I have a drive shaft between the power shift transmission and the tork converter. This past week I got a transmission leak somewhere in the tork converter. I got the tork converter setting on the shop floor and I remover the yoke thinking I could pull the converter out of the bell housing. No such luck anyone have any exsperance getting to the seals ? This is a Clark Model C273.1 173 and serial number 11480ZJ tork converter.
On a Clark converter you must disassemble the coverter to get it out. Remove the ring of bolts around the outside and remove that piece(impelor)
Then remove snap ring and remove stator. On the back side of tc housing will be three bolts evenly spaced around the diameter. Remove these bolts and restart them slightly, genty tap the bolts back in to push the baffle out.
Then the tubine and the baffle can be pulled out together.
Just a update on my skidder, I got the converter out and split apart the alum/backer plate between the converter and internal gears has three 3/8 inch bolts holding it in. And there spacing is more like a Y the one bolt furthist from the other two was stripped the threads were gone in the alum. plate. It looked to me this was where my leak was it has a O ring seal and that little bit of flex it looked to me it was leaking . That backer plate would be pump pressure, so I drilled the casting then retaped the alum backer plate to 5/16. I ordered my seals from Devco and in turn they ordered them from some place in North Carolina. Had one H of a time trying to get the backer plate back into the casting. The back of the tork converter has a gear the goes in the casting to drive other gears so the backer plate and tork converter has to go in at the same time giving you a quarter inch to view the backer plater.Just about ready to stack wood around it and light it off when my wife came down to the shop and I was showing her the problem and with her holding one side level with a screw driver I took a quarter inch square about eight inches long and started taping working my way around and I felt it start and the rest is history got it tapped in and level with the casting.Put the center back into the converter, got the next square 1/8 inch square seal which is a circle that lay's on the inside of the converter and the top of the converter sets on top of that seal and then the ring gear sets on top of that and get's bolted down. Problem the square seal is not long enough ,there is no lip to hold it in place so guess I need a longer square seal that will run the whole circle and fit's perfect. So I called Devco Friday but they must of been closed so Monday I will try to get this problem resolved. At the same time the 208 Timberjack project is moving forward a little at a time. Crazy thing with the Timberjack is you don't even know it's behind you on the trailer where the C7 grapple you know your pulling it.
Always somethin aint it.
Kiko, are you a heavy equipment mechanic or just a guy who has had a lot of troublesome iron? I am consistently impressed with your answers. smiley_thumbsup
Autocar glad you got it, that square seal goes on last piece you put on with all the bolts, careful here , an impact gun can pull those aluminum threads.
Mike, thanks for the compliment. I am a self-employed equipment mechanic. I have been some sort of a mechanic all my life. I believe I was the only kid in ninth grade that could in frame a 453 and set the rack over the weekend. It is a blessing and a curse.
Man, tell me about it. Im tired of gojo showers.
Well I got the converter back in my skidder got both pumps back on and all the hoses hooked back up . I changed one hose because the rubber was coming off and where it was located now was the time for a new hose. Started the engine and had one leak at the filter where I hooked the new hyd. line to. Tomarrow I will put the drive line back in and start putting the sheet iron back on . Be glad to get it done ::). sure not as easy as it use to be when I was a young man.
DDDDDDDDDDone ! 8) 8) 8) 8)
Feels good doesn't it! smiley_hellow_im_here
Sure dose :D