the slab cures I will be bolting down the mill and removing the wheels. Mills an lt40 with air operated log handling that makes it pretty much impossible to move. My thinking is that this will make it easier to clean under the mill etc. Total cost almost $1000 actually probably over a $1000 when you factor in rebar. Wish I could justify doing the whole building but that probably wont happen. Do most people with permanent or semi permanent setups have their mills set up on concrete? Just hope it was a good use of funds. Sorry no pictures but not too hard to visualize a 10x30 slab with a 6' apron into the shed. Maybe a picture when I get the mill back in before it's covered with sawdust. Hope it was a good investment.

[Busysawyer]

I have mine bolted to concrete with the axle removed. I would add a set of stabilizers to make up for the lack of tires contacting the ground. My mill moves all over the place when loading logs. I have been meaning to order a set of jacks but I keep putting it off or forgetting about it.

[tmbrcruiser]

My mill is electric and I never intended to move it around, so it is bolted down. Just a thought for you. When I bolted down I cut some thick belting to fit under the legs and ran the anchor bolts through the belting to provide a little give when logs get bumped around on the mill. May not make a bit of difference but I though it was a good idea.

[Banjo picker]

Mine is set up on concrete.  I don't move it, but I could.  I did not bolt it down.  Instead I drilled eight holes with a 7/8" bit, three inches deep into the concrete....two on each side and two on each end of the mill an put a 6 inch piece of 3/4 slick rod in each hole.  If I need to move it, all I have to do is pull the slick rod out of the holes and hook it up and go.  It cant move side to side or end to end.  Banjo

[Satamax]

Nopoint, did you get somebody to pour it for you? Here pouring it myself, i could do it for 150$ for 100sqft approximately, that's plastic, rebar and concrete. Pouring 5 or 6 " thick. I rarely do it tho. I usually get a friend to do it, and do roof work for him in exchange. 

[Dave Shepard]

My LT40 with BX24 is on a slab. I have the correct legs for stationary use. If you remove the axle, or even the tires, you need to anchor the mill, as it could tip over without them. Much easier to clean up around now.

There is a slab under there somewhere. 

[firefighter ontheside]

Originally I intended to build a log deck out of treated wood, but soon realized that it would be easier to pour a concrete slab.  Mine is sitting on a 10 x 18 slabpoured underneath a 26x18 carport.  It is not bolted down, but I should.  My LT15 slides around too easily on the concrete.

[nopoint]

Yes I plan to anchor it down. Good idea on the rubber spacers under the pad. Yes I poured it myself, well not really myself as I had to get some help screeding of the wet mud. I'm not much of a concrete guy but pour a few slabs every year typically try to avoid it. Just too hard to find help. Did a few easy slabs this summer and one partial basement floor that wasn't so fun. Jacked up and put a basement under part of a guys house this summer. We couldn't get anyone to do the concrete and block job that fit our schedule so ended up doing it. Much rather be sawing lumber. Thanks for the tips

[opticsguy]

My Timber King 1220 is on asphalt.  Mounted on treated 2x12's pads. The only problem with my set up is the rails are a bit low, making clean up a bit difficult. Next summer I plan to relocate my mill, only about 4 feet further from my building and will add an additional 1.5" thickness to the treated pads for easier clean up.

My building has horizontal siding which makes leveling a log on my mill very easy.  I simply step back and compare the slant of the log to the siding and make an adjustment if necessary.  All manual mill, a great machine but at almost 70 years, wishing for some hydraulics to turn those big logs. . . . . . . 

[Percy]

 

 I did about exactly the same as you a few years back..10X35 foot slab. I elevated the mill just under 5 feet. Gravity is your friend.... :D

[OffGrid973]

LT-10 and rails sit right on the pad...one benefit to having to still use the arms to push the mill

Pouring pad is something I should have done once I realized I was serious about it

[nopoint]

Percy, 
I would like to learn more about your setup. Especially the height. I'm 5'6" tall that makes my chin about level with your bedrails? Maybe I'm missing something here. Do you have green chain and etc setup that needs the height?

[PAmizerman]

nopoint
Here is Percys current setup. I believe?Pretty sweet
Sawmill Contraptions - YouTube