iDRY Vacuum Kilns

Sponsors:

This Dang Peterson

Started by Qweaver, October 13, 2017, 01:25:29 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Bradm

Odds are the tension is out and will need to be fixed.  MbfVA, could you post a few pictures of your new blades?  A close up of the top and side would be nice.

MbfVA

 Will do as on as possible, by the weekend.   I may be able to add more insight after using the mill tomorrow with some friends.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Qweaver

A little more tip relief and a well sharpened blade has made the horz. cuts some easier but I still have to make 3 passes to get a full 10" cut. My friend Scott suggested that track miss alignment may be a factor in the vert. 2 inch cut problem.  When we finished the big oak today I was finally able to check this and there was a 3/4"  difference  at the mid point of the track.  I've always thought that it needed a mid point cross member for that 24' span.  I'll make one tomorrow.  Pastor Sarah gives me some stern looks when I work on Sunday but this log has got to get done. 
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

dgdrls

Qweaver,

what Peterson are you operating, WPF?
  Have you sawn another log with the same set-up?

the challenges you're still having  with he adjustments you have made
just don't add up to me.   

Are you certain you just didn't get a really tough log?
the track deflection, is that along the length of the beam?

D


Savannahdan

I currently don't have the middle support on the left track for my mill.  That's because I have a couple of large logs blocking proper installation of the support.  When I run into this situation and it is a cutting problem I can just move the end supports inward.  But, for regular use I like having the middle support installed in the system.
Husqvarna 3120XP, Makita DCS7901 Chainsaw, 30" & 56" Granberg Chain Saw Mill, Logosol M8 Farmers Mill

Qweaver

Hi DG  My mill is a wpf 10 and I did saw a 30" Ash recently and a 48" Red Oak last summer and all sawed hard. So the problem is not new.  I'll correct the beam deflection and start on another large oak this AM.  It is a really tough log but the saw should handle that.  The track is dead level on a concrete slab.  The deflection takes the wide roller on the left side from outside to inside limit as it rolls down the rails.  I will fab another cross brace to fix that.  I note that the sawn 2x10x 20' boards are quite a bit more heavy than the chart shows---so it is a dense log.

Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Qweaver

My mill only came with 2 supports/cross braces even tho' I ordered one short extension.  I made up a wood cross brace for the end of these but I will make a metal 2x2 for the center of the long span rails.
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

dgdrls

Quote from: Qweaver on October 29, 2017, 10:07:40 AM
Hi DG  My mill is a wpf 10 and I did saw a 30" Ash recently and a 48" Red Oak last summer and all sawed hard. So the problem is not new.  I'll correct the beam deflection and start on another large oak this AM. It is a really tough log but the saw should handle that.  The track is dead level on a concrete slab.  The deflection takes the wide roller on the left side from outside to inside limit as it rolls down the rails.  I will fab another cross brace to fix that.  I note that the sawn 2x10x 20' boards are quite a bit more heavy than the chart shows---so it is a dense log.

Quinton

How did it go?   

D

Qweaver

The return 2" cut was definitely easier .  But I still have a fundamental problem with the setup.  Now that the log is out of the way  I will make sure all of the frame settings are. right then put a log on and finish testing
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

Grandedog

Quote from: MbfVA on October 25, 2017, 03:48:57 AM
In my limited experience so far, it takes some effort to push wide horizontally, and my mill is ever so slightly going uphill for that.  Pulling back through a 2 inch vertical cut seems like nothing.

That's the hard way.  The easy way is to cut vertically, then come back and push horizontally on the short dimension.  Like I said, I'm still learning.

Something's got to be wrong, unless you've spent too much time pushing through cedar or some other softwoods w/ a bandsaw  smiley_greg_walking_stilts

All I've cut so far is some dry white oak; logs had been sitting around for a long time.  Moving the mill on Friday, more experience coming.

I did a demo of a manual Norwood HD 36 (band saw)on poplar & cedar, and it was pushable with one finger.

