Sharpening Advice

[Percy]

I need some instruction for the sharpening of the carbide bands. I have 6 to sharpen and recieved my CBN wheel to do the job today. Having never sharpened these blades before I would really appreciate any tips and advice there is available to make sure I have a reasonable chance at getting it right on the first shot.

Any one with experience on these blades please post your tips and instruction for me please. Thankyou    

I could be mistaken on this so take it for what its worth...heh... I believe the cbn wheels will do stellite tooth blades as I have done so with great results. The carbide toothed blades that WM sells needs a "special diamond wheel". I have a few carbide ones that Im scared to put on my cbn equipped sharpener as Im scared it will wreck the wheel....

Yes Percy you are correct on the requirement of a diamond wheel.
Shawn had sent me the CBN wheel for doing the for the regular 7*/39* turbo blades and then sent me an email to let me know NOT to use it and that he would ship me a the correct wheel as soon as he had one in. I got the right one yesterday and the other one goes back today. Now I just need the instructions on how to use correctly.
I was kinda hoping maybe marty would weigh in on the advice part.
How is life up in the beautiful northern interior? I kinda think I may have stopped at your place when I was up that way a couple of years ago but not sure.  

Life up here is great. Weather is kinda cold....not as bad as you guys but still nipply. 
Im still waiting for my molder....since april 14.   Poor Gary and Shaun cant release it till it gets re wired....   >:( 

[Bandmill Bandit]

I sharpened 6 Carbide blades today. What a pleasure! I don't think it took 10 minutes per blade. 

Next week will test the sharpening and give more indication of blade life expectancy. 

IF I get 3 cycles per blade @ 6MBF per cycle that will be a minimum 60+% reduction in blade cost and an 80% reduction in sharpening time. 

It is looking like a 250% to 300% BF increase per sharp cycle. That may be optimistic but that is where the number seem to be pointing right now.   

[Stephen1]

I sharpened 6 Carbide blades today. What a pleasure! I don't think it took 10 minutes per blade.

Next week will test the sharpening and give more indication of blade life expectancy.

IF I get 3 cycles per blade @ 6MBF per cycle that will be a minimum 60+% reduction in blade cost and an 80% reduction in sharpening time.

It is looking like a 250% to 300% BF increase per sharp cycle. That may be optimistic but that is where the number seem to be pointing right now.  

did you just sharpen? do you have to set these blades also?

[Percy]

 
It is looking like a 250% to 300% BF increase per sharp cycle. That may be optimistic but that is where the number seem to be pointing right now.  

I dont think you are off the mark at all. When I use them carbides for resawing(clean lumber), I get 18-20,000 bdft before I notice anything resembling a dull blade.

[Bandmill Bandit]

Hi Stephen 
Nope no setting required!

I LIKE your assessment too Percy! Based on your comment I am going to push them further. 

The ones I sharpened came off at the end of a day or the completion of a job and they were STILL cutting better then a new Bimetal blade. May be there is 10MBF in one sharp cycle on these blades. 

[Pabene]

I have a drag sharpener and a single point setter. I am convinced the best is to do the set before sharpening. If you are able to give the blades a set accuracy within 0.001", it will cut without scratches on the boards. If you are going to take to heavy cut in your sharpener (or you have a bad undressed wheel) you will have a lot of burr. I think it is good to deburr the blade. If you are going to use a blade with burr on it, I agree the burr will leave the teeth in the kerf and the burr is hardened steel chips. The mix of steel chips and saw dust in the kerf will now dull the blade in the first cut.

[Chuck White]

I agree with the first part of your post, but disagree with the rest of it!

I have been setting my blades first, then sharpening for years now and have completely ignored the burr!

Some of the burr will be rubbed off while cutting, but some of it is still there when the blade is ready to be sharpened again!

I set my blades in a margin between .021 & .024 inches and have no issues, and no marks on the lumber being cut!

[terrifictimbersllc]

I sharpen, then set (or just check the set-if the blade doesnt need setting it doesn't get more set as it goes around), and ignore the burr.  

Times I have measured how much burr there is I concluded it wasn't more than about .001 and this is within the margin of setting anyway, no point thinking about it. .