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4-53 shuttering and losing power?

Started by logman81, November 04, 2012, 02:26:14 PM

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logman81

Been working the skidder few days now on the job and noticed that once in awhile the motor seems to be shuttering like it's miss fireing and loses power? Does it mostly when it has been idling fore a bit while felling the trees. When given throttle of half or more it seems to go away for the most part. Could this be a sticking injector? Any info would be good.

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SPD748

I'd say a lazy injector. Let it idle a bit then check the temp at the exhaust manifold where it bolts to the head. I use a laser thermometer. If one is cooler than the rest, you've found the problem.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

Ed_K

I put a saw wrench on the petal to keep it idled up a little to keep from loading up. Run it wide open,you aren't going to hurt it.Detroits run forever  ;) .
Ed K

logman81

I forgot to mention that their is also a ticking sound coming from the motor not sure if it is part of the same problem? I'll get one of those and check it out thanks a bunch. Hope it's nothing to serious!
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logman81

If it is a bad injector can I keep using it to finish the job if I take it easy? Or should I think about bringing it to a mechanic to fix before damage is done? :o What are the injectors in it n45's? If one is bad I might as well replace all and get the engine tuned up. If I wanted to get a little more hp out it by putting bigger injectors in it would this reduce longgevity and reliability of the engine? 8) Sorry about all the ?? but I want to make sure I don't do something wrong.
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SPD748

I've replaced a single injector where only one wasn't spraying correctly. I think they run ~$100 exchanged. As stated, if one injector isn't spraying properly or is 'dribbling' it will load up the air box with fuel. If the air box drains are blocked, this can cause major drama. As far as running it as is, I can't say. Whenever we've had a skipper, we've always replaced the bad injector in short order.

I agree with Ed, these engines really don't like idling.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

logman81

Spoke to a mechanic and he thinks it is a injector as well.
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logman81

Found a Detroit diesel dealership/service place the next town over from me so I will be giving them a call.
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SPD748

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

-lee
Frick 0 Handset - A continuing project dedicated to my Dad.

410 Deere, 240 Massey... I really need a rough terrain forklift :)

Sawing Since 1-19-2013 @ 3:30 pm
Serving Since 2002
"Some police officers give tickets, some gave all."

logman81

Just got back from checking the temp on the exhaust manifold and all are within the same temps. Ran it for a bit pushing and grading out the landing and it didn't skip a beat? Maybe water or junck in fuel? I work it tomorrow not letting in idle for long periods and run it at a higher rpm.
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lumberjack48

If i let it idle longer then 2, 3 minutes i set the throttle at about 1000 rpm. If i knew it was going to be longer then 5 minutes i shut it off.

The thing is if theres still a loud ticking noise, theres a problem up on the rack, most likely a bad injector. If i replaced one i replaced all of them, but you can replace one with no issues. Have the mechanic come out an set the rack on it, he'll know if theres a bad injector.

I ran N50's in my S8 IH 3-53, we also set the rpm up, to compromise for the extra fuel. Everybody that heard it run said it wouldn't run a week. We ran it 3 yrs before we sold it with no problems. Theres a thing about running N50's in a Detroit with the forestry during the fire season, because of throwing sparks out of the exhaust [spark arrester required]
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

I do agree it needs a tunning, but I will just have to run it the way it is and finish up on this job then it can be adjusted. I think I'm still a bit of a rookie with these two stroke deisels they don't like to idle long. What should it have for injectors n45? Will I gain a little hp with n50?
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Weezer

Don't know how your engine is situated in there, but Detroit valve covers usually jump right off. If you don't see anything obvious, start her up and use your finger  (carefully now!) to push down on the rockers / bridges. When the noise stops, you've found the offender. Look for busted valve springs too. I think the valve bridges had some sort of guide too, might have a sticker.  I wouldn't wait too long, I've seen what dropped valves do, it ain't pretty.  Its been years since I threw down the wrenches, but I always had a soft spot for D.D.s. I'd love to jam a 6-71 into my pickup just to hear her bark.