No blades available in the US, bad manufacturer, bad manufacturer!  Or bad Left Coast for not ordering enough?
Howdy,
   That was pretty much my fault. We were able to almost cut the price of replacement blades in half compared to what they cost coming from New Zealand. It way overheated the sales, and blew the projections out of the water. We have some blades coming out of production next week. I might be able to have one drop shipped direct if you.
Regards
Gregg
P.S. When your making the several passes on the 10" horizontal cut, do you get a step in the wood on every pass?
Gregg Grande
Left Coast Supplies LLC
1615B South Main Street  Willits, CA 95490
888-995-7307  Ph 707-602-0141                   Fax 707-602-0134  Cell 707-354-3212
E-Mail  gregg@leftcoastsupplies.com   www.leftcoastsupplies.com

MbfVA

 Thanks for the response Greg. I remember something about a new source for blades, may have talked to you when I was in the buying process.

The person who started this thread is the one who needs a blade.

I'm still learning, but I do know the drill about multiple passes.   I am also mindful of seller Barry's advice to do the vertical cut as the deeper dimension and the horizontal cut short dimension where possible.  I am also practicing using wedges to avoid kerf choke, something else Barry showed me.

I think I also remember him telling me that that is best for cutting quartersawn boards, too.  Geometry-wise, that seems to make sense anyway.

I moved the machine to our farm on Friday.  New spot, very thick grassy level ground. The big problem we think we had was that the supports mooshed into the ground as the saw carriage passed each support, particularly in the middle.  The blade then appeared to dig in and then refused to move forward, abruptly without any warning and oddly, without the motor slowing down.  I believe it was due to a squatting of the rails since it seemed to happen near the middle.

I have not been back out to work on correcting that yet, by increasing the weight of the flat pavers underneath each support, to better flatten out the grass.  More to report once I try that.

My seller gave me two new condition blades, either new or freshly retipped, still have the protective green gooey stuff on them.

I still have lots to learn.  I'll try to do a separate post on the experience of moving the machine.  It was an adventure. Don't try it with a Ford truck-- The carriage will not wheel barrel into it like it's supposed to, the lift is too dang high. More on that in a separate post.

Time for dinner.
www.ordinary.com (really)

MbfVA

here are some photos taken inside of an unused by me either retipped or new blade that my seller gave me:

[If you need others, I can do more--I'll keep this blade inside for a while for that eventuality; if the resolution is not high enough, I'll find another way to get you a higher resolution photo or photos]



  

  

  

 
www.ordinary.com (really)

Don P

Judging from the braze quality, scratching on the plate and the polish on the edges of the gullet I'd say that is a retip. Most saw shops dip the tips to protect them.

One more to throw out there, I'm wondering if when that rounded edge on the gullet gets to a point of wear does it stop clearing the kerf and instead begin allowing dust to spill around the blade causing higher feed force, heat, etc. When I was sharpening molder knives one of the sharpening wheel styles we would buy was a gumming wheel normally used for dressing the gullets square. I'm wondering if they need dressing periodically on these saws.

ButchC

Don,  I agree that's a re-tipped blade in the pics. I hadn't thought of that but a rounded gullet would have to  be less efficient at doing it's job.  I have log #25 on the bunks and still on the original blade, been lucky and hit no embedded objects and have clean logs that havent been skidded.  The tips are just about down to the point of needing a retip job, I am going to check the gullets this evening.
Peterson JP swing mill
Morbark chipper
Shop built firewood processor
Case W11B
Many chainsaws, axes, hatchets,mauls,
Antique tractors and engines, machine shop,wife, dog,,,,,that's about it.

Grandedog

     Howdy,
   It's hard to tell from the photos but, one thing that's very important is the Tangential angle. The trailing edge of the tooth has to be narrower than the leading edge.
Regards
Gregg
Gregg Grande
Left Coast Supplies LLC
1615B South Main Street  Willits, CA 95490
888-995-7307  Ph 707-602-0141                   Fax 707-602-0134  Cell 707-354-3212
E-Mail  gregg@leftcoastsupplies.com   www.leftcoastsupplies.com

Bradm

That's a retip.  Judging by how the shoulder has been ground, I'm curious as to how close the current diameter of the blade is compared to a new blade.

As to the rounded corners of the gullet, yep they do get dull and should be gummed out periodically.  I like to do it when replacing tips.

MbfVA

 To wake up this thread with something slightly new, do any of the Peterson owners on here think this Bosch product would work to provide a laser cut line?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-LS010-Miter-Laser-Washer/dp/B004GH6YYO

One thing that comes to mind is that the saw blade on our Petersons is not attached with an center arbor, it has multiple screws/bolts ringing the center.   My machine is at the farm, so I can't go out and look at it immediately.
www.ordinary.com (really)

Ianab

Nothing protrudes from the lower surface of the blade. Reason is that when you are cutting large logs the blade is skimming the top of the log with every cut. If you mounted that on the arbour, as soon as you got 10" into the log it would foul on the log, and you stop.

