Loading logs part 2

[rvrdivr]

A few months ago I ask the question, How do you load logs without heavy equipment around? The response I got was overwhelming. I want to thank all of those who helped. There were several great ideas but I ended up using DanG's and FL Deadheaders idea. Here's what I came up with.








Here's it in action. Can you believe it....the DanG thing really works!










After I get the log onto the back of the trailor, I take the cable of the pully and pull the log the rest of the way onto the trailer. The pully has a latch which works out well.





Thanks again for all the help.

[Mark M]

Hey that's pretty neat.  8)

I've thought about such a device but haven't seen one in operation. Is there a "stop" or some other device to limit travel of the pulley boom?

[DonE911]

Nice set up...  I'd like one of those to load up my kids when its time go home....   ;D

[rebocardo]

That is slick, I love it!

[oakiemac]

Good job. Looks like that will work real well.

Does that winch drain your battery quickly? What size winch is that?

[rvrdivr]

The boom does have stops. One for the back and one for the front. I did however add a chain on each side to add to the load the boom was under when picking up a big log. I recently got a 34 inch diameter cedar and it took all the winch had, to drag it up. I could see the metal stain as it struggled to lift and drag it's prey up and onto the trailer. Everything held and it worked great.
The winch is a Chicago 8000lb from Harbor Frieght Tools. For only $300. it works pretty well. I loaded 8 pine logs onto the trailor with a single charge on the battery. I bought #4 wire and am going to make a big "jumper cable" to hook to the truck's battery just to keep the other battery charged as I load.
As for kids, I found a cattle prod works great!  :D

[sandmar]

Looks great rvrdvr! Looks like you are getting plenty of logs now too. One question....where did you find the pulley with a latch on the side? That is just what I have been looking for..EVERYWHERE. TIA!

Sandmar

[beenthere]

Called snatch blocks, I believe.

One site (I get their catalog for some reason) is
www.awdirect.com

under towing accessories.

[WeeksvilleWoodWorx]

rvrdivr,

Provided your tow vehicle has a seven wire trailer hook-up, I'd just mount the battery in a battery box on the tounge (sp) with a battery isolator. Battery will be charging whenever connected to vehicle and no bulky wires to deal with.

Brian

[sandmar]

Thanks beenthere. They have lots of stuff that should help on their site. Will order catalog ASAP. Thanks again.
Sandmar

[slowzuki]

I have seen those snatch blocks in the northern toolhttps://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?action=position"> Note:Please read the Forestry Forum's postion on this company catalog for low $$.  I have one that I found on the road in front of my house that looks new.  Only one set of tread marks on it :D

Looks great rvrdvr! Looks like you are getting plenty of logs now too. One question....where did you find the pulley with a latch on the side? That is just what I have been looking for..EVERYWHERE. TIA!

Sandmar

[T_in_SC]

Great job!  Now that you have used it, is there anything that you would do differently if making another.

[rvrdivr]

Sandmar, I looked everywhere for that pully. I found an open face at a marine supply for $175.00! OUCH! I searched and found the one I am using at a antique/junk store and only paid $24.00 for it.

T_in_sc. The only thing I discovered so far is the supports on the boom are probably to low. I loaded an monster cedar the other day and had to trim the limbs close as not to hit the boom supports as I winched it up. It will also inhibit the amount of logs you can get onto the trailer.

Thanks Weeksvillewoodworx I'll look into that.

[Kevin_H.]

man that is slick...I have got to get me a welder...Have you tried to load a second row yet?

[Fla._Deadheader]

  You can actually load 3 layers, IF ya got enough trailer. ;) ;D

[rvrdivr]

Fla.deadheader's right, Three layers. you can load as much as the trailer can hold depending on the winch. The more layers the more the winch strains from the friction. I have to say...I think my winch is a little under powered. It might be worth the extra $ to get a name brand next time.
Other than that it works! What can I say...

Thanks Guy's.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  If ya haven't figgered it out yet, you can slip the cable farther back on the log and help "lift" it further onto the trailer, if you leave the cable IN the snatch block for the second pull.  ;) ;) ;D

[Kevin_H.]

Is that 4" "C" channel? and How tall is your arch?

[Frank_Pender]

One additional thing you fellas might consider doing is having a roller that you can easily install on the end of your trailer to ease the friction issue for the first layer of logs.  A second idea might be to have the arch able to be set up on electric hydraulis to raise and lower depending on the need for space to keep loading to a second or third layer of logs, or have the arch set up to raise manually and have pins to set your height.  I realise that the receivers for the arch would have to be very heavy duty and be able to pivit easily moving back and forth.  Just some thoughts to ease loading.

   I sure like concept you have put together.  My mind is really moving as to how I might devise such a device for the back of my F450 with a 6 x 6 box mounted on the back.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Don'T wanna take over this thread, but, we used 2" Galv Pipe for our loader. The channel does NOT have the structural ability of the pipe. You need extra bracing and that adds weight. The extra bracing also hinders where you can direct the logs as you pull them onto the trailer.

  We have a section of 6" Pipe welded to the end of our trailer, for Frank's idea. You are never lifting the entire log, so, the bracing needs to be creative, but NOT overdone.

[rvrdivr]

Kevin_H, that is 3 inch channel iron and is 5 feet tall. I bought 4 inch channel also but decided to go with the 3. As Fl. Deadheader said, you don't have to over do it because your not lifting the entire log. I think If I ever need to replace it I may go with the pipe. As suggested, a roller or two would be a good idea also. One at the back and one where the trailor starts it's angle down, I geuss they call that the dove tail.
Other than that it doesn't take a lot of effort or very long to load it up. Oh, also It would be nice if the bed was above the wheels. That way I could take the rail off one side when unloading to make it easier and faster.
 
If you notice in the picture of the winch, I have the winch stand bolted to the trailer so I can remove it when I need the trailer for other things. I don't do this for a living, I just needed something for when I come across free logs. I'm glad I had it last week when someone gave me a 34 inch wide cedar. They were going to cut it up and stack it out by the road for the garbage men to come get.  Accually since I finished it, I have gotten 4 trailer loads of pine 1 load of red oak, and the cedar.

[Fla._Deadheader]

  Ya still in St. Augustine ??? Ya still owe us a Knappin class : : ;D :D :D

[Kevin_H.]

rvrdivr,
Thanks for the info, I called my Bro n Law last nite ( Had to make sure I could use his torch and welder) Looks like we may get started on something like this next week.

We have our winch battery wired up to charge off the truck as we are driving down the road, works good, We just welded the battery rack on the tounge.

I also think that the wireless remote for the winch would be a good investment.

[Frank_Pender]

Again for the head board portion of the trailer, ne could place a receiver of pipe to slide the winch system into or out of as needed.   Along with this you would want to put pins through the holding system to prevent the winch from sliding up or down.  You also allow for a number of pin sites incase you wish to raise or lower the height of the winch for operation.   With this you would not have to keep undoing bolts to remove the wich bracketing system.

[MemphisLogger]

We us one of these snatch blocks--the one on the right. It's rated at 16,000 lbs. and cost $50.