logman81

Still have a problem with the motor. It is getting worse, and today I noticed black liquid coming from the cyl head where the exhaust manifold is? It's shuddering real bad and have almost no power and it's doing it more constantly.
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Weezer

Is it coming from above/near the manifold or from a exhaust port gasket leak? If it's coming from the exhaust port DO NOT START IT! Check your oil level to see if it's high (fuel contamination). You may have lost an injector or a feed line. You risk a runaway or hydrolocking a cylinder.  You need to address this before it turns into a nice boat anchor.
Hope it's something simple and cheap.

logman81

It looks as if it is leaking where the  manifold connects to the cly head.
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logman81

I fear it is a injector or somthing along that line as the oil is above the fill line.
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mad murdock

Sounds like you need to pull injectors ASAP, drain oil and refill with new, as oil is diluted with fuel, I would also replace fuel filters before running it after installing overhauled injectors. If you try running it anymore you will probably junk out the engine.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Your probly right, just what I wanted to pay to have it haul back home again for more repairs! Time to call the detroit mechanics and see what is going on.
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snowstorm

 if the jumper lines from the injector to head are leaking it will fill the base with fuel.

logman81

I think it is most likely a fuel injector problem.
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snowstorm

Quote from: logman81 on November 10, 2012, 07:23:53 AM
I think it is most likely a fuel injector problem.
you have fuel coming from the transfer pump to the ports in the head thru the jumper lines to the injector. same way with return fuel to tank. any fuel leak under the valve cover and it ends up in the base

lumberjack48

Theres no reason to haul it home, fix it there
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

Wish I could but the repair is beyond my skills. Plus I'm afraid of getting water or dirt in the engine once it is opened up.  I have a nice warm shop with good lighting for the mechanic to fix it. How much hp will I gain with the N50 injectors? Will it smoke more than N45's?
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lumberjack48

The mechanic won't charge you anymore to come out to the job. It'll take maybe an hour or so to put new injectors and set exhaust valves.
I wouldn't even start your motor with out changing the oil, i'm hoping theres been no major damage already.

Not sure on hp gain with N50's, your mechanic should know off the top of his head how much you'll gain.

The thing is, is yours a 2 valve head or a 4 valve head. When i did this i had one of the best Detroit mechanic's in the country rebuilding my motor. I told him when i brought it in, i wanted as much hp as he could get out of a 3-53. The rebuild cost me $3200. this was 20 yrs ago, no corners cut. He said the motor was better than a new one, he smiled an said [She Runs] He estimated it 110+ hp, running 3200 rpm, we ran a straight pipe on it. With the Funk, 4 forward, 4 reverse, power shift it was a perfect match, fun, fun machine to run.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

Ok I'll give them a call, I did't know that it would take so little time to put new injectors in. I'm not sure on the number of valves, how do you tell? I didn't run it very long so I don't think thier is any damage. I will change the oil and fuel filter before starting.
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lumberjack48

The mechanic likes to have the valve cover off, theres no reason to pay him to take it off. All so have a good light available for him to use, just in case he doesn't have one, and some extra rags.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

Just an up date, got the engine cover off and the valve cover off. Found where the oil was leaking, a broken valve cover gasket. I didn't see any broken parts looked new not much wear. Also checked and smelled the oil and didn't smell any diesel fuel in it and it is at the same level when I did a oil change   a few weeks ago. Could it just be dirty fuel filters or water. I havn't changed them since I got the machine, I know shame on me. Still not sure what the ticking noise is but should be able to track it down with valve cover off. The mistery continues!
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logman81

I posted some pics in my gallery of the motor.
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beenthere

