Hey all,
Seem to have a bit of an air leak on my Jotul F600. On windy days the whistling through the leak would almost drive one mad... It is on the end where the feed door is (see picture). Has anyone ever resealed a leak like this on a cast iron stove? Information out there is fairly sparse to say the least. I have noticed some cement type material fall off other parts of the stove recently. This stove was in storage for a couple years in an open garage.
Thanks
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45418/jotul-f600-stove3-v1-1024-1024.jpg?easyrotate_cache=1549888072)
Back in the 80's when this design of stove was hitting it's hey day, you could buy a tube of stove joint sealant in a stove supply store. I have a tube around somewhere from that period, that material was black and after it dried and you fired the stove it would cure out hard as concrete. Thinking back, I am pretty sure it was just dyed refractory cement in a squeeze tube, which is MUCH cheaper by the tub at any plumbing/heating supply, but that is white. You might want to keep that pretty stove looking pretty. Those little whistles can drive a man nuts! In the event of a chimney fire when the stove his a critical high temp, you may find more joints failing. Maybe it time to take it apart and re-do all the joints this spring? If one is going, the others may be close behind.
Man that is such a pretty stove.
Mitch. Our 13 year old Oslo is the same but slightly smaller.
The whole top plate along with the 'cook plate ' comes off with just a few bolts. I sealed the top panel with HD gaskets not furnace cement for a tighter seal..
The cast iron can move and deform. Rutland has black cement in a tube for sealing if you don't want to remove the whole top. Cut the nose smaller to stick into whistling hole.
But the real solution is to gasket the top.
Good luck, Jotul makes a nice stove, assembled here in Maine BTW.
P.S. What did you get it for ? Great find.
Quote from: Pulphook on February 12, 2019, 08:13:31 AM
Mitch. Our 13 year old Oslo is the same but slightly smaller.
The whole top plate along with the 'cook plate ' comes off with just a few bolts. I sealed the top panel with HD gaskets not furnace cement for a tighter seal..
The cast iron can move and deform. Rutland has black cement in a tube for sealing if you don't want to remove the whole top. Cut the nose smaller to stick into whistling hole.
But the real solution is to gasket the top.
Good luck, Jotul makes a nice stove, assembled here in Maine BTW.
P.S. What did you get it for ? Great find.
Yes its looking like I will have to pull the top off in the spring and do some investigating. I already replaced the gasket on the top plate before getting it started up. i am assuming you have had the top off yours? is it a fairly easy process?
What are HD gaskets?...just like a glass rope gasket that you use for doors.
I paid $1800 used...I think new around here they go for $3200 (canadian dollars)
Quote from: mitchstockdale on February 13, 2019, 11:31:18 AM
Quote from: Pulphook on February 12, 2019, 08:13:31 AM
Mitch. Our 13 year old Oslo is the same but slightly smaller.
The whole top plate along with the 'cook plate ' comes off with just a few bolts. I sealed the top panel with HD gaskets not furnace cement for a tighter seal..
The cast iron can move and deform. Rutland has black cement in a tube for sealing if you don't want to remove the whole top. Cut the nose smaller to stick into whistling hole.
But the real solution is to gasket the top.
Good luck, Jotul makes a nice stove, assembled here in Maine BTW.
P.S. What did you get it for ? Great find.
Yes its looking like I will have to pull the top off in the spring and do some investigating. I already replaced the gasket on the top plate before getting it started up. i am assuming you have had the top off yours? is it a fairly easy process?
What are HD gaskets?...just like a glass rope gasket that you use for doors.
I paid $1800 used...I think new around here they go for $3200 (canadian dollars)
The top comes off with only a few hard to find bolts; check the parts diagram for locations. PB Blaster may be needed to get them off without breaking.
"HD" are high density gaskets, usually black and tougher than standard gaskets for doors.
Replacing the top can be tricky and bulky so it is a job for two to place it correctly.
What a deal !!! Looks like it is one of porcelain finishes .
Ahh gotcha'
That stove in the top picture is not mine..I just grabbed something quickly from the internet when I was doing the post.
Here is an actual picture of mine...not that great of lighting to see it properly but you get the idea. :D
(https://forestryforum.com/gallery/albums/userpics/45418/LLLP5268.JPG?easyrotate_cache=1550078989)
Still looks nice. We can't load or use the Oslo front doors since ash spills out; poor design.
Check air leaks with a small "smoke pellet" used by HVAC and wood stove pros.