putting set into blades

[bandmiller2]

When you set first no burrs, after you sharpen burrs be DanGed the log will remove them. After a nail hit I stop and remove the curl of metal on the face of the tooth with a pocket knife. With the band stopped I take a piece of stickin and run it over the band ,usually I can pick out the offending tooth/teeth and adjust it with an adjustable wrench. Depending on the angle of the tramp hit sometimes it will remove set on one side, that requires removal and sharpening. Frank C.

[Peter Drouin]

Yes TOM that might work. But over here it's all about quality and production.
I don't spend to much time on a 25.00 blade, my cat will bend the tooth back on the blade or break the thing off  :D
I will send the blade through the set and sharping thing and if it doesn't come out of it at the #2 time I step on it  so it will lay flat  :D
Im in for lunch and have a line making blade on now, cut one log and it did not come out of it, it's sharp and cuts flat even on a 4" knot but when I go back out it will be flat and go to the next  blade :D

[Brucer]

I don't debur my blades. I zero out my setter with the burr on.

For me, that would mean zeroing the setter twice on each blade. Hmm ... chance of forgetting = very high (for me). I think I'll pass on this one :D.

[Chuck White]

When I set my blades, I don't get concerned with a burr on the one side, I just get the set adjusted where I want it and do one side, reverse and do the other side!

Works for me!  ;)

[chickenchaser]

The guy I bought my mill from also has an auto sharpener and dual tooth setter. He offered to sell it to me since his new mill required a different setup. I never saw him use the setter until his teaching session. The order I was shown was sharpen + set. Not necessarily told to do it that way, but the way it happened.

On my first go-around sharpening, I was happy with myself. Out of 7 blades, 6 were fair-to-good on the next use.

My next sharpening session consisted of 3 of the above mentioned blades and 4 "new" blades that were removed when moderately dull instead of very dull. I was not nearly as impressed with the results. I think I know the reason now:

Further to Peter's comment, new blades (at least WM blades) are set after they are sharpened so they are not square to the blade. This doesn't seem to cause a problem when you use them straight out of the box. However, you must grind them down until the tops of the teeth are square to the blade across their entire width.

If you don't sharpen them this way, the lowest part of the tooth (on the outside) doesn't get sharpened. This means you have sharp teeth in the centre of the cut, but dull teeth on the top and bottom portions of the cut.

I only made one light pass around the blade - thinking "not as dull to begin with"...and hoping a touch up only would get more blade life.

During this session, I actually wondered if setting first would be better. A few days later I read some info from Suffolk Blades that recommended this. Now, here on FF I see the majority use the set + sharpen method.

Today or Monday will be my next sharpen session. I think I'll try it.

Thanks everyone.

CC

[Peter Drouin]

And I use this


 

I mark the first 20 teeth or so , so when I'm sharping I can see what I'm taking off or not taking off. I use it all the time, and with the cbn wheel it works good

[Nomad]

And I use this


 

I mark the first 20 teeth or so , so when I'm sharping I can see what I'm taking off or not taking off. I use it all the time, and with the cbn wheel it works good

     That is a good idea.  And it'll work just as well with a drag type sharpener, too.

[bedway]

Ive built my own sharpener and setter. This year i cut about 2000 board foot, mostly hardwood. I used 6 bands to cut that volume. Prior to the cutting season starting for me i had two of the bands set and sharpened by a local pro. I set and sharpened the remaining four bands on my new DIY setter and grinder. Of the six, one band broke and it was one of the bands done by the pro. with the full gullet grind. The four i ground on my sharpener only does the face and about a third the way up the tooth back. I understand this was not a clinical study but i found it interesting that they all cut well and the one that broke had the full gullet grind. Any comments?

[JustinW_NZ]

And I use this


 

I mark the first 20 teeth or so , so when I'm sharping I can see what I'm taking off or not taking off. I use it all the time, and with the cbn wheel it works good

I've been using a gold "paint pen" to do the same thing, seems to work well.

What I've noticed is the same thing about getting the cutting edge square but most of the time I can see the 'old' steel that hasn't been ground off yet even without marking and just send it round the sharpener again.

(i'm using a WM CBN wheel as well)

Cheers
Justin

[roghair]

Bedway, If I am right, you will loose your gullet profile after a few sharpenings in that way. Or can you adjust to also touch the deepest part of the gullet?

[bedway]

Im in for lunch roghair but when i go back out ill take a few pics of my set up. If i can still remember how to post pics on here i will add them. To answer your question, yes i can drop the whole profile.