Pls post them here with some comment about them.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

barbender

Logman, I'd sure start with the fuel filters, and also make sure you have good flow from the tank. Check the easy stuff first, anything that has sat a while is likely to plug some filters when it gets fired up. I have no idea on the engine noise, are there any idler pulleys or anything that could have a bad bearing?
Too many irons in the fire

logman81

I'm going to drain the tank get new fuel strainer and filter and put fresh fuel in it. That will atleast elimanate any bad fuel or pluged fuel filters. As far as idler bearings their are no problems. I'll have to start it and try and find the noise with cover off. I'll keep you posted.
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logman81

 

  

 

Here are the pics of the cly head.
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mad murdock

Looks real clean. If the oil level isn't growing on its own, you probably are power limited because of being fuel limited(dirty filters, partial blockage at inlet from tank). Keep at it you will get it going right!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

240b

Looking at that pic reminded me of a problem I once had, the pump under the govner there has a square drive coupler which became worn it would slip under load but pump enough at idle..   I would first take and blow back the line to the tank with air and than pull the fuel back with a suction device thur all new filters.  filters are cheap. You could also try running it off a bucket of fuel placed on the roof of the cab hooked to the second filter, just let the return go back to the tank like it always does.   It does not take but a piece of pine needle to plug up the works.

logman81

Got to changing the filters and you would not belive the amount of junk in the first filter, almost totally cloged! The second was also dirty, I think thay may have been the problem. I ran it for a good fifteen minutes going through differnt throttle positions and seemed to run good. I 'll post pics later of filters.
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beenthere

south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

logman81

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beenthere

Then an earlier comment
QuoteWhen I first got my Pettibone the previous owner ran it on bio diesel and it's nick name around the shop was "FRENCH FRY"
may have something to do with plugging up your filters, and hopefully not your injectors.

There may be more residue growing in your tank from the 'bio' fuel
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

240b

I remember dumping some "biocide" in a tank of diesel once can't remember product name.  fill a filter with ATF and run it. that will clean up injectors too.

logman81

 

 

Here a pic of the nasty stuff in the filter! :o
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logman81

 

 

And another, not sure what it is but it's nasty.
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mad murdock

Definitely found yer problem!!  Now to yard wood! 8) 8)
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

240b

good lord what is that!   probably better hoover out your fuel tank too. 

Ianab

Quote from: 240b on November 14, 2012, 03:54:36 PM
good lord what is that!   probably better hoover out your fuel tank too.

Yeah, bottom of the fuel tank probably looks the same. :o
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

logman81

I think it might be stuff from the bio fuel. I going to put it back togethet after I make a new gasket for the valve cover and then run it a few days then change filters again.
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240b

Really, you should check out the tank. You may have not sucked up the worst of it yet and could go thur ALOT of filters before it clears up I've had a fuel filter plug up in ten minutes before.  Most tanks have a drain. just put it in buckets and let the crud/water settle out of the good fuel. If there is alot and it was mine I'd steam clean the tank. Who knows what the "bio fuel" did to the inside of the rubber hoses.  Like the old CAT fuel caps say "buy clean fuel keep it clean".

logman81

I may drain the tank if it happens again. Thier is a drain on the tank like you said. I'm hoping it's fixed I need to finish up the job asap.
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UN Hooker

 logman81
    You will end up steam cleaning that tank. Those three machines sat for 3+ years with hardly filtered FF oil, not bio-diesel. I had to hot pressure wash the tank on the 450TJ, that wasn't too bad to do because it had a large removable cover on the top of the tank.
   The C-5 I may just build a new tank, it will be easier than trying to clean that one.
         UN
Retired Toolmaker/Moldmaker
C-4 & C5D TF - 5500 Iron Mule - Restored 4400 Ford Ind. FEL ex Backhoe w/custom built boom w/Valby 360* grapple w/18' reach - 920 Cat w/bucket & forks w/clamp - Peterson 10" WPF - LT-15 - Cooks Catsclaw & Dual tooth setter - many Husky saws

