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Blade longevity

Started by logs2lumber, June 18, 2016, 04:55:50 PM

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logs2lumber

Well lets start with the basics. I have a LT40 SH with 51 cat. I use the standard blades from woodmizer and these are new blades. I notice that i use alot of blades during a day of sawing. Recently i was sawin on the road about 1.5 hr away from my home but i had plenty blades sawing only cedar and pine. no nails or rocks clean logs but heck i think i used 3 blades in one day is that normal and i was cuting 5/4 lumber and pine was framing. i also noticed some lumber was getting really wavy i know its rough cut but i like to give the best product. What are some feed backs on yalls blade usage

POSTON WIDEHEAD

You did not mention the degree of the blade you were using.

Personally, I use 4 degree blades ONLY.
I have a debarked also.
My PSI is set around 2800 - 3000

Generally I use 2 blades a day....one in the morning and finish the day with a new one I put on after lunch.
But using 3 blades a day is not really uncommon.
The older I get I wish my body could Re-Gen.

Bruno of NH

I don't get near the blade life as some on the FF do .
I have a manual mill and no debarker but peal bark when I can .
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

logs2lumber

Postonlt40hd

The blades are 10 degree blades  1 1/4    7/8 tooth space  I used the debarker all day just was wondering if that was normal or am i just over reaching

ladylake

   
You should be asking how many bf per blade, I most times change mine every 2 hours 600 to 700 bf cutting hardwood ( cutting straight or not) , I have cut longer cutting clean softwood  and cutting big dried out white oak they only cut straight for 1 hour.  When you see 1 cut that's wavy put a new blade on no matter how long its been on. If you do custom sawing you wont get a good reputation cutting wavy lumber.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Peter Drouin

Wavy lumber is a dull blade. I have the same mill. Some day I am going through 5,6. Blades a day.
A&P saw Mill LLC.
45' of Wood Mizer, cutting since 1987.
License NH softwood grader.

Magicman

You mention Cedar which is probably the most abrasive species that I regularly saw.  I usually saw 5-700 bf per blade.

For whatever reason sawing SYP, I have sawn 2500 bf one day with one blade and then had to use 3-4 the next.  As Poston mentioned, knotty pine will sometimes turn a sharp 10° blade so I keep a stash of 4°.
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

Bruno of NH

I have learned no matter how long the band has been on, if the cut starts to wave change the band or try a differnt degree
Just my 2 cents
Lt 40 wide with 38hp gas and command controls , F350 4x4 dump and lot of contracting tools

petefrom bearswamp

I am using 7 degree 35  and 7 degree turbo as well as some 10 degree blades that i redid at 7 degrees on my old drag sharpener.
They all work better for me in Hemlock with The best being the turbo, then the older 7 degree the my home made ones.
I also have a few .055 blades done by re sharp but am not in love with them.
My blade life as regards time is about 3- 4 hrs in fairly clean stuff using the debarker.
Kubota 8540 tractor, FEL bucket and forks, Farmi winch
Kubota 900 RTV
Polaris 570 Sportsman ATV
3 Huskies 1 gas Echo 1 cordless Echo vintage Homelite super xl12
57 acres of woodland

Chuck White

I usually go through 2 bands in a day, somewhere in between averaging 800-1,000 bf per band.

I have always used the .045, 10° Double-Hard bands and have had good luck with them.

I don't use a different hook angle very often, but I do have 2 in my blade box that I have sharpened to 8°, they seem to do hardwoods a little easier and smoother.

Mostly, I saw Hemlock and White Pine with a little hardwood thrown in, here and there.
~Chuck~  Cooks Cat Claw sharpener and single tooth setter.  2018 Chevy Silverado and 2021 Subaru Ascent.
With basic mechanical skills and the ability to read you can maintain a Woodmizer  LT40!

ncsawyer

I agree with the others that have said that 3 blades per day is not all that excessive.  I cut mostly SYP, and just like MM, I have cut all on one blade.  Then there maybe days where I will use 3 to 4 blades in very similar sawing conditions.  I use 4 degree blades on everything. 

It will also make a difference on the size logs you are cutting.  A 8 inch second cut (not butt cut) is more forgiving than a 28 inch butt cut log.  In my experience, a blade that is getting dull is more likely to cut a smaller log than a larger log with good results,
2015 Wood-Mizer LT40DD35
Woodmaster 718 planer
Ford 445 Skip Loader

Magicman

Technically speaking the closer you get to perpendicular the more scrubbing and less actually slicing the blade is doing.  Not a big deal, but my blade life is always a bit less with 4° blades. 
Knothole Sawmill, LLC     '98 Wood-Mizer LT40SuperHydraulic   WM Million BF Club Member   WM Pro Sawyer Network

It's Weird being the Same Age as Old People

Never allow your "need" to make money to exceed your "desire" to provide quality service.....The Magicman

logs2lumber

 Thanks to all for the input. I think i am going to try a different degree and see if its any better. magic i thought the same about the cedar being abrasive but in all i guess for 2 days sawing now i look back i really didnt use alot. Even though i damaged one myself the sqaure arm somehow ran out in front of me like a deer  :D. i only caught the top of it  ;D.

