Makita chain mortiser tips and tricks

[Lennyzx11]

After using my new to me chain mortiser for the first 20 or so holes, I've started learning things that make it go easier for me. 
I did see some older threads and some videos posted here and there but those seem more to the basic operation. This thread is more for how to be better, safer, more productive with the thing. 

Please feel free to add links to past threads (I'm not good at that kinda thing). And correct me for dumb ideas.

1. As said over and over. The natural  tendency to pick it up for moving to and from the timber by the two black operating handles should be broken consciously. The trigger located under the handle is perfect to start it by accident. Pick it up by the top handle and bottom crossbar. 
Get in the habit of unplugging it before setting it on and off the timber. Nuff said.

2. The "0" indicator and the front edge of the yellow marker indicate where to align it for initial setup. Add another sharpie mark at the rear of the yellow tab to show where the rear of the chain is cutting. 
But wait... there's more. Add another mark on the frame to show where the opposite end of the chain cuts in position 3 (like another "0" reference from that end). Then add yet another on the frame to show where the front line is (like the yellow tab front edge but opposite end. 
3. By accident I discovered that you can "ratchet" from position 1-3 just by tilting. No holding the left lock needed. Just tilt to the next once raised and locked up with right trigger. This works good to clean out the bottom of a blind mortise. 
Sequence of operation is to drop/cut into position 1,2,3 ratcheting when you raise up to the next. Then return to position one, drop with chain running and sweep sideways through 1,2,3. This cleans the humps in bottom of hole. Then push lever 2 and start all over.
4. Get a step bench to raise yourself up to where the handles are level with your waist when parked. Then as the handles drops below waist level it's easier to pick up and tilt(for some reason you have to be a member of the "he man women haters" club to fight the stiff tilt spring on mine). Or I'm just weak.
 Lowering the timber works too but then it's hard on the back with the lower timber when chiseling, layout, planing etc. Shoving the step bench out of the way is easier.(plus it(the bench) makes a convenient place to set the mortiser off the timber).

I'll try to get better pictures tomorrow as my first set taken today kinda suck.

Now it's your turn.... Please share your knowledge for us beginners to use these mortisers to their potential. With a lot of us working alone, we aren't exposed to the things that you professionals learn or do on a daily basis.
Thanks,
Lenny

[Prizl tha Chizl]

Thanks for starting this thread, Lenny. I'm also new to this tool and will appreciate some of your ideas on my next project. 

I found the depth gauge clumsy and difficult to adjust, so I mostly left it at my standard mortise depth. I then used sharpie to mark my next most common depth, a "half-plunge" for the angled brace mortises. I also took to cutting all brace mortises with the square side of the mortise  to my right so that I could use position three to make that half plunge. On long scarfed beams this meant coming back around to finish ones that I had skipped  from the other side.

I didn't like that I had to manually crank the mortise width setting in order to completely remove the stock from my 2" mortises in white pine with the recommended 18mm chain, but took to counting the number of turns it took to get to the other side, (4 1/2 for me.) I'm considering buying their thickest chain for my next job, what do other folks do about this?

[doc henderson]

i do not have this tool so looked it up.  here it is for the rest of us without one.

Makita USA - Product Details -7104L

[Jim_Rogers]

9 years ago, I made this set up video:
Chain Mortiser Tips - YouTube
as of today it has been viewed over 300,000 times.

But wait there's more.....

Jim Rogers

[Jim_Rogers]

When doing a long mortise, I have found a way to align the chain/bar to the mortise and cut it to an exact same size.
First, you need to understand that the chain cuts down on the right side as standing in the operator's position. The operator's position has been a debate before, but as I consider the operator's position to be where you see me standing in the above video.

I like to cut both ends of my mortise down straight with the downside (right side) of the chain. That makes the end grain smooth and no chip out on that end of the mortise, which can happen with the upside of the chain.
So, after the first end of the mortise is done, using the method shown in the video, I unclamp the machine and turn it around on the timber.
And align it to the other end of the mortise.
To ensure that the chain is aligned with the existing mortise, I pivot the machine to position three or click three as I call it. And then lower it into the open mortise. I turn the crank handle to move the bar forward until it touches the side of the existing mortise thus aligning it to that side.
Then I plunge at position #1 and then rotate to position #2 and #3 if needed and sweep out those after doing one, two and three. 
Pull the forward/reverse handle into reverse and do positions #4, 5, and 6. And of course, sweep those as well.
After that, I crank the handle back to the back side of the mortise. And again, pivot to position #3 and adjust the crank handle until the backside of the chain touches the other side of the existing mortise. This aligns the chain to the back side as well.

I'm sorry as if today, I don't have a video showing how to do this, yet.

Jim Rogers