240b

Yikes, cooking grease in there! I would take the WHOLE fuel system apart and clean/ replace whatever
looks ify.. Might as well do it all at once. Rather than be trying to cut wood and limp the thing along.
Maybe a radiator shop could boil it out. Why would some one put that in a machine? 

logman81

Ok guys I'm going drain the fuel tank through a paint strainer into buckets so I can re use the fuel as it is mostly good diesel now. I think the tank is factory welded to the machine so can't remove it. Their is only a fill cap no large lid to take off to pressure wash. All the fuel lines are in good shape and don't replacment. Note to every body never run FF oil unless it is very well filtered! I'm still thinking about selling it though finding out that this not the machine for me. I know I have put alot of time and $ into it but somtimes you have to. But will see what happens.
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logman81

Drained the tank and found a little more junk in it. Flush it with fuel a couple times and it's pretty clean. The rest will be caught by filters. Now to put it back together and pull wood!
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mad murdock

At least the upside for you is that you will have a workable machine to sell rather than one with issues.  Should make a sale go better for you than when you had it listed before.  Hope it works out for you!
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Thanks it's not a push to sell it but if the right price was offerd for it, Enough to buy differn't machine I would let it go.
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lumberjack48

Putting new filters isn't going to fix the injector problem. The fuel tank well be alright, it was a good sign when you could drain it. Change the primary filter after 2 or 3 days of running again or check it out to make sure wax or sludge is building up.
I've had the primary filter freeze up on the first freeze many times. This was my negligence's for not changing it before the first freeze. The steel fuel tank gets a lot of moisture in it over the summer.

Any parts store can get a valve cover gasket. It still needs new injectors, rack ran and exhaust valves set.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

I think the injetors are fine, I cracked open each feed line and could hear the engine change on each one. My prolem was lack of fuel flow by cloged filters. I'm going to run it a couple days then change primary filter and see what it looks like. I'll adjust the rack before the next job it will hold out till then.
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logman81

I got the new gasket and I'll have it pulling wood by mid morning! Can't keep the landowner waiting for his money any longer.
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lumberjack48

How did the extra oil get in the crank case ?
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

I thaught it was but I checked the oil and no diesel smell and the level is the same as when I last checked before starting this job.
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lumberjack48

What i'm worried about is that loud ticking noise, if injectors are alright it could be a exhaust valve out of adjustment or bad spring. If it drops a valve, major motor repair, it would be so easy to fix now.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

snowstorm

there is a small screen filter in each injector. the fuel lines you cracked will only have 65psi with the motor wide open only 10 psi or so at idle. the injector is what brings the psi up.....unit injector....go to the parts store and buy a oil psi guadge plunb it into the secontary fuel filter housing. then you will know if you have a fuel supply problem and when to change filters

logman81

Motor is all good, filters were the problem. Hasn't run this good since I got it. But now s new problem has risen it only has three wheel drive, back two are good but right front is not getting power. What could it be ? Broken axle or planitary? I have the worst luck I tell ya!
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240b

broken/weak spring in no-spin..   pick up front end with blade turn wheels by hand listen for clicking noise. "maybe" it will re engage itself with no load..  what axles are in this thing?

logman81

Ok thanks 240b I 'll try that and see what happens. It has pettibone brand axles.
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Ed_K

Ok guy's, I need some splainin the pict shows the exaust on the rt side of engine my 4-53 is on the left side.Is the pict reversed ?
Ed K

snowstorm

nope blower could be on either side. could also make it rh rotation by swapping the cam to the other side for use in a boat. twin screw boat turns one prop to the right 1 to the left. block could be turned end for end

Ed_K

Ed K

logman81

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240b

53 series motor share something like 90% common parts. 2-53 3-53 4-53 6v-53 8v-53 those are the ones I've encountered. clockwise/ counter clockwise rotation. who knows what else?

snowstorm

Quote from: 240b on November 16, 2012, 10:46:53 PM
53 series motor share something like 90% common parts. 2-53 3-53 4-53 6v-53 8v-53 those are the ones I've encountered. clockwise/ counter clockwise rotation. who knows what else?
i have heard there was a 8v53 also that there was never one built. for those that are interested. 4 53  means 4cyl and 53ci per cyl. along with the 53 series there was 71       92     110      149

swampbuggy


[/quote]  i have heard there was a 8v53 also that there was never one built.