I have thought a vertical beam mounted on the frame above / in front of the blade would be handy. Set it to line up where the blade is going to track in the vertical cut. This would make that first cut of each horizontal layer easier to set up exactly, accounting for curve / taper etc, because you could see exactly where you are going to cut all the way down the log.

A vertical line would only really be any use for the first opening cuts on top of the log. That's a one off setup for each log, so I don't see any big advantage there.

But the vertical sight down the log I could see being handy, especuially with irregular logs.
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

MbfVA

 You and I do love our irregular logs, don't we, Ian  8)

I had a feeling what sounded like a great idea would get nixed.  I will say that the Bosch site showed a lot of variation in what people thought of it.
www.ordinary.com (really)

MbfVA

 While we're on the subject of Peterson WPF, can anyone recommend a remote pendant type "vertical sizing" switch, up & down, like the one that used to be on the WPF?  I asked why they changed, and was told reliability, but I would rather have one that I can operate easily without having to reach way over to the engine each time.

Vertical sizing (setting the blade height) is rather tricky with this machine, requiring a fair amount of bumping the switch back-and-forth, all the while trying to figure out what's going on with the blade underneath, lining up for that first cut; at least it only has to be done once, but I still have to rock the switch back-and-forth to get in each change in height with any precision.

My hat is off to you Lucas owners; having to operate 2 manual winches to change the ht would drive me nuts.  Using an electric drill  hanging off a very expensive saw mill to change the height on the Turbosaw is another thing entirely.

The OEM switch now in use is a small rubber covered rocker switch mounted requiring a rather fer reach.  It is off in the center, spring loaded to stay that way normally; personal preference would be for a larger switch with a little less of a spring-load, making it easier to operate with an extended hand.   I have to grip the back of the switch and use my thumb.   The winch moves the saw head up when the switch is rocked in one direction, down for the other.  I may just get a length of  properly sized cable and extend it into a small box that I will mount more conveniently.  I'm not sure if there's a relay or contactor involved, so the wire may carry a fair load, but I will check the diagram.

I haven't received a response to my question about adapting after market third-party setworks to the WPF, on another thread.   The dial thing is just not my favorite.
www.ordinary.com (really)

scsmith42

Quote from: MbfVA on December 01, 2017, 05:27:50 PM
To wake up this thread with something slightly new, do any of the Peterson owners on here think this Bosch product would work to provide a laser cut line?

https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-LS010-Miter-Laser-Washer/dp/B004GH6YYO

One thing that comes to mind is that the saw blade on our Petersons is not attached with an center arbor, it has multiple screws/bolts ringing the center.   My machine is at the farm, so I can't go out and look at it immediately.

I had a similar one on a SCMS and the beam is pretty weak.  I don't think that it would work well on a swingblade.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

scsmith42

Quote from: MbfVA on December 02, 2017, 03:41:24 AM
While we're on the subject of Peterson WPF, can anyone recommend a remote pendant type "vertical sizing" switch, up & down, like the one that used to be on the WPF? 

I've had one similar to this on my WPF for 11 years.  No problems

www.mcmaster.com   7161K11
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Qweaver

I am about to go thru the entire setup process on my troublesome WPF getting ready to saw A 40" RED OAK.  Sure hope to get it working well. 
Quinton
So Many Toys...So Little Time  WM LT28 , 15 trailers, Case 450 Dozer, John Deere 110 TLB, Peterson WPF 10",  AIM Grapple, Kubota 2501 :D

scsmith42

Quinton, are you still having problems?  I thought that you got it dialed in last month...
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

NZJake

MbfA, an intirely different thing?

You just pointed out how you have to toggle the switch up and down for accuracy... doesn't a variable, cordless urgonomic drill kind of solve a bunch of problems? Your saying that a drill cheapens up our mills from your perspective but heck throw the hand crank back on and your golden, back to a mill that reflects its value. Pretty sure the drill would go straight back on though, it just makes since.

Anyways we can make an electric option... didn't like the toggling and fixed speed though so you will have to ask us to make specially.

https://youtu.be/euJWyJbx_A4
Wife says I woke up one morning half asleep uttering thin kerf and high production, I think I need a hobby other than milling?

Thank You Sponsors!