Brad_bb

I've experienced some wavy cuts in very hard wood (Osage, Ash) with 7 degree blades.  Talking to woodmizer rep on the phone I mentioned it and he suggested 1. have you checked your drive belt tension?  Nope.  2. I have an LT15 with 19hp Kohler.  He suggested that the higher number degree blades take more HP to push.  He suggested 4 degree for the smaller mills.  I thought I didn't have any sharp 4 degree left, but we sorted though the dull bands and found 2 new 4 degree.  Put one on and it sawed the osage flat.  I haven't checked drive belt tension yet though.  It makes sense, if a higher degree blade is more aggressive and takes a bigger bite, you'd need more power to push it through.  Boxed up and sent my 4 degrees for resharp.

By the way, if you're using woodmizer bands, get the checking too they have to check what degree a band is.  I never could tell visually, but it's easy with the tool and it's not expensive.
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Kbeitz

Today for the very first time I used a new blade.
I have been using junkyard blades from day one.
I was very disappointed. I wanted to order some 7 degree and some 4 degree blades.
I talked to Kasco where I got my blades from and they thought I would only need 7 degrees.
My first log was my first locust tree I ever cut. I started out with a junkyard blade and made
one cut and my blade broke. The first cut was flat with no problems.
So I replaced the broken blade and put on one of my new 7 degree blades. It was awful.
Waves like you never seen. So I shut down the mill and put on new drive belts.
It still sawed awful. Then I loaded a poplar and tried sawing that. It did OK but I
was wishing I had some more junkyard blades. So I think my mill needs 4 degree blades.
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

5quarter

Kbeitz...I'm assuming Black Locust? I don't know any one who enjoys sawing black locust. hard on blades; hard on saw; hard on back. :-\  4° will cut straighter and with less chatter but a little slower. but the 7° should  have done better than what you describe. Personally, I think you're tension was too low. WM bands in general run best at the recommended tension (+/- 2400 psi) or higher. Also, They are designed to saw fast so try increasing your feed speed. By contrast, Suffolk Machinery recommends their blades be run at a much lower tension to get optimal performance. Although blades all look pretty much the same, they are not. You may have to adjust your setup a little,  but once you have it dialed in, you'll be golden. ;) :)
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

Kbeitz

Tension was dead on. Unless my indicators off.



 



Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

5quarter

I'm sure the indicator's fine. So if your blade is level to the bunks, your belts aren't slipping and the set and sharp are good on the band, then the blade is likely heating up in the cut. A slow feed rate can sometimes cause sawdust to pack the gullet and you get excessive spillage in the cut, which will cause the blade to heat up and momentarily lose tension while in the cut. If you have the ponies, try increasing your feed speed. really push it. Hopefully that will fix the trouble.
   If it doesn't, double check that your guides are not taking a little set out of the inside teeth. Also, Black locust has some thick nasty bark that can trap alot of sand, rock and grit. The 7/39 has a steep back angle and does not play well with gritty logs.
What is this leisure time of which you speak?
Blue Harbor Refinishing

OlJarhead

If I have a sharp band I get wavy cuts I check drive belt tension.  A loose drivebelt will cause wavy cuts too
2016 LT40HD26 and Mahindra 5010 W/FEL WM Hundred Thousand BF Club Member

Kbeitz

Quote from: OlJarhead on June 20, 2016, 01:43:44 PM
If I have a sharp band I get wavy cuts I check drive belt tension.  A loose drivebelt will cause wavy cuts too

Thats the first thing i did. I even put on new ones...
Collector and builder of many things.
Love machine shop work
and Wood work shop work
And now a saw mill work

JB Griffin

The only black locust I ever cut was cut 20-30 years ago and laid on the ground for that long. I used 8° Super Sharps and cut it DEAD FLAT with no trouble and quarter sawed it to boot. That was with my lt40 hyd with the 33hp Kubota.
2000 LT40hyd remote 33hp Kubota with 6gpm hyd unit, 150 Prentice, WM bms250, Suffolk dual tooth setter

Over 3.5million bdft sawn with a Baker Dominator.

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