I worked on 8v53's in boats for many years. It was popular in the 60's and 70's. A real screamer. Always sounded like it was gonna come apart at high ( 2800) rpm. In a boat they run them higher because the load rating is different than on land.

One other thing, on left hand engines it takes a little more than just moving the cam to make a right hand turning engine. 53 series and 71 series engines had multiple configurations, it seemed they built one different for every machine they went into.

I miss working on them, they were fun, although dirty, to work on.
They were a little noisy too, so you have to speak up now when you talk to me!! :D

Dan
If it was easy, everyone would be doing it!

logman81

Yeah thier loud I started wearing ear muffs couldn't take the noise any more. I'm to take a ride over to the skidder this morning and see if by turning the tire by hand I can get it to lock up.
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240b

I looked at buying a TJ 520 grapple skidder years ago it had a 8v-53 in. it was loud thats what I remember.

logman81

Well just got back and no clicking sound in diff, any thoughts?
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240b

did the dif lock rengage?  I'd drain the diff next. look for metal.  was it cold when this happened? Because, if the spring in the no-spin in weak enough cold gear oil will hold the no-spin "open". I've only had this happen in really cold weather thou.(below zero) Lighter gear oil solved this for me till the machine went down the road.

logman81

No it didn't engauge, I was able to spin it by hand snd no noises were heard. It's not to cold yet about mid thirtys. Should I pull the cover on the wheel and look at the planitary system?
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240b

Drop the oil in the pumpkin see if there is any metal.  When you pick the front end up w/ the blade and turn say the right wheel forward does the left spin backwards? I'd think if you broke a planet it would be locked up or you'd hear crunching nosies.  First check to make sure the oil level is correct before draining any. And you have power to at least one wheel when driving it?

logman81

The right front wheel spins free and the left wheel doesn't move. I am getting power to left one for sure as it skids when making a hard left turn.
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240b

huh,you mean the left wheel spins like it's pulling?  Is there a flat plate on the end the planet you can remove? If so pull it off and pull out the axle. There might be a threaded hole in the end of it for a bolt so you can yank it out. See if its snapped.

logman81

Yes left wheel is getting power, yes their is a plate. I have the manual for the machine I'll see how it is built.
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logman81

According to the manual both ends of the axle are splined. Not sure how hard it would be to remove axle but I'll look into getting the end plate off and go from there.
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240b

The axle should pull right out, pretty easy if the planets not binding on the sun gear. yes both ends are splined
I'd still drain the oil and look for metal first.

logman81

Of I'll drain oil and see whats in it.
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logman81

Ok thier is no drain plug on the axle to drain the diff oil, just a half inch pipe plug middle of the diff. I can hear a noise coming from the diff when I turn the wheel, kind of a clunk sound not a clicking sound?
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240b

there has to be a way to drain the oil. open the fill plug, does oil run out? if it does its full. it least you'll know there is oil in there.  I'd pull the right axle and see what you got.  maybe broken axle probably something in the diff. if you could drain the oil and see what is in it (bearings,pieces of cage,) you would have a better idea. take a pic of the under side of the front end..

logman81

Oil did come out the fill plug so it is full. I looked all over and couldn't find a drain plug. I think it may be broke at the end of the axle going into the no spin or the spring is broke. I'll take a pic as soon as I can. Either way it's going to have to come back home to be worked on in the shop.
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240b


logman81

I know they still make off road fork lifts. As far as skidder parts probly not?
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logman81

From what I know about them they were componant machines. They used parts from clark, allison,gearmatic ect.
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barbender

