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New teeth

Started by dustyjay, February 05, 2014, 03:24:53 PM

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Jeff

Quote from: bandmiller2 on February 06, 2014, 08:41:45 PM
Jeff, was that you in the video.?? Reason I ask is the swedge was hit twice was it once with the curved pocket and once with the straight pocket or boath hits straight. For those  that have never seen a swedge  there are two pockets one is curved to push metal to the edges the other straight to make the edge straight. Frank C.

Yup, thats me.  I don't know if my method would be sanctioned as the apprved method, but it worked very well for me. I know Ron doesn't. :D    I used only the curved side. What you cannot see in the video, is that I am moving the swage from one side of the tooth to the other between hammer blows. I did one side of the tooth, then the other. There is a lot going on there that you don't really fathom until you do it. The swage has to be held a certain way. so the bit contacts the tool correctly. The hammer blows need to be very consistent to make sure both sides of the tooth are the same. I did it this way because I could get the tooth width with very easy hammer blows.  I'd follow up simply by sharpening. Occasionally I'd have to side dress, but not often. It takes practice to get it right. There are several topics on here on the subject, in fact Frank has asked me this before. ;) :)

From an old Post:

I have 2 swags. One I will take with me when I leave because its an extention of my hand ;D. The other one, (the one with blue paint on it) should be thrown in a lake.





Here's the difference. A good swage handle has 6 sides, it fits your hand and does not twist when struck.



The 4 sided fits ackwardly in your hand and will twist when struck.


The Secret of swaging a saw is to do everything exactly the same on each tooth. Hold the swage the same each time and strike it the same. If you look at the tools above you will see which I use by the wear. I only use the curved side. I hit once for one corner, slide the tool sideways on the tooth and strike again for the opposite corner.

The Tooth may start out looking like this:



The resulting swaged and ready to be sharpened tooth looks like this:

Just call me the midget doctor.
Forestry Forum Founder and Chief Cook and Bottle Washer.

Commercial circle sawmill sawyer in a past life for 25yrs.
Ezekiel 22:30

Ron Wenrich

You're right, it wouldn't be my approved method.   :D

Your tooth in the first picture has a corner that has broken or worn off.  I wouldn't be able to get away with too many of those without it pulling my saw, especially in oak.  I was running 700 RPM, and the saws are not very forgiving at those speeds. 

Sawpaw I believe is gone.  It was an idea that never caught on.  I believe it had to do with the expense.  Think about how you would use them.  Whenever you change shanks, you should have your saw hammered.  The carbide would only last so long and then the shanks would have to be pulled so they could have carbide put back on.  That means every time you needed new teeth, your saw should be hammered.  I always got 1-2 MMbf from a hammering.  I know some guys who got more. 
Never under estimate the power of stupid people in large groups.

bandmiller2

Sorry about the repeat Jeff but I forget a lot now, have to keep looking at my name tag. good info for the new guys. Frank C.
A man armed with common sense is packing a big piece

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