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wood land pro bars anyone using them

Started by plasticweld, November 11, 2013, 07:02:20 PM

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plasticweld

Baileys sent me a flier advertising the woodland pro bar for $23 for a 20 inch bar and $27 for a 24.. I need bars and have tried a bunch lately only being happy with the last Carlton Bars because the tips seem to last longer.. Any input would be appreciated.. I did not want to be the first to try

CCC4

IDK, maybe the old saying, "You get what you pay for" comes into play here. I'm not being rude, I'm just thinking that less than 1/2 price has got to mean something.

cutter88

I have never used the bars bout bought a 10 pack of there chains and gave half them away found them very cheep and junky
Romans 10 vs 9 
650G lgp Deere , 640D deere, 644B deere loader, 247B cat, 4290 spit fire , home made fire wood processor, 2008 dodge diesel  and a bunch of huskys and jonsereds (IN MEMORY OF BARRY ROGERSON)

OneWithWood

I have a 60" Woodland Pro bar that I use for slabbing. No complaints.
One With Wood
LT40HDG25, Woodmizer DH4000 Kiln

Ed_K

I've used the 16" bars, their ok unless your girdling trees then they don't hold up to long. My 346 husky has one on now with 400hrs on it. Chains file real easy  :( .
Ed K

ABTS

When I still worked my tree company I used woodland pro chain which is carlton chain which is made by Oregon. I had real good luck with it . I made my own loops never had one break on me . The only reason I did not buy woodland pro bars was they only had the pro version which was twice the price of Oregon. The bars were made by cannon out of Canada BC I think. Really good bars but not cheap. the consumer version I do not know were they are from. I don't know if all that helps but that is my experience with woodland pro . I would trust them.

plasticweld

thanks for the info ABTS, I was not interested in using the chain just the bars. I cant seem to keep tips on any bar except the Carlton bars with the 6 rivets. For any of my other bars the cost of a replacement tip is about 17 dollars now and they  are not last more than a few weeks, we cut hard wood and bore cut a lot but still they should be lasting longer for what they cost. If the woodland pro bars last 3 to 4 weeks at 24 dollars it is cheaper than an Oregon bar that has to have the tip replaced as often as I do.. I have been pulling my hair out over the stack of bars in the, I supply the bars and chain for my crew and this is not a simple or cheap problem..Bob 

luvmexfood

Just never do the bright idea thing I did one time on an Oregon bar. The roller on the end locked up so I just thought I would drill the rivets out, remove the roller and be good to go. NOT. Was cutting a pretty good size blown down tree here on the farm while I had a D 6 dozer here working. Sucked that chain up into the bar and wedged it the tree. Had the dozer pick up the tree and shake it and still could not get it out. Finally had to get a big splitting wedge and drive in right above it to get enough give to get the saw out.

Lesson learned.
Give me a new saw chain and I can find you a rock in a heartbeat.

CX3

I'm with you on bars not lasting like they should. I buy way too many bars....they simply won't last. I like oregon pro bars but they are $55 20" 

Too expensive
John 3:16
You Better Believe It!

North River Energy

1. Would a solid tip bar be more suitable for extensive bore cutting?
2.  Are those readily available, or have they fallen out of favor?

Philbert

I purchased one of their newer narrow kerf bars recently.  Have not used it yet, but it feels like a lighter duty item  Should work for my casual use, but not in the same class as better, heavier bars.

Can't answer the bore cutting question for you, but I thought that the whole point of replaceable nose bars was exactly for that - replace the nose only when the sprocket dies instead of the whole bar?

Philbert

barbender

I have had bad luck with the Oregon narrow kerf bars, the tips don't last and they aren't replaceable. I put a Carlton bar on that saw, narrow kerf as well, and it was worse. I got the bar pinched once and that was the end of the tip. The Carlton chain seems pretty soft, too. I have a Windsor 24" bar on my bigger saw that has lasted me years, but my saws only get sporadic use. I came up with my username because I discovered the forum right after I got done bending that Windsor bar, it was still new and I got it pinched, I tried to help it out with the skid steer. I was able to straighten it. I'd say go with a Windsor, unfortunately you can't anymore  >:(
Too many irons in the fire

Jamie_C

As with a lot of other things, when it came to bars and chains i always found out that you get what you pay for. Items that are cheap to buy are cheaply made, it is manufactured to fit in a certain price point, not manufactured for quality.

OlympicYJ

Blount Industries owns Carlton and Oregon so I would expect the bars to be equal. They also own Windsor but discontinued that line, well name; as I understand it the Windsor's and Carlton's were the same. Lots of guys here in the NW run the factory Stihl bars if they're runin Stihl. A bit problematic if you have a Husky but it can be overcome. I don't know what gauge your running but if you're running 50 ga then maybe a 58 or 63 ga would hold up better... might be worth a try unless the quality took a dive across the board.

Otherwise a Cannon, Tsumura, or Sugihara might be the way to go. My guess is the cheaper Woodland Pro bars are just re-badged Carlton's or Oregon's except for the spendier ones. Those were Cannons in the past. I don't know how small of Cannon's Baileys had re-badged to Woodland Pro.

Wes

donny hochstetler

I run the best bars you can buy TOTAL they are expensive and there is a reason for them being expensive I talked the guys at the mill into buying one talked to them last week n he told me it has now outlasted at least two oregon bars and he has yet to even file off the burrs so actally these bars are cheap            just my opinion try one once  8) 8)

plasticweld

Who are you buying these from? I know of no one local that stocks them..Bob

Philbert

I thought Total bars and chain were made under contract for Tilton Equipment. Is that correct ?