My axles are stampe pettibone, whether they actually manufactured them or not I couldn't say. Parts are still supposed to be available through Tiffin, I hope I never need to buy any though :o
Too many irons in the fire

mad murdock

Do you have Clark or Rockwell planetarys? They should be outers which are fairly easy to work on wherever the machine sits. Back in the day we snapped a axel shaft on our Franklin 132 forwarder, it was middle of winter and the skidde was about 150 yds from the logging road, we fixed it where it sat. IIRC we just had to pull the planetary cover and slip out the broken bits, clean out any shards of steel, slip in new parts, add gear oil, put cover back on and keep on skidding. Can't hurt to take the cover off just to see what's what, might not be too hard to fix w/o having to pay for a move. Good luck, you will get it going.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

My axle housings are stamped pettibone as well. I did get a parts book from them, yes you still can get some parts from them. I think the planitary may be clark, thier is mention of clark componants in the axles. Mad murdock would this process that you spec of work if the broken parts are in the diff?
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mad murdock

I think it would totally depend on what was broken.  If you just want to see what is what, you pull the outer cover, slip out the axle shaft and sun gear, look the palnet gears over, and you will be able to see what is what.  On some setups there is an inner clip ring on the axle that needs to be removed, that would involve pulling the pumpkin cover off.  On our franklin the axle just slipped out with the outer cover off.  No need to go inside.  If you got a parts book, you should be able to see the breakdown, and go from there.  If the thing is buggered up, you could slip the bad axle shaft out, and finish the job taking it easy, unless the machine doesn't have enough traction to go on 2 or 3 wd.  If it was me, I would at least pull the outer cover where it sat, and see what was what before I went through the hassle of dragging it back to a shop. there is a chance of it being a fairly simple fix.
Turbosawmill M6 (now M8) Warrior Ultra liteweight, Granberg Alaskan III, lots of saws-gas powered and human powered :D

logman81

Thanks mad murdock, I think the shaft may be broke where the splines are but not sure. I do have a parts book and it shows no clip on the end going into the diff. I have been working it the last couple days with three wheel drive and just keeping the skids small, and being carfull not to push it hard. The good news is I do have a friend with a clark 664 that is willing to bring it over to help finish the job up. This way I can truck mine home and figure whats going on.
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lumberjack48

Going back to the injector problem, i have to clear this up.
When ever i bought a used machine, the first thing i did is change the oil and all the [ fillers ] and check all other oil levels.
logman81 you gave us a good lesson on this. Just because its all painted up doesn't mean the basic maintenance has been done.
In this case i assumed the fuel filters had already been changed like a few other guys. Any issues with power loss or miss fire, the first thing you change are the fuel filters, this goes back a 100 yrs.
When i changed oil i also changed the primary fuel filter. [Every 100 hrs]

Have you pulled the hub off yet ? If its a broken axle and hasn't hurt anything else, easy fix. I've even seen guys weld them back together. I personally wouldn't keep on driving it. Pull it apart there to see whats going on in there.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

The very first thing I did was change the oil and oil filter and topped off all other fluids. The one thing I over looked was fuel filters, that was my prolem. It runs very good now no roll in idle and good power and no ticking noise. I have not pulled the cover yet as the job is finished and I will hauling it home to do the repair where I have heat and tools to fix it.

Precision Firewood & Logging

lumberjack48

I believe i learned one thing, i think the ticking was a injector collapsing because of no fuel pressure. I have never had that happen.
Third generation logger, owner operator, 30 yrs felling experience with pole skidder. I got my neck broke back in 89, left me a quad. The wife kept the job going up to 96.

logman81

Precision Firewood & Logging

logman81

So I may have a new home for the  pettibone, got a call from a guy in NY and is supose to be coming to look at it fingers crossed! I want to thank all of you that have helped me out fixing the old girl up it's been fun. I havn't fixed the axle yet guy is willing to test it like it is on the job before I fix it. Maybe I wont have to fix it, my price is firm weather I fix it or he does.
Precision Firewood & Logging

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