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Carb Hi and Low Screws keep vibrating loose.

Started by 05_sprcrw, March 18, 2011, 10:28:40 AM

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05_sprcrw

On that 394xp I just rebuild the carb screws keep vibrating loose after I set them is there anything I can do to keep them in place. The springs are on and still are pushing against the screws with good pressure. Can I use plumbers tape (white thin plastic) to cover the last little bit of the screws to help make a tad tighter fit?

smalldog

I have heard that if you remove the screw limiter caps(on newer saws), that you should put them back on because the screws will loosen? If this is a problem, even with the cap on, wouldn't your setting change until it hits the stop? I'm running a ms460 and ms361 with out the caps and haven't had a problem yet, but will I later?
Hang in there body...just a little further to go.

05_sprcrw

I did have the rubber boot taken off so I could set things easier then once it was set I was going to put it back on. Maybe I need to put it back on and see if it will stop it. 




smalldog

Would the rubber boot keep the carb from vibrating so much? If you rough up the ends of the spring, would it help keep the screw from turning? I don't think the teflon tape idea would work because it is slippery and it is a straight thread vs a tapered pipe thread. For a LAST resort, I might put a VERY small amount (with a toothpick)of purple locktite on the screw. The purple is a removable thread locker for small screws.
Hang in there body...just a little further to go.

05_sprcrw

It might but I don't think the rubber boot should have that big of an effect on the screws backing out. I will try the roughing up the spring and if that doesn't work the purple loctite. I guess last resort would be to just buy a new carb and hope that the holes are just worn out and not something else.

smalldog

If you only put the thread locker on the screw its self, you will limit getting it where you don't want it.(in the carb)
Hang in there body...just a little further to go.

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

05_sprcrw

I would only put thread locker on the last portion so I did not have to worry about it making it into the carb. (in theory)

arojay

440B skidder, JD350 dozer, Husqvarnas from 335 to 394. All spruced up

Smurf

The Loctite (removable) thread locker applied to only the last two threads will work very well . I used this application on numerous old chainsaws and motorcycle and snowmobile carburetors jets over the yrs. Just a drop is required , a little goes a long way . A tooth pick can be used as an applicator .  The rubber boot on the Older Pioneers did secure jet screws from vibrating out . The rubber of course over the yrs will dry out and not secure the screws as well . Scott on the Chainsawer site has replacement components for various saws . On new saws the caps should be replaced once tuning has been achieved.

05_sprcrw

Thank you smurf, I did put that boot back on yesterday and it held its timing it looks like I won't have to do the thread locker just yet but it is good to know that it will work.

Do any of you guys know a good place to pick up a square slotted wrench for the walbro wj 39 carb idle adjustment screw? I have been using needle nose pliers but with the boot on I can not get in there and turn it with them.

Cut4fun

Feebay or do as I do and many other rednecks before me, dremel you a slot in the needle head and then use a screwdriver.

komatsuvarna

I've herd of people putting some RTV silicone over the screws after they were adjusted right. Ive never tried it, but it just might work.

beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

05_sprcrw

Quote from: Cut4fun on March 20, 2011, 02:53:06 PM
Feebay or do as I do and many other rednecks before me, dremel you a slot in the needle head and then use a screwdriver.

I ended up going the feebay route it was a little over $8 after shipping for the correct tool. I figured why not, I am sure it will come in handy.

John Mc

Quote from: 05_sprcrw on March 21, 2011, 07:51:27 AM
I ended up going the feebay route it was a little over $8 after shipping for the correct tool. I figured why not, I am sure it will come in handy.

What did you end up searching on to find the correct screwdriver on eBay?

I may add one to my toolbox. I got a great chainsaw multitool from Baileys. It has just about everything I need for "in the field" work (especially since I don't have the skills for major repairs anyway), but it does not have one of these newfangled screwdrivers. None of my saws have the new screws yet, but I figure it's only a matter of time...

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

05_sprcrw

Since I have a walbro 39 carb it had a flat (like a flat head screw driver) shape to it but thicker. I started looking around and it is called a "double d" carb adjustment tool is what I ended up looking for you can also type in husqvarna carburetor adjustment tool and it should pop up in that search too.

Here is a link to the one I purchased:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170607069940&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT

John Mc

Thanks for the info, 05_sprcrw

I thought the newer Husky saws had a splined screw head (like the one at this link), rather than the "double-D" tool you indicated. I guess I'll have to take a close look when I finally get around to buying a new saw.

John Mc
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

smalldog

John Mc...that looks just like the Poulan carb tool # 530035560 and it cost me $5.11 several years ago.
Hang in there body...just a little further to go.

John Mc

Quote from: smalldog on March 21, 2011, 12:46:18 PM
John Mc...that looks just like the Poulan carb tool # 530035560

I guess that would make sense... doesn't Husqvarna own Poulan?

Some of the other eBay ads for the same tool list Poulan as one of the saws they fit. The one I posted had one of the better pictures of the business end of the tool.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun


John Mc

What a pain in the rear-end! Why can't they just stick with the standard screw driver? Do they really think that's going to stop someone intent on adjusting the mixture?

I heard someone mention that some size or another of plastic/rubber tubing works well on the splined screws... not that I'm likely to have the right size lying around anyway.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Cut4fun

The D was on my Solo. I just cut slots. 

The spline became a pita when doing a bunch over and over with plastic tubing. I broke down and got the spline screwdriver. Saved a lot of time in the end when doing 3-4 poulans in a row.

05_sprcrw

I have now have 3 out of the 4 I am just missing the D set. It sure makes things easier even though like others said you can get by with out it if you want to.

JohnG28

That's the tool I would need for my little Husqvarna 142.  A while back before I realized they couldn't sell this tool I had a dealer recommend using a piece of fuel or impulse line to do the trick if adjustments were needed.
Stihl MS361, 460 & 200T, Jonsered 490, Jonsereds 90, Husky 350 & 142, Homelite XL and Super XL

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