Philbert

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Philbert

OK - and I just saw them offered on a website.  Maybe if one of the site sponsors offers them, they can pipe up here with some info.

Philbert

keen

The total super bars are rebadged Tsumura. Tsumura also makes a lot of the jonsered bars and some of the laser pro bars. They are a high quality Japanese bar. I have used a lot in the past but can get better deals on the old 5 rivet Windsor bars so that's what I'm using now. I would like to try out the cannon bars but cant justify it for that kind of price.
  I see the woodland pro bars that you are talking about on there site. They say made in Taiwan so im guessing that the quality isn't there. I would dish out the extra money for a tsumura they are a good bar. I don't really care for the Oregon power match if cutting hard wood I seem to only get 2 weeks before the tip blows out.

oldbones

I need a couple of bars.

Does anyone know anything about the Husqvarna laser tips bars?

They are pricier than the Oregon Powermatch, but less than the top-of-the-line bars.

I rarely buy the least expensive stuff because, in my experience, cheap means cheap. But the highest priced item isn't necessarily worth the extra money.

barbender

I'm with you on that, old bones. It seems you come to a point of diminishing returns, paying twice as much as a good quality item for a "premium" one doesn't necessarily mean twice as good.
Too many irons in the fire

Grandedog

     Howdy,
   When I first started reading this thread, I'll have to admit I was confused. Then I looked at Bailey's website and was a little surprised. When Bailey's started private labeling Cannon bars they were called "WoodsmanPRO". They were later changed to "WoodlandPRO" years ago. I developed the Taiwanese bars for Bailey's. These Taiwanese bars are nowhere close to the private labled, or brand named Cannon product. For the amount of money you spend, and the quality of bar you get, the Taiwanese bars are a good deal. Just don't be fooled by the name branding.
Regards
Gregg
Gregg Grande
Left Coast Supplies LLC
1615B South Main Street  Willits, CA 95490
888-995-7307  Ph 707-602-0141                   Fax 707-602-0134  Cell 707-354-3212
E-Mail  gregg@leftcoastsupplies.com   www.leftcoastsupplies.com

coxy

I use the forester bars better then the total     the total bars around here you get may be and I say may be 3-4 days out of a tip       the green forester bar imop is better then the red one   not trying to be a smarty I just cant see spending 65 bucks on a bar then 22bucks on a tip 3-4 days later the forester bars are 30 and I can use them for a month or more if I don't bend it  even if I bought 2 forester bars a week would be cheaper  this is  jmop

loggah

I used to get 6 months to one year out of a Oregon bar on my 372 huskys, in soft or hardwood, 2 of us were hand cutting and yarding between 8 to as many as 13 tractor trailers ,70,00-90-000 bd feet per week including pulp. I dont know how some of you can burn thru bars so quick???? I found if you greased the tips they would blow within a month or so ,including boring  frozen hardwood, if we never greased them they would last many times longer, but you have to make sure your oiler was using a tank of bar and chain oil to a tank of saw gas. The other thing was to use good quality bar and chain oil. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

redprospector

Quote from: loggah on December 26, 2013, 06:48:54 PM
I used to get 6 months to one year out of a Oregon bar on my 372 huskys, in soft or hardwood, 2 of us were hand cutting and yarding between 8 to as many as 13 tractor trailers ,70,00-90-000 bd feet per week including pulp. I dont know how some of you can burn thru bars so quick???? I found if you greased the tips they would blow within a month or so ,including boring  frozen hardwood, if we never greased them they would last many times longer, but you have to make sure your oiler was using a tank of bar and chain oil to a tank of saw gas. The other thing was to use good quality bar and chain oil. Don

I've never got a year out of a bar regardless of the brand. But they did used to last a lot longer than they do now.
I had a few guy's working for me on a lop & scatter project. I had them running MS261's and I couldn't believe how quick even the Stihl bars went to crud. I would grind, level, and close the rails a few times before chunking them.
I think like a lot of other things, the quality of material is sacrificed to cut the cost. Not necessarily to save the consumer anything either.
1996 Timber King B-20 with 14' extension, Morgan Mini Scragg Mill, Fastline Band Scragg Mill (project), 1973 JD 440-b skidder, 2008 Bobcat T-320 with buckets, grapple, auger, Tushogg mulching head, etc., 2006 Fecon FTX-90L with Bull Hog 74SS head, 1994 Vermeer 1250 BC Chipper. A bunch of chainsaws.

loggah

Well, it has been about 6 years since i was logging full time !!! probably quality has gone down since then. Don
Interests: Lombard Log Haulers,Tucker Sno-Cats, Circular Sawmills, Shingle Mills, Maple Syrup Making, Early Construction Equipment, Logging Memorabilia, and Antique Firearms

barbender

I gave up on greasing bar tips too, Don. It seemed to me that every time I remembered to grease a tip it would blow out shortly thereafter. I haven't bought a bar for a while, I have had good luck with Oregon Power Match and Windsor Speed Tip bars but I have never cut full time.
Too many irons in the fire

KyLogger

We are on a tornado blowdown job (still) And bucking all this windfall can be hard on bars, I don't care how good you are. This is the most abusive type of work you can do with a saw! So I saw the 24" WoodlandPro TimberMax bars on sale at Bailey's and figured it was worth a shot. We have used em for 2 weeks now on several saws and they seem to be holding up fine. No premature rail wear etc... For this kinda work they seem to do well. Will my felling saws get these bars?  Probably not.
I only work old iron because I secretly have a love affair with my service truck!

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